How to remove ignition switch ?

[JohnW63]

For the last year or two, my ignition switch has been sloppy and the ring around the key can move a lot without the key in. It also means the "Hey ! you left the key in the ignition !" bell goes with out the key in. I thought I would remove the switch and see what was up. I thought I had read a report inthe old SHO Forum that these could be tightened up. I struck out. It looks like I need to remove the tilt steering lever and somehow get the black ring off the ignition before I can remove the lower column cover. The tilt lever looks like it should unthread, but it wouldn't budge with needle nose pliers. I have no idea how to get the ring off the switch. I have the HUGE Helms manual for the car, but it doesn't cover electrical. That's a separate book.

Is there a good article on removing and replacing the ignition switch ?

 

[SHOZ123]

It is very easy actually.

Disconnect the battery.

Put the key in and turn to run.

Under the lock cylinder there is a hole that does not contain a screw. Push up in there with a small allen wrench. Then pull out the cylinder ring and all.

 

[projectSHO89]

If you want to disable the key-in chime, disconnect the single black wire that has its own connector (applicable to the 89, at least).

Steve

 

[n8rsk8r]

For the last year or two, my ignition switch has been sloppy and the ring around the key can move a lot without the key in. It also means the "Hey ! you left the key in the ignition !" bell goes with out the key in. I thought I would remove the switch and see what was up. I thought I had read a report inthe old SHO Forum that these could be tightened up. I struck out. It looks like I need to remove the tilt steering lever and somehow get the black ring off the ignition before I can remove the lower column cover. The tilt lever looks like it should unthread, but it wouldn't budge with needle nose pliers. I have no idea how to get the ring off the switch. I have the HUGE Helms manual for the car, but it doesn't cover electrical. That's a separate book.

Is there a good article on removing and replacing the ignition switch ?

Man change that!! I could seriously leave you stranded someplace where you don't want to be.

 

[JSMCPN]

Not even a big deal to fix. The cylinder is fine, it's the "bezel" that is loose. It can be re-crimped onto the lock cylinder, "spotwelded' with solder, or fastened by some other method.

Also, to get the lower plastic shroud off the steering column, the tilt-wheel lever DOES come off. The handle and rod are one piece, the threads are at the inner end of the rod. Mine was VERY tight but finally broke free, got stuck again after a few turns, then came the rest of the way off.

To remove the lock cylinder, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, remove the lower column shroud, put the key in RUN and look at the bottom of the lock cylinder. There is a little hole with a silver pin inside it that moves when you turn the key. In RUN, this pin is unlocked and can be pressed inward. Do this with a paperclip and GENTLY pull out on the key, the whole shebang will come out with ease. Now you can get the upper plastic shroud off if you need to for some reason.

 

[JohnW63]

How was this collar original attached ? Was it simply pressed on ? I don't see any spot weld marks. Would simple electronics solder really hold this ? It seems there would be some torque applied to this, each time you turn the key.

John

 

[redsho]

How was this collar original attached ? Was it simply pressed on ? I don't see any spot weld marks. Would simple electronics solder really hold this ? It seems there would be some torque applied to this, each time you turn the key.

John

John,
Did you ever get this problem fixed.... I have the same exact problem with my car. Let me know how you get the plastic part to stay intact.

Doua

 

[the on going reality of shopower]

ha my key broke yesterday in my 91 + the ring is part of the clyinder it can not be replaced of fixed i just replaced mine and too and took the old one apart. they are cheap to replace

 

[JohnW63]

Well, I am considering using some JB Weld on the outer part to keep it were it needs to be. If it doesn't work, I'm only out a few bucks. The inner cylinder is not what I need, as that slides out of the switch housing. It's the housing that needs to be replaced, if the JB stuff doesn't hold.

 

[SHOZ123]

I went to a local locksmith shop, bought a new cylinder and had them key it to my original key for $20. Installed it outside myself in less than 15 minutes. Don't waste your time with crimping or gluing.

I waited two years to do this, running my battery down many times in the process.

 

[JohnW63]

So, the cylinder IS attached to the part you turn to start the car ?!

Was the price of the cylinder part of the $20 ?

 

[SHOZ123]

Yes the cylinder and the key guard are one piece. Total of $20 with the re-keying. AutoZone has the cylinders for $20 but you will need to either carry around another key or get the new cylinder re-keyed. Although someone just posted about having a Ford Key cut for two different cylinders, one per side.

The ignition cylinder is different that the actual ignition switch which is actuated by the cylinder.

 

[JohnW63]

Was this an automotive locksmith or just the run of the mill lock store ?

 

[SHOZ123]

It was at an old fashioned locksmith. They have been in business for +100 years. Anything to do with a lock and they could do it.

 

[Rockledge]

Same thing with my SHO. I bought the replacement ignition cylinder from Ford and had my local locksmith re-key it to the original. Changed them out in less than 20 minutes. This quick fix cleaned up the "slop" that I was experiencing when twisting the key in the cylinder, and also eradicated the occasional "dinging" of the key-in chime that I'd get even though the key had been removed from the cylinder.

 

[Howdy_Doody]

Just got done doing this on my SHO. However, the Autozone cylinder did not work for me. I took it to a locksmith and they were totally lost. Then I went to a Ford dealer. He said you had to order the cylinder to match the 'shared tumber' between the door key and the ignition. He ordered the cylinder, about $50, cut the new keys, and I'm fixed now (the new lock looks to be a better design that won't turn).

You could go with the Autozone lock cylinder but you'll have a seperate key for the ignition.

 

[Rockledge]

...Then I went to a Ford dealer. He said you had to order the cylinder to match the 'shared tumber' between the door key and the ignition...

The parts guy at my local Ford dealer said the same thing, he even took my key and disappeared for about 5 minutes. When he returned he said he had had someone else look over my original key real good so he could confirm the right cylinder that was need. I assume they probably were taking "measurements" using the gauge mentioned in the SHOtimes article:

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...e=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=131

 

[SHOZ123]

If you buy a lock cylinder from a locksmith and he can't re-key it he isn't a locksmith but just a lock reseller. Any good locksmith can re-key the cylinder if you buy the cylinder from him.

 

[FamilySHO]

Could some one who has recently purchased from Ford post the part number and year SHO for which they purchased the cylinder. Just makes it easier to get a price quote. Shonut has a Part No. for a "illuminated and non-illuminated Entry Door and ignition lock set" . This is something different?

 

[Howdy_Doody]

The part number for my particular 1994 SHO was F3DZ-11582-E. I paid about $50 for it, and that included him cutting the two keys included to match my door locks.

However, as mentioned in the SHOTIMES article (recommend you read this), there are 5 locksets available, to allow matching with the 'shared tumbler/cut' used in the door locks. A Ford dealer should have the gage to measure your key and order the right lock. Mine did it right in front of me, it looks like a metal ruler with triangle slots to measure the key cuts.

Works awesome, no more key hanging up, no needless door chime dinging!