How do I know if my AC is R12 or R134a?

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Phokus

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My AC system is leaking somewhere but not too sure where; Ryan says the evap is leaking.

I'm not sure if the compressor is working or not either.

Can I just try to fill it with whatever it needs and see if it works and see how long it takes to leak out and find where it leaked?
 

sho'noffmtx

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most shops use a dye they put in that shows under a black light to find the leaks. If you have a slow enough leak you may not find it but yes you could...
 

clindahl

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If your signature is right and your looking at a 1994 SHO - it is 134a. You can get a 12oz can w/ dye in it and load it into the system if the leak is small enough and find it, but if the evap coil is leaking, your never going to see it unless you do some disassembly. A shop or good budy with a leak detector tool could confirm the leak in the evap pretty easily.
 

Phokus

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Where exactly is the evap? And this is what it looks like right?
G_27764G_CL_1.jpg


How much stuff do I need to fill it to full anyways?

I don't know if my compressor clutch is engaging; I've read somewhere where you try to poke it with something long and hard (broomstick... :snicker:)
Where is the compressor? I've never done this before and don't know what I'm looking for
 

JRA2000TL

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R12 fittings look like a tire valve stem. R-134a fittings look a little larger and have just a hole in the center if that makes any sense.
 

TYSHO

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How long have you had the car and how long has it been without air? It's natural for the system to slowly leak, requiring a little charge. If this system has never been used in your ownership, you might not even have a leak. It can be low on charge, causing the compressor to not work. It can also just be a loose electrical connection not allowing the compressor to come on. If you don't know the history of your air conditioning system, it's time to grab some pop corn and read up right here on the forum as much as you can about your system.

When the system leaks, it usually allows the oil to escape and attract dirt and grime on the line. If you find an area with this problem, it is most likely where you have a leak, if in fact you do have one. You can also check the bolts connecting the lines to the compressor, sometimes the work their self loose and create a leak.
 
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sperold

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Look this link over - http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=111064

Because the refrigerant has oil in it, when you have a leak, it is usually oily in the general area. I would not try to guess what is leaking (if anything) as every joint and union is a possibility and the fittings on the compressor are fairly leak prone.
Follow the thread and try to get the compressor to operate.
 

trainguy1989

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Don't mean to hijack the thread. My car is a 91 and has R134a fittings. As mentioned in this thread the compressor will not turn on if it is low on oil. In my 91, my compressor will never shut off while the AC is on. In all my other cars with the AC on the compressor will cycle on and off. Is my AC system having trouble building vacuum? I checked my oil level with my gauge on the low pressure fitting and said the system is full. Does my AC need to be evacuated and refilled fresh? Just a noob when it comes to AC systems. I apologize in advance if this post was inappropriate.
 

Phokus

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How long have you had the car and how long has it been without air? It's natural for the system to slowly leak, requiring a little charge. If this system has never been used in your ownership, you might not even have a leak. It can be low on charge, causing the compressor to not work. It can also just be a loose electrical connection not allowing the compressor to come on. If you don't know the history of your air conditioning system, it's time to grab some pop corn and read up right here on the forum as much as you can about your system.

When the system leaks, it usually allows the oil to escape and attract dirt and grime on the line. If you find an area with this problem, it is most likely where you have a leak, if in fact you do have one. You can also check the bolts connecting the lines to the compressor, sometimes the work their self loose and create a leak.

Hasn't worked since I picked it up; almost a month now.
Dunno how long the previous guy had it not working.
Ryan said he got it to work but said the evap leaked it all away

I will have to look around this Friday when I start swapping things

Look this link over - http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=111064

Because the refrigerant has oil in it, when you have a leak, it is usually oily in the general area. I would not try to guess what is leaking (if anything) as every joint and union is a possibility and the fittings on the compressor are fairly leak prone.
Follow the thread and try to get the compressor to operate.

I'm a total n00b. Where is the AC compressor though..
 

sperold

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Phokus - While you are fiddling with the car, the only way you know if the compressor comes on is it pulls down your idle speed when it engages. You can't see the compressor very well from the top and you definitely can't see it when you try to fill the system.
Everybody is a n00b when it comes to AC.

Trainguy.... does your AC work and cool down the car while the compressor is on?
 

TYSHO

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It's just best to read up and figure it out yourself or leave it to a specialist. The a/c system is not something you want to go fooling around with if you don't know anything about it. There's no way someone can get on here and tell you "exactly" what your problem is with what you are reporting back with.

For the record, you can see if the a/c compressor kicks on. When it is off, the clutch does not spin with the belt driven pulley. When it engages and turns on, you will see the clutch spin with the pulley.

The clutch is on the very outside of the pulley, as seen in this picture in the triangular shape. Not all clutches look the same, but you will get the picture. The guage you see in the picture is to measure the clutch gap. When the gap is too big, it will not engage.

merc_ac_gap_139c.gif
 

RonPorter

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1994 is definitely R134a

The usual leak spots are where the lines run under the battery. I've had three SHOs that leaked there.

If it wasn't working when you bought it, and have no clue as to when it quit, I suspect you are looking at a new compressor and a bunch of other stuff.

Dead a/c is the quickest killer of SHO sales prices, as it will be $1,000 - 2,000 to correct.
 

luigisho

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Depends on how bad the leak is. get some gauges on it, fill it and see if it holds a charge.
 

TYSHO

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This will make things real easy!

Go to the search link up top and click on the arrow pointing down, select "advanced search" from the drop down list, type in "a/c" in the keyword box, then type "rangerj" in the username box, and hit the "search now" button. Everything you need to know about your a/c questions will be in the search results, just listen to what "rangerj" has to say.
 

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