Hot Rear Rotors & Broken Bias Arm

[Rockledge]

After a fairly subdued run, I parked my SHO as usual and as I was getting out I thought I got a whiff of brakes. Sure enough, a quick inspection revealed that for some reason the rear brakes were HOT. Not glowing, but pretty darn hot. The fronts were nice and cool.

After climbing underneath a little more I could see that the rear brake bias arm was broken, it actually looks like the whole assembly under there is kinda shot. Nothing else in the area even looks scratched, so it's almost as if the thing had a sudden meltdown or something.

In reading through a few threads I can see that this problem is par for the course for many SHO owners and that there are even alternative repair options available (See: http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=61133).

So here's my question: SHOBros says this about their replacement brake bias plugs:

These plugs replace the rear bias arm which is broken or siezed on most SHOs. This results in nearly no rear brake line pressure.

Based on the above, shouldn't I have experienced diminished rear braking on account of the nonfunctioning bias arm/assembly? As noted, I seemingly got just the opposite.

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[Ishodu]

I would inspect the bracket pins the parking brake cables and the calipers too, it could also be two bad rear hoses. It wont be caused by the bias valve. As that valve limits flow to the calipers it doesn't cause them to hang up.

 

[Rockledge]

I hadn't thought about that...maybe I have two problems going on here...

 

[green91SHOPlus]

With the SHO that I'm having the same problems with in the linked thread: My father was driving it on the highway, and somebody had gotten his attention and told him his wheel was on fire. And sure enough, the rear-left caliper (which is the one slowly getting fluid now, while the right side is so dry it's knocking around on the caliper) was squeezing on the rotor, causing it to get so hot, it was burning the pad, causing flames to shoot from the wheel, hahaha. And it was that incident that convinced him to make me change the rear rotors and brake lines (I was 17 at the time, it was a big project to me), but the rear brakes were always still kinda funky. three LR and two RR calipers down the road, it's been ruled that that block is the problem. When I would press ******* my pedal after the engine swap about four weeks ago, the pedal would very slowly go down, even after a bleed on the front calipers. Slowly filling up the rear-left line. Anyway, all of this crappy "fact" filled rambling is supposed to convey my opinion that just as much as a collapsed line, the block could cause a build-up of pressure.

 

[frosho]

i used to have problems bleeding my rears, and eventually my RR got so hot that i had to stop 3 times within a 20 minute trip to hose it off because i was afraid all the heat was going to build up the pressure in my tire and blow it out. i took the wheel off and inspected the brakes and found that i had no pad left and was grinding on the rotor. i replaced the caliper since the piston had been pushed so far out and i didnt want to take any chances, but the same problem remained. after reading some threads i replaced both rear flex lines and my problem was gone. i went from getting next to no fluid out when bleeding it to getting it out too fast for any bubbles to come with it. since then my brakes have been stronger and my gas mileage has improved as well. if you have original or old flex lines, i would recommend replacing them just for the sake of replacing them. it worked wonders for me

 

[wood_e]

My bracket broke and I noticed my car sucked at braking. I even rear ended a car, not badly, but still. Got the bias plugs and all is well. You may have a siezed slider pin, sticking parking brake, or a collapsed line.