Fred,
There are several bearings in the fromt of the engine that will Squeel, screech, and/or ring when they are dry or nearly so.
The alternator has a front and rear bearing on its shaft. If you can find a local shop that rebuilds alternators, you can get the bearings and brushes replaced for $50 to $60. If not, a rebuilt alternator is about $125. J. C. Whitney sells a bearing replacement kit for some of the SHO alternators, but I do not recommend it.
The idler pulley, or pulleys, have a bearing. The pulley will sometimes resonate, like a bell, when the pulley is making noise. On the early SHOs the idler pulleys are very expensive to replace. $85 for the 4 ribbed belt, and $95 for the 6 ribbed belt (approximately).
However, search the archives for a discussion of these pulley bearings. It seems that the later generation SHOs use a different pulley, but the bearing is the same. The bearing is available as a replacement part for about $30. If this is correct, then you could press out the old bearing and press in the replacement into your existing pulley. Did I just suggest that someone search the archives? Shame on me!
The A/C pulley bearing will also make noise that will resonate through the pulley. On the early SHOs, I believe 89 through 92, the A/C pulley bearing is available as a replacement part (about $30). It is a KOYO bearing and should be available through an auto parts store.
You just press out the old, and press in the new. Please do not drive in a new bearing with a hammer! Press it in with a press, a vise, or a C-clamp. Support the pulley that you are pressing the bearing into, so as not to distort it. Use a socket, a flat washer, or the old bearing, to distribute the pressure being applied to the new bearing as it is being pressed in.
Bearing noise will vary with RPMs, or the load on the bearing. Which bearing is the offending one is sometimes difficult to pinpoint when on the car. If you remove the pulley and spin it up next to your ear, and hear a dry metal to metal sound, replace the bearing. A new bearing will not spin as freely, in your hand, as a worn or dry bearing, because of the grease in the new bearing.
As for the brakes and grease, I believe that the surface that the brake pads "ride" on (and I do not mean the rotor) should have a VERY thin film of grease on them. The pins the calipers "float" on should also be LIGHTLY greased. I think silicone grease works best for this. DO NOT get grease on the rotor or brake pads.
Good luck finding your chirp, squeel, screech, etc. These under-the-hood noises are rarely easy to pinpoint. rangerj