high pichted squell? need info

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fred79

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hi I just bought my sho tonight its a 95 mtx i got it for 3500 and from what i can tell it needs an oil change and some paint and body work the rearr quarter has the paint flaking off and rust adn the hood has a small dent that looks like the owner hit a rock at about 100 mph. so it look really good other wise but while i was driving it when i get teh rpms up around 5000, i get a high pitched squell it doesn;t last long but i can't tell if its the clutch slipping or if its a belt slipping. also it makes the same squell when you let off the clutch slow with out gas(i haven't drivien a clutch in a long time)but almost soundeed like a rattel like amybe teh motor mounts are bad. any info for diagnosis of either as a problem or just my bad clutch work.
 

DavidT

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I think I have the same problem. Except mine doesn't ALWAYS do it when the secondaries open (around 4000 rpms). Not sure what it is... My clutch is fairly new. :confused:
 

projectSHO89

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Here's how to test your clutch for wear:

Start motor. Put tranny in 3rd gear. Try to take off.

A slipping clutch will allow the engine to rev without the car going anywhere, a good clutch will cause the car to stall.

The squeal is probably an accessory belt. Chack and adjust tension if needed.

Steve
89
 

fred79

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I think i actually figured mine out that its either my ac compressor just found that it maky no coldy, or my brakes (best probability) because it stops if i hit the breaks so i either have a pad rubbing or the last mechanic didn't grease the calipers.
 

sdpatt

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Brake pads are designed to rub and you do not put grease on the calipers. Check the A/C compressor belt tension. It is tightened by loosening the 14mm nut on the idler pulley hub a half turn, then turning the 5mm Allen head screw on the tensioner bracket in the clockwise direction. Tighten the belt only enough to prevent the A/C compessor clutch from causing a "chirp" when it engages at about 3,000 rpm.
 

blackcurrant

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I tried the clutch test..pulling out in third gear...and my car just pulled away...on gravel..without revving it up all that much. What gives? (besides the clutch) eek!

<small>[ September 25, 2002, 10:03 AM: Message edited by: blackcurrant ]</small>
 

fred79

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aal htought brakes are supossed to rub they are not supposed to squel this usually happens becasue of built up brake dust or vibration between teh pad and the caliper rails this is the part of the caliper that is supossed to be greased were the brake pads rest on the caliperone rail on the top one on the bottom with out grease the pad can hang and damage teh rail and make noises. i will check the belt tension that may be it as i said my ac doesn't work but the squeal stops when i aply the brakes which to me sounds like a brake problem
 

DavidT

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Hey, sometimes when I come to a stop, I can hear a ringing sound from under the hood. It sounds like a muffled bell. I popped the hood yesterday (while it was doing it), and I am pretty sure it was one of my pulleys (or from that area). Anybody have experience with this?
 

jelloslug

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Here's how to test your clutch for wear:

Start motor. Put tranny in 3rd gear. Try to take off.

A slipping clutch will allow the engine to rev without the car going anywhere, a good clutch will cause the car to stall.
I did that on accident the other day, I wondered why it took so long to get up to speed :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 

rangerj

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Fred,

There are several bearings in the fromt of the engine that will Squeel, screech, and/or ring when they are dry or nearly so.

The alternator has a front and rear bearing on its shaft. If you can find a local shop that rebuilds alternators, you can get the bearings and brushes replaced for $50 to $60. If not, a rebuilt alternator is about $125. J. C. Whitney sells a bearing replacement kit for some of the SHO alternators, but I do not recommend it.

The idler pulley, or pulleys, have a bearing. The pulley will sometimes resonate, like a bell, when the pulley is making noise. On the early SHOs the idler pulleys are very expensive to replace. $85 for the 4 ribbed belt, and $95 for the 6 ribbed belt (approximately).

However, search the archives for a discussion of these pulley bearings. It seems that the later generation SHOs use a different pulley, but the bearing is the same. The bearing is available as a replacement part for about $30. If this is correct, then you could press out the old bearing and press in the replacement into your existing pulley. Did I just suggest that someone search the archives? Shame on me!

The A/C pulley bearing will also make noise that will resonate through the pulley. On the early SHOs, I believe 89 through 92, the A/C pulley bearing is available as a replacement part (about $30). It is a KOYO bearing and should be available through an auto parts store.

You just press out the old, and press in the new. Please do not drive in a new bearing with a hammer! Press it in with a press, a vise, or a C-clamp. Support the pulley that you are pressing the bearing into, so as not to distort it. Use a socket, a flat washer, or the old bearing, to distribute the pressure being applied to the new bearing as it is being pressed in.

Bearing noise will vary with RPMs, or the load on the bearing. Which bearing is the offending one is sometimes difficult to pinpoint when on the car. If you remove the pulley and spin it up next to your ear, and hear a dry metal to metal sound, replace the bearing. A new bearing will not spin as freely, in your hand, as a worn or dry bearing, because of the grease in the new bearing.

As for the brakes and grease, I believe that the surface that the brake pads "ride" on (and I do not mean the rotor) should have a VERY thin film of grease on them. The pins the calipers "float" on should also be LIGHTLY greased. I think silicone grease works best for this. DO NOT get grease on the rotor or brake pads.

Good luck finding your chirp, squeel, screech, etc. These under-the-hood noises are rarely easy to pinpoint. rangerj
 

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