Help with Y-pipe

[luigisho]

Ok. This is my first time dropping my Sho Shop Y pipe since I installed it last year. I'm having a difficult time accessing the front exhaust nut/stud. The bend seems to be in the way. I've tried every angle and I'm stuck . Anyone have a good method of getting at this? The rear ******, the catback ******, and one of the retaining nuts from the front are all off. I don't seem to be able to get the rear off the manifold so I could rotate the front and get any room. Help!

 

[sdpatt]

Universal joint and extensions. How about a 15 mm open end wrench?

 

[drivinhard]

Yeah the SS front pipe is a pain to work with. I got sick of messing around with them doing clutch's for folks (not much room for an open end or ratcheting wrench). It's too long (stud) for a short 3/8" stocket, and with a universal and deep socket, it's too long (hits the pipe). So what I did was took a 15mm deep socket, and chopped it so it's just a tad longer than a short. Make it just long enough to clear the stud, then get at it with a swivel. It'll clear the pipe barely.

I keep it in my box in the drawer with all my other "custom" tools

 

[luigisho]

Thanks guys.
Scott, I can get an open ended wrench on it but the range of motion is so small that you can't effectively turn the nut.

Mark, I don't have a fully equipped garage so what's an effective shade tree way to trim a deep socket or does someone sell one that's an inbetween length?

This design is really getting me hot. I wish I had a digital camera to take pics of this silliness.

 

[Dave Ladely]

that's why I always use stainless steel nuts and bolts on exhaust and anywhere else I think I might have to remove the part later. Cheap preventative from blowing one's own gasket! Sounds like ShoShop copies American engineering philosophy - to **** with the mechanic and soak the customer!

 

[luigisho]

Generally that's a good idea. That isn't my problem though. Actually the fasteners were much easier than I thought to remove in regards to rust/corrosion. It's the physical design (especially since I welded most of the "removable cats" pieces due to leaking) that's got me jammed up.

 

[smcallis]

I had actually considered drilling the subframe enough to accommodate a 3/8 extension. That way you could get a straight shot at the fastener. I let my mechanic do it instead. After I snapped the clevis pin in my universal.

 

[shojuan]

Crap, am I going to have these problems when I install my shoshop catless y-pipe?

Rick

 

[smcallis]

One other thing I thought of but dont know if there is room...How about a crows foot wrench?

 

[MeShoHorny]

I used to have the SS y-pipe and found it hard to get the forementioned bolts off. Best bet was a 15mm box wrench, takes time but it did work for me. When I installed my PP y-pipe I found that getting to the bolts was not a problem. For reference: Get the PP y-pipe in the future, much better quality as well as fit and finish.

luigisho, I know this doesn't help you out now but have at it with some extensions and a box wrench. If the bolts are not rusted it WILL come off.

 

[luigisho]

Thanks guys. It started to rain and I had to put the rest of the exhaust back together. Hopefully this weekend will be dry enough to get back in there.

Not enough room for a crows foot. I think drilling a hole in the subframe just big enough to fit an extention through and attach the socket on the other side is a really good idea ( for a bad situation anyway).

Rick get a look at the design. I have no problem with the performance of the pipe. This is the first time a problem has come along with this piece but, considering it has to come off for access to repair oil pan, clutch, and tranny, it's something to consider.