help with the following engine codes and symptoms 94 atx

[$GREED$]

94 atx

I have been having some trouble with the car it still seems to run but not as well as it should. I just got this car really cheap from an older man who had no idea what he had and he was fed up with the cel flashing and I am using it as an excuse to learn more about working on cars. SHOs force me to do the work or be broke so I am going with it.


My list of codes
engine off key on
111 (engine checks ok)
117 (Ect sensor low or grounded)
217 (Primary circuit failure ignition coil 3)


And the scariest of them all 617 (1st to 2nd shift failure) Although the bulk of the time it shifts smooth as can be probably about 95 percent of the time.



key on engine on

332 (EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly )
538 System did not receive "goose" test




any help in understanding what these mean and how to fix them would be appreciated
Also I should mention that the car somtimes feels bogged down under hard accelleration and that is occasionally acompanied by a sulfur smell which leads me to believe the cats a clogged. So is it worth it to gut em' or is it possible to splice in new cats on the existing y-pipe? I do not have welding equipment at my disposal If the cats are to be gutted do I have to cut them open or can it be done while still attached to the y-pipe.

Also if any of the questions have been answered before I am sorry I don't get to venture here that often.

 

[$GREED$]

codes

I know the goose test code 538 was due to me not performing a part of testing process. Although I am curious what part as I have never heard the term goose test.



Also I have oil in the plug wells and I am due for a 60k which is on my to do list

so while I am here what site sells the 60k video and rents shim kits?


also is it worth getting a helms manual (the really big book)

 

[Blue-By-U]

You can get the 60k video and shims from Josh at www.shonutperformance.com .

 

[$GREED$]

anyone?

 

[Zap]

Code Information!

94 atx
My list of codes
engine off key on
111 (engine checks ok)
117 (Ect sensor low or grounded)
217 (Primary circuit failure ignition coil 3)
And the scariest of them all 617 (1st to 2nd shift failure)

key on engine on
332 (EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly )
538 System did not receive "goose" test

Hopefully I can help you out a bit with these problems. The 117 code that you are seeing is either a result of a bad ECT sensor or if the engine was not properly warmed up before the test. Check the wiring to make sure it is properly attached, and for good measure you may want to replace it ASAP if you clear the codes, warm up the engine, and this comes back. It determines what temp the engine is running, and if low it will keep the car in cold loop, which can damage the cats, and therefore the engine. Buy the replacement sensor that is metal. If you do a search for ECT you should be able to find the information.

The 217 indicates that one of the coils on the coil pack is bad. New coil packs can be acquired from the classifieds, Al Fitz, or eBay. They should not run you too much. This is another dangerous item, as there is probably gas that is not being burned, which could damage the cats.. and you know where that is going....

The tranny shift may have been a one time event, but check the tranny fluid for starters. If it is burnt, you will want to have it flushed with new fluid. That will help keep the tranny healthy. To check it, remember that you need to shift through all of the gears before checking fluid, as that fills the TQ converter and other passages that aren't filled if it is left in park, and so you are misinformed about the fluid level. I believe there is a crosshatch area on the dipstick, and after spending a few seconds in each spot on the shifter, and back up to park, pull the dipstick, clean it, check it again, and see if the fluid level is in the crosshatch area. I think there are two holes in it, which helps you see the fluid if it is in good shape. BTW, it should be a clear red color, NOT dark or cloudy.

As for the KOEO - You did not follow the procedure, namely the goose test where you rev the engine to about 2-3k. This checks some of the components in the system. I am unsure if the EGR is tested at that time, hence the possible EGR code. You may also have a dirty EGR system, which can be cleaned up. I would worry about that after you fix the more serious items. You may want to try clearing the codes, driving the car around for a bit, and checking them again. Some of the codes may disappear if they were single event codes, and others if they were due to improper operating temp (such as the ECT).

Hope this helps!!