Help with clattering noise

[Tmade]

Ok, recently my Sho started making some clattering sound while I was driving it, it is an MTX. When I pushed the clutch in a revved it it sounded fine, but when the clutch is engaged is when it is making the sound. And it's not slipping.

A friend of mine said that I may need to put some fluid in it, but I cant find where the fill hole is located....anyone have any helpful tips??

Thanks,
T

 

[HopefulSHO]

Sounds like throwout-bearing chatter; but I'd go ahead and check your fluid level anyway. There's a fill plug on the drivers-side of the transaxle that a 3/8s (?) inch wracthet end (the square one) fits into.

When I syphoned the fluid out of my old MTX at 150k, it was a milky grey color. Nasty. Supposed to be bright red ATF.

 

[Tmade]

Ok, I'm starting to think it's my oil pump?

Here's my thinking, today I noticed while sitting at a light. The ground was level, that the oil light started flickering on and off. As I started to get going it would go out. I was about a quart low, so I put it in.
Now I was sitting at a light, and know my oil was full and it did it again.

I got home and pushed in the clutch and reved the engine and I heard that clattering again. I let the clutch out and heard the same clattering?

Could the oil pump make that kind of racket?
I also noticed today that when I start it sometimes, after it has sat for a while, right at start up I hear the clattering sound loud, then it goes away but comes back anytime I'm over 2400 rpms?

Thoughts?

Thanks guys,
T

 

[Yamaha V6]

Could be a rod knock.

Red oil light, or yellow? Yellow is level, red is pressure. If red, and you have the noise...

"SHOBOOM!"

 

[40BelowSummer]

oil light.....clattering...I wonder if it could be rod bearings?

But your best bet is to wait for it to happen again at startup and pinpoint where it is coming from exactly (clutch area, accessories, up top, bottom end etc)

 

[Tmade]

The oil light is the one on the left side of the steering wheel, not the check oil light.
The red one, so if its the red one and I haven't blown anything up yet, is there hope with replacing the oil pump?

 

[projectSHO89]

The oil pumps don't go bad very often. Usually, it's the rod bearings.

Steve

 

[40BelowSummer]

Yeah it wouldnt be a bad idea to change the rod bearings. Including bearings/gaskets/oil/filter etc it comes out to about $95. Which is cheap insurance. And can be done in half a day

 

[Tmade]

Ok, keep in mind I'm a rookie here. By rod bearings you mean the ones on the oil pump????
I can do most repairs myself, just ones I haven't done before I need to have a good idea of what I'm getting into.
I changed my radiator out myself a month or so ago and it went smooth, cleaned the IAB and replaced thermostat, I know beginner stuff, but if I know what I'm looking for I can get to it.

Any insight helps!!
Thanks guys your awesome help!!!
T

 

[40BelowSummer]

These are the connecting rod bearings....as in pistons. To get to them you need to drain oil, remove the Y pipe, starter, oil pan etc until you are to the crank. Take the connecting rod caps off with 2 bolts, remove the old bearings, and reinstall new ones with assembly ****. I could go on. I am going to do a write up soon and have lots of pictures.

 

[Tmade]

Cool, that's great info...if you could send me the pics!
[email protected] I can get up to 10 meg e-mail on that one.

I was looking on autozone.com and it appears that there are several sizes of rod bearings....now just figuring out which one.
A friend of mine, has the mechanics version of the sho manual and I'll ask him if he knows. He has a 94(2), 93, 91.

Thanks,
T

 

[Yamaha V6]

99% likely you need:

Clevite CB1435P, standard size. You would need the same pn with a 0.25mm, or 0.50mm, or 0.75mm oversize if the crankshaft has been turned. If your crankshaft has been damaged due to a spinning bearing, don't hold too much hope for extended long-life. Not saying it's not possible to ressurrect, but don't COUNT on it.

Edit:
PS, forget Autozone, you'll never get the bearings.

www.napaonline.com, or check out eBay - they're always for sale up there, at a VERY reasonable price.

 

[Tmade]

Ok, another question.....
I talked with my mechanic today and he is trying to find some pricing out, but if the bearings are bad, and I have to replace the crank shaft is that going to make the project all that much worse?
Or would it be easier just to get another engine???


Thanks,
T

 

[40BelowSummer]

If the crank is bad its probably easier to get another block IMO. They can be had cheaper than itll be worth replacing the crank IMO.