I've got problems w/ my SHO that I cannot figure out. The car had been dying intermittently. After some research on this site and others, it had the classic symptoms of a failed crank sensor. I had it at the Ford dealer prior to this and they had codes 335, 332, 327, 212, 214 come up. They recommended replacement of the ignition module, egr solenoid and dpfe sensor. I replaced the ignition module. After reading on shotimes that the egr codes usually results from a build up of carbon on the orfices in the manifold, I took it off, cleaned the orfices and replaced the plugs(motorcraft) while I was at it. I then had the crank sensor, water pump, and timing belt replaced. However, after replacement, the engine will now run fine until its warm and then acts as if the timing is way off and it will die. Upon trying to restart it sputters, backfires and will not start. After leaving it sit, my mechanic says it will start right up fine and then the same symptoms come back. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm at my wits end with this thing. Any help is highly appreciated.
Help-SHO Engine problem
- Thread starter Zimney1
- Start date
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Mike Kopstain
New Member
This could be a problem with the Camshaft position sensor. It is relatively easy to replace and also pretty cheap. You may have also received a faulty CPS. 
Run the codes again and lets see what you have.
Run the codes again and lets see what you have.
Slo-Sho
It wasn't me!
The DPFE sensor controls the EGR valve. Does your check engine light still illuminate? Is your car MTX or ATX? Was it the DIS module that they replaced? They may have failed to apply the heat sink compound on the backside of it, this may be causing the DIS module to overheat and stall the motor. The DPFE sensor is about $100 at your friendly FORD dealer and will need to be replaced if its bad.
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
The DPFE checks to see if the EGR valve is causing exhaust gas to be properly introduced into the intake by looking for the corresponding drop in vacuum. It doesn't actually control it. The DPFE is available at NAPA for 55 bucks.
Steve
89
Steve
89
luigisho
SHO Member
I see the code numbers now what do they refer to? Most of us don't have them readily on hand to cross reference. Help us help you. wink Sounds like cid or pip sensor. Did you clear the codes? If so which have returned?
I have not retested for the codes. The original codes are as follows: 335-dpfe sensor voltage higher or lower than expected. 327-dpfe output circuit below minimum voltage. 332-egr valve opening not detected. 212-idm circuit failure/SPOUT circuit grounded. 214-CID circuit failure. Could the timing belt have slipped or something? Would any of these dpfe codes cause the engine to run so crappy? I'll try and have the codes retested and post what I find out.
Rob94
New Member
There is a list of the codes and their meanings on SHOTimes.
Ok, here's an update. Had the codes reread and they came up the same. Checked the EGR valve operation and it is fine. Just ordered the DPFE sensor. Car now seems to be running fine, however, I drove it about 60 miles and the tach quit working for about 55 miles and then came back on. Engine never missed a beat. Now I thought I read somewhere that this is a sign related to the CPS sensor. I just replaced it. What are the chances it was defective? The water pump was replaced also. Does the computer ever go bad on these? I thought that was very rare. I don't know if I can trust this thing or not.
marcus_sho
New Member
I had the same problem, I cleaned my MAF and the problem has not returned, It never threw code for the MAF. Just something easy to check.
luigisho
SHO Member
Rob, I know where the codes are I was just thinking it's alot easier for posters to do the legwork to facilitate responses. wink
Zim, Did you replace the sensor yourself? If so did you check and make sure it was gapped properly (.030")? Tach irregularities do often point to crank sensor. Check the gap and maybe the connection to the pcm. The pcms can malfunction but you should rule everything out first.
<small>[ July 25, 2002, 03:57 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>
Zim, Did you replace the sensor yourself? If so did you check and make sure it was gapped properly (.030")? Tach irregularities do often point to crank sensor. Check the gap and maybe the connection to the pcm. The pcms can malfunction but you should rule everything out first.
<small>[ July 25, 2002, 03:57 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>
