Help removing timing belt tensioner stud

[RI-SHO]

I recieved the stud from Fred(thanks a lot), and I started around 12pm hoping my stud at least snapped half way. But the worst happened, it broke flush with the block and found a "regular" drill wont work to tap it out.

Now will I be able to access the broken stud with one of the 90degree angle drills? Or could a regular stud extractor work?

One more thing my A/C belt tensioner came out easy with the 5mm hex, but the rear(waterpump) tensioner slipped with the 5mm and its stipped a bit up top. Could I get a 5.5mm or 6mm hex and hammer it in to make the hole larger? I already removed it by taking out the surrounding 3bolts holding onto the block.

 

[rktmn]

Looks like you got a tough one. If the engine was outside of the car it would not be so dfifficult.

You are going to have to drill the stud out.

I will be hard to start the hole in the center of the stud, but it you can fit a 90 degree drill in front of the engine, use a centering drill bit to start the hole. These are short, stubby drills also knows as "combined drill and countersink" bits. They will start a hole, without wandering.

If you cannot find them locally, you can purchase these at a machinist hardware store such as MSC (800) 645-7270. A No.3 would be a good size, it measures 1\4" dia. by 2" aol. MSC part number is TU63769335. They come in a package of 5 and cost $4.38 ea.

Next time if you need to remove that stud, heat it with a propane gas torch for about 2 minutes close to the base and they run an ice cube on the stud to cool it down kwickly.

The heat wil cause the stud and the area aoud the stud to expand, and the cold on the stud will cause it to contract realeasing its bite.
You will be able to remove it easily without damage using a set of locking pliers.

Good luck.

Jose

 

[dduell]

I fell your pain...the same thing happened to me a couple of years ago. A right angle adapter will fit, but regular drill bits will hardly make a dent (will just burn up). I got some high speed bits and they worked OK and eventually I got an extractor bit in and got the stud out. Start out small as previously noted so you don't wander and drill into the block itself.

 

[RI-SHO]

So will going in with just a stud extracter bit not be enough to drill into the middle of the stud? I am starting with a 1/4" bit, and I will be buying a full right angle drill not just an adaptor for a regular drill.

Found a few DeWalts for good prices, think i'll go with them. But just wanted to know what specifics bits I would need? All I have so far is the 1/4" stud extractor, would 1/4" high speed bit work best or smaller/larger? I am new to all of this so I need all the help I can get.

 

[rktmn]

RI-SHO, don't use a regular 1/4" drill bit, use one of these.

Click on this link.

http://groups.msn.com/JoseAFernandez/atxshoswaptomtx.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=169

It is called a centering drill bit, it has a 1/4" shank but the tip comes to a smaller point. These bits will not deflect or wander as you start drilling.

 

[RI-SHO]

So when I go buy the drill bits I ask for center drill bits with a 1/4" tip and 2" aol? Once I drill in correctly do I just go at it with the regular bolt/stud extractor that has a 1/4" tip and drill in reverse at the highest RPM or slower?

 

[rktmn]

The centering drill bit is only used to start the hole. The size I recomend you use is a #3 which has a 1/4" shank (or body), but the tip is about 1/8". Look at the photograph on the link on my previous post. It actually has two tips, one at either end.

Once you start the whole as close to the center of the stud as possible, use a 1/16" drill bit to bore about 1/2" deep. Then go to a larger size, perhaps 1/4". Try to drill in staight so you do not damage the threads on the block.

Then fit you bolt remover in the hole with the drill in reverse and turn slowly. I prefer to slap the trigger of the drill.

 

[RI-SHO]

Will something like this fit:

??

Will a store like Sears or Lowe's have all the bits you mentioned above? Or will I have to find these here there? Thanks a lot for all of the help, i'm just hoping it comes out smoothley.

 

[rktmn]

there might be enough room to fit a 90 degree drill and short bits, but I am sure that it will be tight.

By the way I meant to say a 1/8" drill bit, not a 1/16" to start.
The centering drill bits you will have to find a store that sell machine shop equiptment and tools. If not you can get them from MSC.
Their web site is

www.mscdirect.com

 

[RI-SHO]

Ok I am on there site, should I order a shorter bit that is less than 2" long?

I am also looking at there drill bit sizes, and found 1/8" and 1/4" but there $15each, is this correct or do they have less expensive ones on there?

BTW do you have AIM?

<small>[ December 14, 2002, 11:04 PM: Message edited by: RI-SHO ]</small>

 

[rktmn]

You do not need to buy the most expesive drill bits. You can pobably get a set of 10 drill bits at sears or home depot for under $15.00. They should be high speed steel if possible. The centering drill bit you will not find at sears or home depot, that is why I recommended MSC. Check locally in your yellow pages for a "machinist supply" store. They will have the centering drill bits. They will also have stub length drill bits and you can buy these individually. You do no have to buy the most expensive. I have used cheap imports and they work OK, they just don't last. Anyway always use low speed when drilling and apply oil to the bit to help it cut better.

 

[sdpatt]

Another option would be a flexible shaft extension for your regular drill. I picked up one of these at a tool show, but I imagin you can find them at most hardware stores or places like Harbor Freight or Northern Tools. Much less cash outlay than a new drill.

 

[RI-SHO]

I already ordered the bits from MSC came out to $10 total shipped UPS 2day. Also ordered a DeWalt 14.4V reversible/clutch right angle drill next day air from eBay for $55. Hopefully all goes well when I go attempt this at the end of the week.