HELP, My SHO is dead after manifold removal and tune up...

[GreenTaurusSHO]

Hello everyone... I gots a problem.... I took the intake manifold off my 94 to change plugs and wires, and ended up having to replace the valve cover seals due to oil in the plug wells... and the oil didn't get sucked out and went down in the cylindars... (I know.... it was a mistake, and you all said it should be fine, just suck it out of there somehow which I did). Anway... we put the intake manifold back on... it didn't go real smooth, and the brace in the back that contains the ground strap gave us trouble and we had to keep moving around all those wires back there, but we never unpluged them and we made sure nothing was "amiss", being disconnected, strained, sressed and what not... everything looked good and in order. All connections were properly connected within the intake manifold. We hooked up the battery and turned the key.... nothing... just barely a crank.... dunno why.. i guess it was just the oil in the plug wells... (what was left of it anyway). Then the car cranked and the crank sounded awful.... i'd compare it to how an electric start lawnmower cranks when you try to sart it... a real "sressed" whining crank...but then the car fired up and all kinds of smoke from the cylindars were coming out of the exhaust... it ran for about 45 seconds and died...

We began the investigation..... there was spark and of course air, but no fuel, there was no pressure in the fuel rail. When you turn the key, you could not hear the fuel pump prime.... by reading the forums, it was said to check the CCM under the fan shroud... it faild the test .... no voltage on pink/black on key on, and no "partial voltage" from pin 10 the yellow one. So to confirm the CCM was the problem, we hooked up the fuel pump straight, by disconnecting the intertia swtich and jumpering the fuel pump side of the harness and touching it to the battery. The car started and ran fine..... so we took the CCM out and cracked it open and it stunk like burnt electronics... so we found a used CCM from a yard... i received it and the replacement looked worse appearance wise then the one in my car... I didn't have a good feeling when I saw it, but i figured it'd do the trick..

So we put it in, re connected the battery, which was a little drained .... and turned the key to hear the fuel pump.... nope... the replacement CCM made a buzzing sound..... so we let the battery charge up a little more, and we turned the key and the Fuel pump came on just fine and the car started.....

So it's running.... and we disconnect the battery charger.... the car dies....... so we hook the charger back up and the car starts but has trouble idling .... like it's being "starved" for fuel... check engine light flashed 2 times but didn't stay on..... i took my foot off the gas, and it died...... turned the key again..... and no fuel pump.... but the pump works if you hook it up straight through like I mentioned above... so givng up hope, i called AAA and waited for the truck and the car is now at the dealership... and i'm petrified and feel mentally sick and unconfident that either I messed somethign up with the car and it will never run right agaiin....

Any thoughts would be gratiously accepted....

And for the record, my tune up i performed consisted of... new motorcraft plugs and wires, new intake manifold gaskets, new valve cover seals and plugwell seals, new IAB and 2 new 02 sensors.....

-Adam

'94 MTX www.geocities.com/greentaurussho
'65 Studebaker www.epix.net/~ajgreen
AIM: GreenTaurusSHO

 

[Bizzy]

Did you get an IRCM with the same letter code on it? If not that could be the problem. I don't know if putting a different letter code one in there could cause other damage, I've heard mixed opinions. Some say it can, others say it can't. Did you check to see if the inertia switch was tripped by chance?

Hope you get it worked out soon.

 

[GreenTaurusSHO]

Inertia switch is fine and not tripped.. and the replacement CCM was a direct match part number.. code D and part number F3DF - 12B577-AA

 

[lobo2112]

i just finished an engine swap... some of the parts were from different years of sho. not all ircm/ccm 's are the same. on my project for example i had a ircm and wiring harness whith different years... one of the connections that was noted as a power on one's wiring diagram was noted as a ground on the others. big big difference. make sure its from the same year car or download wiring diagrams for both your car and the donor car to be certain.

 

[Bizzy]

I totally feel your pain. In all honesty, if your dealership is anything like the ones near me I wouldn't take it to them. Because of my current problems I called two of the most local ones to me, one happens to be the 2nd largest in the state of Michigan. They told me that they had no breakout box or other test diagnostics type machines and that they'd start by running the codes, which I suggest that you do by the way.

I had already told them that I had no CE light, so I asked them how they would check for codes if there was no CE light. He was like, "Well, we'd just have to go through it wire by wire then." So I asked what the labor rate would be and he told me $76 an hour. So I'm thinking to myself......why on earth would I take my car to a dealer and pay them to do exactly what I'm doing? Nah, I'll do it myself.

There are wiring schematics in the Electronics section that you can take a look at if you need them. If you don't see one that you need get in touch with me and I can probably supply you with one. That is...if you decide to do it yourself.

Good luck with it all.

Edit: Retrace your every step when doing the work. Check every harness you touched, check all the connections and jiggle every splice to see if it makes any difference. You might also consider running a jumper wire and bypass the inertia switch just to see if it makes a difference.

 

[AutoSHO]

Sounds like it could be as simple as a bad battery connection and/or a bad battery or alternator.

 

[Grifter]

Sounds like it could be as simple as a bad battery connection and/or a bad battery or alternator.

Very possible. I drove to school one day with no problems at all. 6 hours later school let out and my SHO wouldnt start, nothing, no power. Within that time the battery connection became so corroded that it wasnt making a connection.

 

[SHOman24v]

there are 3 things that can be wrong with it

1. Equipment faliure
2. Operator error
3. Loose nut behind the wheel