Help me remove my rotors!

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ChrisR

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Please, I need help on the procedure for removing the rotors. I have the caliper off and the anchor thing off, but can't seem to get the rotor off. Do you just unscrew the thing in the middle of the rotor? Because I tried like **** and it wouldn't unscrew.

And now to top it off, the guy gave me the wrong pads! :mad: :mad:

I was hoping this would be an easy procedure.
 

smcallis

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Sometimes I've had rotors sieze on to the hub. Application of heat, beating with a rubber mallet and sometimes a big wheel puller is required. After wrestling with my wife's Eclipse rotors twice now, I reinstall all rotors with antisieze compound between the rotor and hub. Oh BTW, the rotor is not bolted on in any way.

<small>[ July 06, 2002, 07:41 PM: Message edited by: smcallis ]</small>
 

ChrisR

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ok, I tried the rubber hammer, and got no where. I have attatched a pic of my progress. The arrow is there because I'm not sure if I should be taking that peice off or not.
Mvc-035f.jpg

I hope I can get this done tonight :mad: :eek: :( :confused: eek!
 

olympic

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The part your pointing to is part of the rotor and comes off wit it. You have everything off that needs to be off so the rotor is just stuck on the studs or the center bore. Try a little WD-40 on those and use a real hammer from the back of the rotor. Give it a few whacks and then turn it 1/4 turn and hit it again. You don't have to worry about damaging the rotor since your replacing it anyways. Use a wire brush on the hub around the center and studs afterwards to clean the rust off.
 

pjtoledo

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You're on the right track. Actually, the arrow is pointing at where you want to hit the rotor. The problem is (usually) rust around the center hub,,that's the 3" diameter circle. I usually smack,,not wallop,, the hat surface between the lug bolts. A little tapping in an attempt to rotate rotors may also be needed. That big nut in the center,,,it is torqued to about 150 ft-lbs or so, no need to mess with it. Good luck, us "rust belt " guys endure problems like this almost daily.
Perry Toledo,Ohio
 

Bizzy

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Just as Perry said...except use PB Blaster. That's the stuff you need for jobs like this. Keep trying...but to be on the safe side...don't damage the rotor. Just in case you need to take it somewhere. That same thing happened to me and I was unable to get the rotor off and had to take it in.
 

ChrisR

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Thanks for the replies. Well I never actually got it off, I was afraid I was going to damage something by hitting it. I guess I just like my car too much to hit it :rolleyes:

I guess I can always replace the rotor later, now that I know how to.

However, I do have 1 more problem. After I got everything put back on, and took a test spin. The pedal is really mushy and I can push it all the way to the bottom. I refilled the tank with brake fluid, so I don't get it. Upon further inspection, I noticed it would drip out fluid on the pass rear side when the brakes were applied. Did I forget something? I tourqed the hose end down tight.
 

Hubes

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hey chris. i may be of soem help. mny dad and i did my rear rotors on the 4th. is that a frotn or a rear and is gen 1 rotors the same as gen 2
 

Hubes

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if it is the rears and they are the same as a gen 2. my dad and i had a hard time taking off my rear driver's side rotor. the bolts were stuck. after we took off the caliper, there were still 2 bracket like things kind of look like hooks. the bolts (2 of them total)for these are located behind the rotor. i believe they are size 14mm or 15mm possibly 13mm. anyways these bolts can be unscrewed and then u can pull the rotor right off. we had a hard time gettign the bolts out, wd-40, air gun, and finally soem good old heat got it to loosen. to collapse the piston i reccomend using a univesal brake caliper tool, it made it easy. real easy. now that i look at the pic, it looks liek the front. anyways i hope it helps. on tuesday night i will be doing my front pads, the rotors look ok, but we will determine that on tuesday night. good luck!
 

ChrisR

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Hubes:
hey chris. i may be of soem help. mny dad and i did my rear rotors on the 4th. is that a frotn or a rear and is gen 1 rotors the same as gen 2
not exactly sure what you are saying, but I'm talking about the rear rotors from my gen 1 1991. I'm not sure if they are the same rotors as the Gen 2.
 

Hubes

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ooops i should have hit edit. well the other day (july 4th) my dad and i installed new rear rotors and pads on my gen 2. i wasn't sure if that was a pic of a front or rear rotor. after i posted it looked like it was a front rotor.
 

olympic

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ChrisR:
However, I do have 1 more problem. After I got everything put back on, and took a test spin. The pedal is really mushy and I can push it all the way to the bottom. I refilled the tank with brake fluid, so I don't get it. Upon further inspection, I noticed it would drip out fluid on the pass rear side when the brakes were applied. Did I forget something? I tourqed the hose end down tight.
It sounds like you removed the brake line from the caliper. First you need new copper crush washers. They are not reuseable and will leak if you use them twice. Then you need to bleed the brakes on that corner. That should fix your mushy pedal.
 

ChrisR

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I see. The new calipers did come with new washers, so I will put that on. Except I thought that's how one would bleed the brakes. Maybe I was looking at the wrong thing. I saw the directions on SHOtimes, and followed them (or I thought I did).
 

luigisho

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If you are bleeding the brakes remember to raire the rear wheel assembly to open the proportioning valve. Also I would bleed that wheel and probably all the others also to be sure all the air is out.
 

ChrisR

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I think I am just going to take it to a shop and say can you bleed all the brakes. Hopefully they won't charge an arm and a leg, and a lot of money.
 

ChrisR

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Well, I took an extended test drive, and found out that I didn't even fix the problem. And when I turn to the left the pass side rear brake makes a really bad CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK sound. Also when I put on the brakes harder and harder, the steering wheel turns more and more to the left, almost a quarter rotation (90*). I guess the saga of me trying to fix something on my car, but failing everytime continues.

Thanks anyway for the help everyone.
 
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