Head gasket / cleaning..

[roswell998]

I don't know what type of valve spring compressor you need.

Hopefully someone will post that info and maybe a link with more specific details. Try searching the forum and maybe there is a step by step procedure posted.

Just be careful and don't hurry this task.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well I've seen the tools that are needed, but I guess I just don't understand what you mean by lapping. Im an electrician, just a part time mechanic.

 

[roswell998]

Response from experienced SHO valve grinding experts will be appreciated

Well I've seen the tools that are needed, but I guess I just don't understand what you mean by lapping. Im an electrician, just a part time mechanic.

Lapping is when you put a grit compound between two mating metallic surfaces and slide them together. It grinds out the little hills and valleys on each of them so that the surfaces mate cleanly. On valves, you remove the shims, bucket, keepers and springs so that the valve can be removed. Then place a small amount of compound around the valve seat where the valve contacts it. Insert the valve stem back into the guide and take the wooden tool with the suction cup on the ends and place a suction cup on the flat face of the valve. Spin the wooden shaft between your hands so that the valve rotates in its seat. This will grind both surfaces slightly so that a perfect fit can be obtained. However, if the valves are burned, it won't cut away burnt gouges etc. In fact it is a good idea that after valves have been machine ground to lap them in a little bit with fine compound for a perfect fit.

Care must be taken not to use too much compound. You don't want it to get on the stems and in the valve guide.

ALSO..............all compound and grit MUST be throughly cleaned before reassembling the head. If the compound gets into bearings or the cylinders it will ruin them and the rings.

ALSO, ALSO...........Repeating myself, but I would definitely put new valve stem seals in when this job is done. Simple job to do when the valve is removed anyway but BIG job to do at a later date.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Nice write up! I've been busy trying to get this old gasket stuff off still, what a pain that is. Had to order the blue roloc disc's tho, and I only have 1 peice of something that is compareable to that. I got a fresh case of beer for it tho, and will be working on this stuff probally all day tommorow. It sounds like my best bet would be to do all that then take it over to my buddy's house with his parts washer and clean out the entire head? Reguardless, sounds like I have a lot of work to do..

 

[roswell998]

Sounds like a good idea to use your buddies parts washer after you finish.

NOTE..........this job will probably require a special valve spring compressor because if I remember the springs are down in machined wells in the head. Also, you don't want to scratch the sides of the wells because the shim bucket slides up and down in it.

ALSO........after cleaning with a parts washer, you will want to flush out the cam bearings with oil. Some would recommend removing the cam bearing caps, dry any solvent out of the bearings and coat with assembly ****. However, in my opinion it is best not to break the bearing cap bolts so that is why I would find a way to force oil through the bearing until all solvent is flushed. You don't want to start the engine with the cams bearings running dry.

ONE OTHER THING..........I'd leave the old original valve stem seals in place until after lapping, then remove them, clean and dry the head and then put in the new valve stem seals.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well you've given me a lot to think about, and do.. Maybe I'll get rid of his solvent, and put some 30 weight in the parts washer.. ok so I'm just playin around now.. But I was thinking the same thing about the valve seals.. somewhere I think I remember hearing that the solvent is BAD on those. THanks again man! No wait.. big thanks..

 

[roswell998]

Now that I think about it, with no rocker arms but with direct lift cams, the cam shafts have to be removed to get to the valve springs etc., so use assembly **** when reassembling after cleaning.

 

[Eric VerValin]

LoL.. I didnt even realize that when I read it.. You must work on a lot of small blocks.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well.. I called the best machine shop we have here in town, just to see what they would say, and he said they could clean them up for $10 a peice, and they wouldnt touch the valves. Also they said they would replace all my valve seals for about $150. I'm almost thinking about having them do that, then adjusting the shims when i get them back, because they said they normally grind the tops of the valves to bring them into spec, but I told him that I didnt want that. Should I have them touch up the valve seats? And how much would that throw off the shims? I told him I planned on doing the valve adjustment at a later time after it is instaleld on the block.

I guess I'm just very nervous here when it comes to these precious heads and I'm nervous that I'll mess something up, and would rather have someone that is a professional tear the entire thing apart, **** it, and put it back together. The valve adjustment seems pretty straight forward, but the rest just makes me nervous like I said. I would love to do this by myself, but just nervous that I'll mess something up.

 

[roswell998]

At this point I'd recommend that you just have them cleaned up for $10 each unless you were having valve problems or valve stem seal leaks before. You will probably be good for many many more miles. That said, in my case I'd lap the valves and replace the stem seals just for grins since I have ridiculous patience (sometimes!) and would probably even tackle working on a Rolex watch (also just for grins).

However, I would definitely check the gap on all the cam to shim clearances. If they are out of spec I'd rent a shim kit and perform the adjustments. If there is a SHO owner on the forum living in your area that is experienced at valve adjustments, work out some deal with them. Believe me, the best SHO engine mechanic is an owner and member of this forum.

GOOD LUCK!

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well, I don't really know how to tell if they were leaking before hand. I will say this tho, I noticed a lot of carbon build up on a couple of cylinder heads more so than another , so I'm assuming one was leaking??? They said they could pressure check them for me to make sure the valves were seating well, or good, but it wouldnt tell them if the guides were bad, and I can't see them being bad, but they had no problem with replacing the seals when they had it there, I'm assuming they can get the seals, but if they are more than our wonderful sponsors, I'd rather buy them and hand them to em, as I still have a few things to buy yet.

And yes, I want to adjust my shims after this is all said and done, and would love it if anyone around here wants to come and help me out on that! If anyone around here wants to help, feel free to PM me to set something up.

Work on a rolex? you must have a lot of patience! Thanks again!

 

[Brockieb71]

Is there anyone in the Tampa area that will check and adjust my shims is needed? I have the heads off the car.

 

[RAYJAY]

Blue Roloc.

bingo ........LOL


Eric I would personal get the heads shaved a tad ( just enuf to get rid of the ring marks from the previous head gasket) you will get a better seal that way and Roloc the block really good . I did my 1993 head this way and got a great seal. also are you going to replace all of the valve seals while your there ???

Jeff and if your head looks like this its shot LOL

Jeff