Have coolant leak under/behind throttle body...

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needaQuaife

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looked and see / hear hissing and dripping from under and behind TB and under snakes. what is it and does the intake have to be removed? My local mechanic said it does. I have to fix it this weekend.
 

Phoenix

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Probably not , most chances its related to this (which does NOT requires intake removal)

-IAB spacer (coolant goes in)
-Throttle body
-The water passage that houses the thermostat and bolted to both heads.

Thats what I can come up at the moment.
 

nothingtoseehere

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Pressure test will tell you exactly which hose. I agree with Phoneix as to what it likely is. Intake does not need to come off, but removing the TB, running the bypass and replacing those few coolant lines would be beneficial. And cheap.
 

shobote

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Depends on where the leak is. Could just be the hose to the TB, which you can just remove and do the TB bypass anyway, as this will lower intake temps. No need to remove the intake if it is just a hose leaking or loose.
 

needaQuaife

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I removed the throttle body & there is a 2" piece of hose between the thermostat (iirc) & the rear valve cover area. I have to run to a art show, here in Tijuana, Mexico, so i left it half way done. But, I want to thank you all, since you gave me the hope it was sitting right there and to go look. I am going to cut 2" off the upper radiator hose, since I do have extra there and it is a very short piece. post tommorror if it is a fix.
 

needaQuaife

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what is the sensor for on what i believe is the heater core hard pipe near the firewall. Is it needed? Which is one, that is leaking. One end is on rear head or block and other end is next to thermostat.
 

itwonder

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It is the CELO switch. It prevents the heating system from blasting you with air until the car warms up a bit. If the rubber hoses attached to that metal pipe are leaking, it is an easy fix. The factory rubber hose is attached to the pipe with a metal crimp sleeve. Cut that crimp sleeve off, and then you can pull the old rubber hose off of the pipe. The rubber hose that goes from the pipe to the engine block is a larger diameter at the block end than the pipe end. Use a reducing hose, Dayco 87612, NAPA 10080, or Gates 18060...readily available at any decent parts store. Secure with worm clamps. The rubber hose at the other end of the metal pipe that goes to the heater core is either a Gates 21740or a Gates 21742...can't recall which is for this pipe and which is for the other metal pipe.
 
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needaQuaife

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oh, ok , so if I have no heater core or a/c or blower... I dont need that switch. Can I just plug these or must I keep them connected with the hose for flow reasons?
 

needaQuaife

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ok, I took off the MAF, throttle body and brushed off all the deposits on flanges. Then replaced the 2" hose from under rear head area, on block to thermostat housing and removed hard line heater with sensor and replaced with 1 length of hose. flushed the cooling system and added fresh coolant. finally replaced both oil filters and put in fresh Valvoline synthetic (on sale 1 gallon for $14.99). I could'nt get to the front brake pads today.
 

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