Have bubbling and smoke

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cali+Mocasho+

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Also light started coming on after 20-30 min of driving at 1100 rpm. Let it sit for 20 fired it up ( nice little cloud of white smoke ) and was able to drive another 15 min home. With no smoke. Notice it spits a single could of smoke on start up and down shift at 3k
 

cali+Mocasho+

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We here it is....
clyinder pressure test.
Clyinder#
1) 190. 2)185. 3)195. 4)195. 5)190. 6)195

Leak down test......
Clyinder#
1)52% 2)52%.- leak to intake. 3)52%. 4)30%-crankcase leak. 5)52% intake leak. 6)52%.

I’m thinking bent valves. Sooo yup kinda wishing it was head gasket.

Can I be blessed with all the necessary parts/tools I need to buy to fix my problem? Or would a new used engine be better? Currently I’m running a 3.2 in my 89
I do plan on droping the motor.

Thank you guys for the help.
 

luigisho

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Depends on what fix you are looking at. Are you going to open it up and see if you can repair it? What is your threshold for pain in money and/or time? Probably more efficient to get a used motor and refresh seals and swap it. If there is no cylinder/piston damage you could rebuild or swap heads.
 

zoomlater

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There are Ford 3.2 upper master gaskets sets available at a known SHO vendor
 

cali+Mocasho+

89 white 3.2 145k
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We here it is....
clyinder pressure test.
Clyinder#
1) 190. 2)185. 3)195. 4)195. 5)190. 6)195

Leak down test......
Clyinder#
1)52% 2)52%.- leak to intake. 3)52%. 4)30%-crankcase leak. 5)52% intake leak. 6)52%.

I’m thinking bent valves. Sooo yup kinda wishing it was head gasket.

Can I be blessed with all the necessary parts/tools I need to fix my problem? Or would a new used engine be better? Currently I’m running a 3.2 in my 89
I do plan on droping the motor.

Thank you guys for the help.
We here it is....
clyinder pressure test.
Clyinder#
1) 190. 2)185. 3)195. 4)195. 5)190. 6)195

Leak down test......
Clyinder#
1)52% 2)52%.- leak to intake. 3)52%. 4)30%-crankcase leak. 5)52% intake leak. 6)52%.

I’m thinking bent valves. Sooo yup kinda wishing it was head gasket.

Can I be blessed with all the necessary parts/tools I need to buy to fix my problem? Or would a new used engine be better? Currently I’m running a 3.2 in my 89
I do plan on droping the motor.

Thank you guys for the help.
We here it is....
clyinder pressure test.
Clyinder#
1) 190. 2)185. 3)195. 4)195. 5)190. 6)195

Leak down test......
Clyinder#
1)52% 2)52%.- leak to intake. 3)52%. 4)30%-crankcase leak. 5)52% intake leak. 6)52%.

I’m thinking bent valves. Sooo yup kinda wishing it was head gasket.

Can I be blessed with all the necessary parts/tools I need to buy to fix my problem? Or would a new used engine be better? Currently I’m running a 3.2 in my 89
I do plan on droping the motor.

Thank you guys for the help.
Wonder if I performed the leak down test
Depends on what fix you are looking at. Are you going to open it up and see if you can repair it? What is your threshold for pain in money and/or time? Probably more efficient to get a used motor and refresh seals and swap it. If there is no cylinder/piston damage you could rebuild or swap heads.
yes sometime soon
 

sperold

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The compression numbers look OK to me.

Did you have the rad cap off during your leak down test? And if you did, there were no bubbles?

I don't know much about leak down testing, but it seems a bit complicated and maybe prone to set up and procedure mistakes.

Did you use a 2 gauge set up?

You are getting pretty good compression from an engine with abnormally high leak down values, and I tend to believe the compression numbers over the other. Also, exactly 52% on all but 1 cylinder seems suspicious.

On the old topic, that puff of white smoke on start up and during extreme deceleration is in fact the valve seals, but that is simply an annoyance and is not connected with overheating and other reported issues.

If you had a head gasket failure, the leak down pressure test would have injected air into your coolant and bubbles would have shown up in the rad.
The explanation for that condition being tied to overheating is, the combustion gases are extremely hot and direct injection into the coolant quickly overcomes the radiator's ability to cool the coolant.

Since you are in an experimental mood and have resigned yourself to removing the engine to perform a cure if necessary, anyways, I would try one last thing. This is based on the idea that if it is a gasket failure, it must be small for it to take a half hour to add the unwanted heat.

I would get a quality "stop leak" product (GM got very good at formulating this stuff) and follow the instructions closely. Anything that has solids should be pre-heated before installation.
That will go a long way in deciding if gaskets are an issue.

I expect to hear howls of protest for anything this primitive.

However, I bought a used SHO with a horrible water pump leak (one eighths cup every minuted) that was doctored -up to pass inspection with this stuff. I operated it this way for a few weeks and the heater rad never gave me problems like reduced efficiency. I only discovered the monster leak when I changed the coolant in a maintenance routine. When I changed the water pump, there were no lingering issues associated with the stop leak product.

And you can back flush everything after the fact, if you have concerns (which is what I would do too).
.
 

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