Grinding noise..?

[Detenator]

Ever since i got back from my trip to CA, the engine has developed a grinding noise. It sounds like a loose bearing, and has only gotten worse with time. It started as only occuring at 1900-2100 Rpm, but has slowly expanded to 1800-2800 Rpm. The wierd thing is is that the noise has to fall into some kind of resonance, it would start abruptly and end just as abruptly as the engine rpm increses. I think its an accesory, which is why i let it go on for so long. (At least I hope it is.) I took a doctor's stethascope and checked the alternator and water pump and anything else that is easy to get to from the top. Im assuming its by where the engine roll damper bolts on to, close to the power steering pump. I really hope that it isn't inside the block somewhere. Anyone have any ideas on where else i should stick that stethascope? By the way, is a power steering pump difficult to replace?

 

[sdpatt]

Also check things for looseness such as the rear bank exhaust manifold heat shield. You may also want to make sure that the timing belt is properly tensioned (click here).

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

Ya know, I just smoked the accesssory belt tensioner bearing in my 92 crown victoria. Grinded like a bean grinder for along time. Thought at first it was my a/c compressor bearing, but when I took the tension off the belt, the pulley fell on the ground along with 6 balls. Start by taking the tension off the access belt and spinning the accessories one at a time with your hand. If that doesnt reveal anything, then I am with Scott on the next step which is much more difficult: Check the timing belt tensioner.

 

[projectSHO89]

Use the stethoscope to check the rear idler pulley bearing also. Mine was grinding like IVEy's, then it seized and burned the back of the belt off, finally spitting the remnants of the belt everywhere.

While you're at it, also check the PS pump by placing the 'scope probe on its housing.

The PS pump, by all reports, is a major PITA to replace. I'm trying to psyche myself up to do mine. It appears that you have to remove the rear motor mount to get to it.

Steve

 

[Detenator]

Hey guys
Remember this post? I posted it up a good few months ago. Anyway, im here to tell you what that i finally solved my problem. And who gets the prize for guessing the correct cause of that problem? The one who fried the accessory belt, hehe. Anyway, I fried my water pump belt the other day. So bad in fact that the balls fell out of the tensioner, and the metal on metal friction melted the bearing into the pulley itself. I cracked up when i saw this under the hood. Luckily it took 40 bucks (pulley + belt) to fix it. One more piece of advice... well 2 pieces of advice. First, if you hear grinding under the hood, check those darn pulleys, it can make a $200 job turn into a $20 dollar job. Big relief. Seccond, those Auto-zone and pep boys geniouses know how to sell you the right pulley, but do they also know to sell you the bushing that goes behind that pulley? noooooo yeah i know you are supposed to reuse the old one, but what if the old one happens to be melted? see? they don't tell you that part. Needless to say, i fried that pulley allong with the belt and everything else because when i tightened it down, it brushed up against the bracket and got itself stuck and wouldn't turn. both the plastic and the rubber melted in less then 5 secconds, doubling my repair bill to 80 bucks... *sigh* live and learn... or better yet, live and learn from other peoples' (mine) mistakes.