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sd8683

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:wave:Hi everyone, I don't have a SHO as of yet but I'm looking for one at the moment. I currently drive a 2003 Mercury Marauder and I'm trying to keep the miles off it, I want a SHO as a daily driver/winter car, I would LOVE to get a clean, well taken care of generation 2 SHO preferably 1994 or 1995. If there is anyone in the New England area that is selling theirs, shoot me a PM and we'll talk.

Thanks, Sean
 
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Welcome! I don't blame you for not wanting to drive the Marauder too much, that is one badass car!

You're in Boston, very close to Northeast SHO in Spencer MA. Kirk Doucette is the owner, and a good friend of mine. I'm not sure if he has any cars for sale, but he's always coming across something. www.nesho.com is the website, contact info is on there.
 

frosho

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Welcome to another Masshole! :wave:

Keep an eye on the classifieds here on the forum, there are nice SHOs popping up for sale all the time. Craigslist usually has a decent selection too, though condition varies widely.
 

sd8683

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Thanks for the welcome guys! I'm in no major rush to find one, hopefully I find a good one by November though.

Sean
 

sd8683

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Welcome in

so to make this clear , you want a clean one to slam it in the winter? :nut:

Yes, I take great care of my vehicles, I drove my Marauder last winter and I would bet any amount that you wouldn't be able to tell its been winter driven. I pay $30 a month for unlimited car washes and I won't hesitate to wash a car every day lol
 

38SHO

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alright so instead of clumps of ice and salt, you can have saltwater on the car's chassis


I wouldn't sell you my car if I knew you were going to drive it in the winter and rust it all up, I'd let it go to someone else who values a rust free chassis more then that....


if your looking for a disposable car, you might have better luck of just finding an already rusty junker SHO and killing it. Cheaper, and you can still have the SHO experience......


I bet I could tell your Marauder was winter driven...............
 
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sd8683

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alright so instead of clumps of ice and salt, you can have saltwater on the car's chassis


I wouldn't sell you my car if I knew you were going to drive it in the winter and rust it all up, I'd let it go to someone else who values a rust free chassis more then that....


if your looking for a disposable car, you might have better luck of just finding an already rusty junker SHO and killing it. Cheaper, and you can still have the SHO experience......


I bet I could tell your Marauder was winter driven...............


Yeah cause a guy in Florida knows what to look for in a winter car? Paaalease! Go pound sand will ya!

And I'm not looking for a "disposable car", I'm looking for a nice looking and well maintained car, because I take care of my cars why would I want anything that doesn't meet my standards?
If I wanted a beater I would buy an accord or something, but I don't want a beater!
 
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With proper care (like it sounds like you would do), these cars can last a long time in the rust belt.

My opinion? It's your money, do whatever the heck you want to!

So you know, common rust areas on these are the rocker panels, and doglegs. Also check subframes and body mounting areas of the subframe.
 

sd8683

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With proper care (like it sounds like you would do), these cars can last a long time in the rust belt.

My opinion? It's your money, do whatever the heck you want to!

So you know, common rust areas on these are the rocker panels, and doglegs. Also check subframes and body mounting areas of the subframe.


Thanks Bob, and I know what to look for body wise, but is there notorious mechanical problems on SHO's that I need to look for? I'm going to be checking out a silver 95 on Saturday and any advise would be much appreciated!

Thanks, Sean
 
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SHO specific stuff I can think of:

-The ATX trannies suck. If you buy one and it hasn't been rebuilt, plan on doing it at some point in your ownership.

-The MTX trannies suck less. As long as the car isn't beaten on, the MTX will do just fine. Burnouts, speed shifting and dropping the clutch usually results in an ejected differential pin at some point.

-As with any car, see if there's any records of maintenance. Front and top 60k maintenance (timing belt, water pump, crank sensor, cam sensor, plugs, wires, valve clearance, re-sealing the valve covers) can get pricey if you have someone do it. Usually around 1200-1500 with parts and labor. Doing it yourself can save you a lot of money. You can get all the parts for well under 500. If this stuff hasn't been done, plan on doing it to have a reliable SHO. Most times, as with any car, neglect is the culprit.

-Rod bearings. Some consider them normal maintenance on an SHO with over or close to 100k. Parts are under $100, labor prices vary depending on rust, broken manifold studs when dropping the y-pipe, etc.


Other than the rod bearings, it's just a matter of responsible ownership, IE was the car owned by a snot nosed kid that left rubber at every stop light, or was it maintained and driven normally?


To be honest, with my sarcastic (often confused with douchy) disposition, I'd look for the cleanest rust free southern SHO on ebay, buy it, and drive it through the winter without washing it. Ever. Post pics. :p
 

firebat45

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Welcome to the forums! There's a bunch of SHOs for sale in/around New York at all times it seems, but they're also the more questionable ones in terms of quality (generally).

Also, so what if he wants to winter drive it? Seems like some people are forgetting this is a 20 year old Taurus we're talking about, not a Ferrari. There's plenty of nice SLO shells waiting to be SHO swapped if a SHO starts to rust.
 

sd8683

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Thanks Bob and Firebat!
Well I'm going to check out a Silver 1995 tomorrow at 2:00pm...... I will let you guys know the outcome! I'm a little worried about the mileage though, it has 150,***, and I asked the owner if their was any major drivetrain repairs done to the car but he was unaware because he purchased it from a friend:confused:
 
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The engines can last well over 300k with maintenance. 150k is not too bad for a car that's 14 years old, but it sounds like he's never done anything to it.

Pull a front plug wire out and see if it's coated in oil. If it is, chances are it hasn't had any 60k work done.

Could be a good deal if the price is right...
 

sd8683

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The engines can last well over 300k with maintenance. 150k is not too bad for a car that's 14 years old, but it sounds like he's never done anything to it.

Pull a front plug wire out and see if it's coated in oil. If it is, chances are it hasn't had any 60k work done.

Could be a good deal if the price is right...


Well apparently he bought the car off a friend and had big plans for it, now he has a baby on the way and has to get rid of the car, he recently did the brakes and rotors and some other maintainance stuff, he said the only things the car needs is a brake line and a fuel filter.
 

sd8683

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Well I checked it out today, it was in overall pretty good shape, it had some rot on the passenger side front wheel well were it meets the doors trim piece, when he started the car the motor seemed jumpy at idle, meaning it was rocking back and forth, is this normal, do these cars have rubber motor mounts? That would explain it being jumpy to an extent I guess???
I told the guy I would get back to him, after I ran that issue through the experts here! I can probably get the car for $1400-$1500, does that seem reasonable? It has 150,*** miles.

Thanks again guys, Sean
 

firebat45

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Rot is up to you whether or not it's acceptable.

Jumping motor is almost a sure sign of torn motor mounts. Is there a polished spot on the intake? The intake will rub against the hood liner if the mount tears and after a while there will be a little polished/scratched looking spot.

If a mount is torn, it's usually the front mount. In some cases it might be both, but it would be pretty strange for just the rear to go (unless the front has been replaced recently). New reinforced mounts are around $150 and should never go bad. I think ShoSource's ones have a lifetime warranty.

Pull a spark plug wire out and check for oil on the tip of the boot, too.

Example of pretty bad motor mount:
FMq4OQmEKGrHgoOKjoEjlLmRkbZBKp vfDi 4
 
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^ what he said.

Also, if it's jumping around at idle it's probably misfiring. IMO The price is too high, keep a' looking!
 

Ashley_MTX

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Oh no- don't tell Sam you have a Marauder...if it really is rust free he'll come steal it from you.

Welcome! I just bought mine because I saw another that was amazingly clean. Good luck with the hunt.
 

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