Glad I Ordered Valve Cover Gaskets

[JRA2000TL]

I went outside a few minutes ago to play around with the SHO. I figured I'd try a few easy things out to see why the car seems to run rich and have a lack of power (especially now after driving a 95, which was much faster). I pulled out my plugs again on the front bank and wow, the tips were ok but at the base (right where the plug threads start), they were black and the threads were oily. This was the case on all 3 in the front. I didn't bother to hassle with the rears.

So apparently I DO need valve cover gaskets and new plugs, which are on the way along with intake manifold gaskets and rod bearings. I also pulled a whole front (left) bank's worth of shims from the junkyard and the front (left) bank cam tensioner with the chain.

Maybe between replacing ALL of this crap, I can restore power to the car and get rid of that clacking sound. If it turns out to be a problem with the engine; well......I'm SOL.

 

[bubba]

Sounds like you are getting ready to do another "60k"! might as well do the cam seals while your in there

 

[Vnuk1]

I'm sure it will run like a champ when all the required maintenace is made current.

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

As stated, if you're going to tear into it like that might as well do the waterpump, sensors and seals + plugs and wires

 

[JRA2000TL]

Yeah I know...this damned car. I was finally ok to start fixing it up until I drove that 95 and now I want one of those. I think my clutch is in the latter parts of it's life too after driving that one. My brother's friend works at a tranny shop that his family owns, so maybe he'll cut me a break.

Now I'm really at a turning point. I think I'll try to find out what the engine noise is before I go any further with the car. That will determine if I sell it or keep it based on what it needs. Don't forget I also need a $500 exhaust, a $1200 paint job, and $300 in new headlights....oh yeah, and the r-134a conversion and leak fix for the a/c.

 

[JRA2000TL]

As stated, if you're going to tear into it like that might as well do the waterpump, sensors and seals + plugs and wires

The waterpump is new (you can look at it and tell), plus the PO said it was just changed. The timing belt has been changed with a Napa belt and the accessory belts have been changed with Gates belts, so I'm ok for the front. The belts look decent too. The Ford plug wires still look good. I bought Motorcraft plugs to replace the existing ones (also Motorcraft). The car seems to run rich at startup (maybe they all do) but I'm not getting any O2 codes.

 

[38SHO]

why do u think your clutch is going out and the 95's felt stronger?

does urs slip?

 

[JRA2000TL]

why do u think your clutch is going out and the 95's felt stronger?

does urs slip?

No, not that I can tell. It's just really grabby. When I got in the 95 to drive it, I wound up revving it really high when I first started out (higher than I needed to). On my car, if I don't do this it tries to bog down and stall. I can't explain it. It was more "easy does it" smooth engagement with the 95. I could feather the clutch and easily/smoothly make any corrections on my part if I over or under revved the car (without it jerking too much). On mine it's all jerky when I try to start off from a stop. I kept thinking maybe I'm the ******* that can't drive a stick right, but I did MUCH better with the 95 than mine. I've driven quite a few MTX cars before but my 90 has always been a PITA compared to others. My brother has a **** of a time with it. I tried to teach him a few times and gave up before he burnt up the clutch. You have to land it right in this tiny niche for it to smoothly start out; if you don't get it perfect, it jerks.
I talked with SHObill and he says he's never driven 2 SHO MTXs that felt the same way. Maybe it's the nature of the beast, I don't know. The 95 had better steering. I forgot how much I miss my Gen 2.