Gen 4 speaker upgrade (stock size)

[SHOHARD]

Can anyone give me a site to look up the non Sony speaker size. The sound system sucks and I want to upgrade.

I heard the doors are 5x7 and 6x9 would fit with modification. The center is 3.5. What size are the tweeters?

Crutchfield has conflicting sizes.

Thanks!

 

[SHOdded]

This may be the same for the 2015, but at least in the 2011:

1inch tweeters in the Pillars and a center channel
6x9s in the front doors
6x9s in the rear doors, plus tweeters up top.
6x9s in the rear deck as factory "subs"
A rear center channel​

Wiring diagrams (again drawn from the 2011)

 

[pejohnson]

Very helpful information. Thanks SHOdded


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SHOHARD]

So I found this on another site. Can you verify the speakers in the Non sony system is 6x9"? Pictures or something. Check this link out.
http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=18163&p=112062&hilit=speaker+upgrade#p112062

 

[SHOHARD]

This may be the same for the 2015, but at least in the 2011:

1inch tweeters in the Pillars and a center channel
6x9s in the front doors
6x9s in the rear doors, plus tweeters up top.
6x9s in the rear deck as factory "subs"
A rear center channel​

Wiring diagrams (again drawn from the 2011)

This is for the non sony 6th gen SHO right?

 

[SHOHARD]

Figure out SHOdded you are correct. Sorry I just want to make sure before I order the speakers.

Here is a link that will tell all.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/CarFitGuide.aspx

 

[SHOdded]

Figure out SHOdded you are correct. Sorry I just want to make sure before I order the speakers.

Measure twice, cut once, right? It's a bit nerve-wracking for me as well, guessing at the fit if I haven't pulled the original part already. Don't know if additional sound dampening can be installed or is necessary in your application.

 

[gandyj]

This is a link I found when I was asking speaker questions back in June
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/120...isual/272857-2015-speaker-sizes-upgrades.html

 

[SHOHARD]

Measure twice, cut once, right? It's a bit nerve-wracking for me as well, guessing at the fit if I haven't pulled the original part already. Don't know if additional sound dampening can be installed or is necessary in your application.

SHOdded I spoke to soon. You are wrong! The 2015 has 6x8", I ****** myself because I thought the same thing. Ordered 6X9" and they do not fit.

 

[SHOdded]

Ah, that sucks! I hope you can get them replaced for free? I guess the SHO has the same speaker sizes as listed in this post:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/2853465-post8.html

gandyj had pointed out that thread ...

 

[SHOHARD]

Ah, that sucks! I hope you can get them replaced for free? I guess the SHO has the same speaker sizes as listed in this post:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/2853465-post8.html

gandyj had pointed out that thread ...

LOL! Yeah I seen that after I ordered my speakers. SO...I will be upgrading to 6x9 for my doors. It does not seem like anyone else has done it so I will be building a thread showing my build. If you know of anyone that has already upgraded to 6x9 please attach a thread. I will keep you posted SHOdded. This will be fun.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

3.5 for center but there is a twist if you need photos let me know. A good decent 3 way center at least for 2013/2014 will require a very slight modification of the instrument panel. I say very slight because you basically have to cut a small V-Notch" into the plastic....the cut should be no more than about 1/4 inch and with proper cutting will be covered up by the speaker grille. The reason for the cut is if the new speaker fits as the OEM removed the grille won't fit. The purpose of the cut is to allow the speaker to fit UNDERNEATH the plastic. Slowly insert the new speaker underneath the plastic and rotate the screw alignment tabs and run the screw to draw the speaker screw UP from the bottom. Again I have plenty of photos if needed. Very small notch and will be covered up by the grille if done right. The 3 way speakers I had were from Kicker and in case your following along at home. The difference in mounting the speaker Above the plastic like OEM and Underneath the plastic and drawing up the speaker from the bottom is the difference between the grille fitment. For better or worse the tolerance is that tight. After the notching for installation my Kickers were able to use the OEM wiring harness a simple plug and play POS/NEG just make sure you get a good tight fit so it doesn't come loose after installation.

Also if you don't have the SONY System you probably don't have rear deck speakers....This can be a good thing. I was able to add 6X9 rear deck speakers to my SEL fairly easily. The cutout in the frame is there, along with the cutout in the trunk carpet molding. I removed the carpeting and installed the speakers from Underneath similar to the center Instrument panel and ran the mounting screws bottom to top with the screw heads on the trunk side. There is a airbag curtain on the top side so be careful not to puncture that. I tapped into the Rear doors as a power source. Rear deck speakers are right about ear level and definitely make a difference.

For those with SONY systems at least for my 14 SHO the speakers appear to be installed further up the assembly line process before the parcel shelf was installed. The factory was obviously able to use the pneumatic screw drivers which puts the screw heads on the cabin side obviously making parcel shelf removal necessary. Again use extreme caution to prevent puncturing the airbag curtain.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

Doors definitely 6X8 I used 6X8 in the SEL and they were about as close to a exact plug and play fit as you can get. There area wiring harness pig tail adapters for the doors that can make a plug and play fit of the OEM wiring harness to the new speakers. They work for the rear but fronts are a little different. The Front's have the tweeters wired into the front speakers by use of across over/BASS Blocker This prevents the low frequencies from reaching the tweeters. If you are wondering if NOT using BASS blockers will blow the tweeters...the answer is yes...ask me how I know. A decent set of tweeters should have BASS Blockers installed and believe it or not the $10.00 pair of tweeters from SOnix Electronix worked fine. There is some quirks on removing the A pillar panel but not overly complicated.

5X7 and 6X8 should be a direct drop in fit for the OEM speaker basket. I can't speak for 6X9 but not to say they won't fit.

 

[Mdrew]

Doors definitely 6X8 I used 6X8 in the SEL and they were about as close to a exact plug and play fit as you can get. There area wiring harness pig tail adapters for the doors that can make a plug and play fit of the OEM wiring harness to the new speakers. They work for the rear but fronts are a little different. The Front's have the tweeters wired into the front speakers by use of across over/BASS Blocker This prevents the low frequencies from reaching the tweeters. If you are wondering if NOT using BASS blockers will blow the tweeters...the answer is yes...ask me how I know. A decent set of tweeters should have BASS Blockers installed and believe it or not the $10.00 pair of tweeters from SOnix Electronix worked fine. There is some quirks on removing the A pillar panel but not overly complicated.

5X7 and 6X8 should be a direct drop in fit for the OEM speaker basket. I can't speak for 6X9 but not to say they won't fit.

I have a '15 SHO with the Sony system and am going to start replacing OEM speakers as they leave alot to be wanting. So when replacing the front door's but not the pillar tweeters, am I able to reuse the bass blocker with the new 6X8 in the door?

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

Short answer is you can but I wouldn't recommend it. Let me clarify though. Most at least the ones I have seen do not have crossovers on the aftermarket speakers. A couple of different options..

A. Cut the cross over from the OEM speakers and splice into the new ones....cut the cross over at the center of the frame. USE EXTREME CAUTION circuit board is sensitive and you could wind up breaking the solder to the circuit board.

B. Purchase aftermarket BASS Blockers....approximately $10...ish a set from Crutchfield. Splice from the Positive of the tweeter and positive of the new speaker UPLINE of the speaker connection and then into the Positive of the new speaker.

C. Make sure the tweeters have a BASS Blocker installed.

The reason I say decide first is you really don't want to open up the door panel more than necessary. If you decide on tweeters Get BASS blockers first. If you decide on doors only you are fine. The wiring is like this.....Tweeter Positive-BASS BLOCKER Positive......BASS Blocker to POSITIVE of OEM harness and then to POS of new speaker. I will have to dig up some from the archives but I am pretty sure I have decent photos.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

With three way speakers you will essentially get Low/Bass Midrange and two sets of Highs one for the door and one from the tweeters.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

I ordered my BASS Blockers from Crutchfield but you might find them elsewhere. Depending on what the price of the speakers, if the BASS Blockers might make the difference in getting the price up to qualify for free shipping that would probably be a good investment.

 

[Mdrew]

Yea that makes sense. It looks like I will probably just be better off getting a set of component speakers for the door and pillar then.

 

[Mdrew]

Also, you mentioned earlier that there are some quirks to removing the pillar? Care to share? Also, any issues mounting new tweeters? Thanks in advance.

 

[SHOHARD]

Also, you mentioned earlier that there are some quirks to removing the pillar? Care to share? Also, any issues mounting new tweeters? Thanks in advance.

The tweeters were easy to install the pillar just popped off but when ur pulling the bottom out you need to pull the top from right to left or vise vursa. I can make a video of it. But I am getting cracking when I turn up my music. That might be because I don't have base blockers or an amp installed. What do you guys think?