Fun times with the SHO -_-

[iggy]

Have a new issue with the car again. Might as well tell you what i did and found out before i get to my new problem lol.

OK I went ahead and did a whole 60k maintanace on the front of the motor. replaced the cam seals right aways since 2 where leaking (sensor one and the middle one) . Afterwards I did find that the one on the cam sensor was leaking bad and was planing on ridding it out till winter was over. Didn't really leak as long as i wasn't hitting ******* the gas much.

Also found that either the A/C or the alternator might have a bearing out possibly. I think it is the A/C. The belt like to sqeek real bad and I think it was like this before because once we tighten it it wasn't sqeaking anymore. Was wondering if there was a size belt that i could just take out the A/C system or a pully that can replace it.

THE PROBLEM: Now yesterday when driving back from school I got off the highway and the car almost dies on me when i push in the clutch but jumps back in to the normal idle. Well started driving after that and the car would **** around and can see the tach suddenly drop half a grand then go back to normal. Pulled over to the side of the road...checked everything over...made sure oil was still there(remeber bad seal) and was all good looking to me. Started it up and after 10 seconds that car just dies...do it again same thing. I then had a freind come out that knew more about cars than me and checked it...well we decided it was ok to dirve so start driving and everything normal. then a couple more minuts later after passing a car(if this matters) it starts to **** again. so I pull over and when i push the clutch in it dies instantly. start it up and it is all good and drove the rest of the way home...

didn't look at the codes yet(still kind of ******) but we kind of came up with possible ideas. I read that if the trany grinds into reverse it wasn't good and that is what mine did. if jump into a gear and then go to reverse it was good though. so maybe bad clutch for the jerking thing? but kind of wierd that it died... another thing i kind of think maybe the A/C with a bad bearing is cactching and kills it...but i wouldn't think the a/c could do that though...

Hope you can help me...very close to just selling the thing. only had it for 3 months and it is becomeing a unwanted money pit.

Thanks in advance!

 

[iggy]

Ok went and got the codes today....the two I am really interested in is the SPOUT ones. 212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault - Ignition Systems and 219 (M) SPOUT circuit failure, timing defaulted to 10 degrees. There was also 225 (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS if that means anything. Now that I did a search on here for the spout and it seems like the conditions are correct. Going to go try finding and looking at them now. have been acting as if it was losing power all the time. Hope this may solve my problem. Please give my your opinons....I am yamaha ******** lol.

Also forgot to say it was a 93 MTX.

 

[nc89sho]

sounds more cam/crank sensor related to me.

the tach getts it's feed right off the CPS.

 

[SonicRiot]

Remember that SHOs do not have a synchronized 3rd gear, so if the vehicle is at all in motion or the tranny is spinning at a different speed than the input shaft, it will grind. To avoid this, put the car in first before putting it into reverse. This will act as your suncro. As you described this symptom in your post, there seems to be no issue.

However, the bucking and stalling sounds like a possible fuel delivery or spark issue. Do you have misfire codes?

Also, if you were replacing seals, you most likely unplugged or moved some stuff out of the way. Make sure your vacuum lines are all in place. Rule out any vacuum leaks.

 

[Rockledge]

I would suspect a crank sensor (CPS) or DIS Module problem. When you did the 60K, did you replace the CPS?

I would also ensure the engine ground strap is attached properly.

The problem has nothing to do with the tranny. The jerking around was because your ignition system was malfunctioning.

 

[slickn56]

did you tighten the crank pulley bold down to spec? I have seen this bolt get loose and cause all sort of starting and driving problems when the pulley starts to back away from the engine....

 

[SolidState]

I would suspect a crank sensor (CPS) or DIS Module problem. When you did the 60K, did you replace the CPS?

I would also ensure the engine ground strap is attached properly.

The problem has nothing to do with the tranny. The jerking around was because your ignition system was malfunctioning.

I'm with him. Make sure you properly attached your cross over tube...

 

[ohfosho]

its the cam sensor...i went throught this( had a code 212) and you are leaking oil right into it.

 

[Rockledge]

its the cam sensor...i went throught this( had a code 212) and you are leaking oil right into it.

I'm surprised to hear your CID sensor was bad and it threw a 212 code and not a 214 code.

 

[ohfosho]

actually come to think of it, im not sure if it was 212...i cant remeber which is for which since i had CPS failure about 2 months after the CID. but 212 is ignition tach signal is erratic...and my tach was sitting at zero for most of the time before i replaced the cam sensor. but the 214 is the for sure cam sensor code. i got 211 with my CPS

but if there is oil leaking right onto it all the time, that would be my first suspect, and also the cheapest and easiest to replace...compared to the full front 60k including CPS