Fuel Pump - CE Light Question
- Thread starter RI-SHO
- Start date
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They neva told me the code at AutoZone they just said my Fuel is sending voltage(or sending a signal) and told it was about to go. Which sounds right to what happened after I dynoed and took it to 140MPH. Before the Dyno my CE light neva went on, after the dyno it started going on after driving for about 10min. Now when I first turn it on the CE light is off but after 10-15min it will stay for as long as the car is on but then i turn it off and drive and it'll take another 10-15min to go back on.
Also I have been having been hearing a whining noise from the fuel pump like for 30sec when the car is 1st started in the morining or when cold. And sometimes when its cold and i start it and remember i have to turn it off for a reason or another and go to start a few min later it will take a few cranks to get it to start not just one key turn. Those are a few of the problems that started after the dyno so it was a good experience for me but not for my SHO squint .
naval-avi8or
New Member
Check the Codes its very hard to help with out the actual code. As for autozone half the time you got to jump behind the counter and do their job for them cause the don't have a clue. Look at several of the most recent post with the link that SDPATT provided for how to check the codes with a simple jumper wire (ie paper clip).
You really need to check your codes. This is a link that Scott had and it is a very good one actually. You really need to run this yourself and follow it step by step. You can't trust autozone especially if they didn't tell you the codes. Repost after you run the test.
Jason
Alright i'm not to good with electrical things, so I connect a paper clip to the #2 connector then to the self test connecter. Then watch CE light for the blinking and figure out the codes(with engine and off) by the instructions on the website SDPatt posted? Is that basically how its done? Or did miss anything??
<small>[ April 30, 2002, 12:26 AM: Message edited by: RI-SHO ]</small>
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
Follow these instructions.....I'm sorry, thought I posted it.
jason
No, no I read the description on the website above, but it doesnt mention anything like you did and I was wondering if what i need to connect the #2 connector to the self test connceter pin was a paper clip? Is that right? thats what I was basically asking.
Ok I performed the EEC test and these were my shady results(not too sure on some of the codes):
KOEO: 543, 167, 186, 211, 566, and 521.
KOER: 211, 116, 136, 538, 536, 521, 171, and 538.
About half those codes are b/c I know didnt perform the test correctly, can Scott or someone else clear up whats wrong with my SHO? Seems most of them are for the fuel pump and MAF, so any other feedback?
KOEO: 543, 167, 186, 211, 566, and 521.
KOER: 211, 116, 136, 538, 536, 521, 171, and 538.
About half those codes are b/c I know didnt perform the test correctly, can Scott or someone else clear up whats wrong with my SHO? Seems most of them are for the fuel pump and MAF, so any other feedback?
naval-avi8or
New Member
116 Car wasn't at operating temp when you ran the KOER test.
136 HEGO shows system always lean (left).
167 Failed to goose throttle during dynamic response test.
171 Fuel system at addaptive limit,HEDO unable to switch (right).
186 Injector pule width higher than expected
211 PIP circuit failure (make sure no oil in plug wells) Shoman posted recently about this.
521 you didn't cycle the power steering during KOER test.
536 Didn't actuate the brake pedal during KOER test.
538 Failed to goose throttle during dynamic response test.
543 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure: BATT to ECA
566 3-4 shift seloniod circuit failure
<small>[ May 01, 2002, 08:52 PM: Message edited by: naval-avi8or ]</small>
naval-avi8or
New Member
136 bad O2 sensor its not switching.
171 pionts to bad O2 sensor not switching.
187 indicates pulse width higher than expected (lean).Inspect the air cleaner and air inlet ducting. Check for unmetered air between Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid. Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc. Are all the above vacuum checks OK?
Yes -- Go to G10. See: G10 - Check Fuel Pressure No -- Service as necessary. Rerun quick test.
211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in an engine miss or stall.
Possible causes:
Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.).
On-board transmitter (2-way radio).
Loose wires/connectors.
NOTE: If arcing of secondary ignition components is present, service as necessary. If an on-board transmitter (2-way radio) is present, use the manufacturer's instruction to check the routing of antenna and power leads.
521 you didn't cycle the power steering during KOER test.
543/524 indicates a fuel pump secondary circuit failure between the B(+) supply and the Fuel Pump Monitor (FPM) connection to the power-to-pump circuit.
Possible causes:
No Starts:
Open circuit between the B(+) supply and the FPM connection to the power-to-pump circuit.
Fuel pump relay contacts always open.
Engine Starts:
Left/Front Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) short to power
Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM) .
Does the engine start?
Yes -- For all dual HO2S applications: Go to X86. See: X86 - Check Front/Left HO2S For Short to Power
DTC 566 or 629 indicates the CCS or SS3/4-4/3 circuits did not change state when requested by the PCM.
Possible causes:
Damaged solenoid assembly.
Open or shorted harness (internal/external).
Damaged PCM.
NOTE: Do not use a STAR Tester for this step. Use a Analog Volt/Ohm Meter (VOM) or Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVOM) .
YOU HAVE A BAD O2 SENSOR (replace them)
rerun the test and all others should go away.
Don't forget to let the car warm up shut it off for 10 sec then restart it for the KOER test. You must cycle the Brake pedal, steering wheel, and overdrive button at the specified time for the test to run correctly. You must also goose the throttle 2/3-1/2 for the dynamic response test at the specified time. GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!
171 pionts to bad O2 sensor not switching.
187 indicates pulse width higher than expected (lean).Inspect the air cleaner and air inlet ducting. Check for unmetered air between Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid. Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc. Are all the above vacuum checks OK?
Yes -- Go to G10. See: G10 - Check Fuel Pressure No -- Service as necessary. Rerun quick test.
211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in an engine miss or stall.
Possible causes:
Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.).
On-board transmitter (2-way radio).
Loose wires/connectors.
NOTE: If arcing of secondary ignition components is present, service as necessary. If an on-board transmitter (2-way radio) is present, use the manufacturer's instruction to check the routing of antenna and power leads.
521 you didn't cycle the power steering during KOER test.
543/524 indicates a fuel pump secondary circuit failure between the B(+) supply and the Fuel Pump Monitor (FPM) connection to the power-to-pump circuit.
Possible causes:
No Starts:
Open circuit between the B(+) supply and the FPM connection to the power-to-pump circuit.
Fuel pump relay contacts always open.
Engine Starts:
Left/Front Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) short to power
Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM) .
Does the engine start?
Yes -- For all dual HO2S applications: Go to X86. See: X86 - Check Front/Left HO2S For Short to Power
DTC 566 or 629 indicates the CCS or SS3/4-4/3 circuits did not change state when requested by the PCM.
Possible causes:
Damaged solenoid assembly.
Open or shorted harness (internal/external).
Damaged PCM.
NOTE: Do not use a STAR Tester for this step. Use a Analog Volt/Ohm Meter (VOM) or Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVOM) .
YOU HAVE A BAD O2 SENSOR (replace them)
rerun the test and all others should go away.
Don't forget to let the car warm up shut it off for 10 sec then restart it for the KOER test. You must cycle the Brake pedal, steering wheel, and overdrive button at the specified time for the test to run correctly. You must also goose the throttle 2/3-1/2 for the dynamic response test at the specified time. GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!
What could cause the O2 sensor from going bad after only 7mths??(installed new OEM ones in Sept of last year). I also cleaned(all tubing is nice and shiny now inside and out) my MAF/Intake piping about 2wks ago and also cleaned my K&N filter a month ago, so this just consuses me even more. And how do I know which O2 sensor is bad? And where can I buy two new good cheap O2 sensors online? BTW how do I know when to turn the wheel or "goose" the throttle, is it after the long spaces between the blinks in the CE light?
O!! so I wont need a new fuel pump anytime soon with these current codes?!?!? (just O2 sensor right?)
<small>[ May 01, 2002, 09:01 PM: Message edited by: RI-SHO ]</small>
naval-avi8or
New Member
SET the parking brake.
Start the car let it warm all the way up to normal 5-10min. shut it off wait 10 sec. (go place you testing lead in).
Start car, you shoud get 1 1 1 then cycle steering wheel/brake pedal/overdrive switch. than it will ren through the test later you will hear the car drop its idle back down and you will get 1 flash goose the throttle to around 3000. That's about as much as I can tell you due to the fact that I have a ScanTool. I just wnt out and ran the test and jotted down what and when it asked me to do stuff and corrolated it with what I was seeing.
As for the O2 sensors you may want to check the connectors as they are not switching could be a broken connection (not meaning physicaly broken) the test is currently saying both left and right with the left having multiple codes.
Check the 02 connections and you can also test them as follows:
HEATER ELEMENT RESISTANCE
Hot to warm 5.0-30.0 ohms
Room temperature 2.0-5.0 ohms
HO2S SWITCHING
HO2S signal 0.3-0.9 volts within 3 seconds
After driving 55 mph for 5 minutes.
check everything and rerun test. Let us know what happens.
<small>[ May 01, 2002, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: naval-avi8or ]</small>
Start the car let it warm all the way up to normal 5-10min. shut it off wait 10 sec. (go place you testing lead in).
Start car, you shoud get 1 1 1 then cycle steering wheel/brake pedal/overdrive switch. than it will ren through the test later you will hear the car drop its idle back down and you will get 1 flash goose the throttle to around 3000. That's about as much as I can tell you due to the fact that I have a ScanTool. I just wnt out and ran the test and jotted down what and when it asked me to do stuff and corrolated it with what I was seeing.
As for the O2 sensors you may want to check the connectors as they are not switching could be a broken connection (not meaning physicaly broken) the test is currently saying both left and right with the left having multiple codes.
Check the 02 connections and you can also test them as follows:
HEATER ELEMENT RESISTANCE
Hot to warm 5.0-30.0 ohms
Room temperature 2.0-5.0 ohms
HO2S SWITCHING
HO2S signal 0.3-0.9 volts within 3 seconds
After driving 55 mph for 5 minutes.
check everything and rerun test. Let us know what happens.
<small>[ May 01, 2002, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: naval-avi8or ]</small>
naval-avi8or
New Member
Ya unless you just want to push one for the **** of it. Not required on MTX so do the others and your golden. BTW make sure all the acc stuff is off (ie electrical,ac,ect...)
naval-avi8or
New Member
(B) - Troubleshooting the TPS
The following is a list of vehicle symptoms which have been associated with the TPS, but can also be related to other vehicle components.
^ Check engine light
^ Stalls/quits
^ Hesitation/stumble
^ Fast idle
If an EEC error code has identified the TPS as suspect, perform PC/ED Manual pinpoint tests on the TPS.
Testing the TPS in the vehicle electrical circuit:
The TPS is supplied with a 5.0 volt reference signal. As the TPS senses throttle plate rotation, the output voltage changes to a value in the range of 0.4 volts to 4.8 volts depending on vehicle application. A voltmeter, New Generation Star Tester (NGS) or Service Bay Diagnostics System (SBDS) is the recommended test equipment for checking the TPS output.
The reason SBDS or NGS are the preferred tools is that they allow TPS voltage monitoring without disturbing the connector. Many conditions can be caused by loose, dirty, oxidized, or poor connections that may correct themselves for a short time if the connector is disturbed during testing. This can mislead technicians into replacing a TPS that is okay, and the true cause, a bad connection, may return at some future time.
The following is a list of vehicle symptoms which have been associated with the TPS, but can also be related to other vehicle components.
^ Check engine light
^ Stalls/quits
^ Hesitation/stumble
^ Fast idle
If an EEC error code has identified the TPS as suspect, perform PC/ED Manual pinpoint tests on the TPS.
Testing the TPS in the vehicle electrical circuit:
The TPS is supplied with a 5.0 volt reference signal. As the TPS senses throttle plate rotation, the output voltage changes to a value in the range of 0.4 volts to 4.8 volts depending on vehicle application. A voltmeter, New Generation Star Tester (NGS) or Service Bay Diagnostics System (SBDS) is the recommended test equipment for checking the TPS output.
The reason SBDS or NGS are the preferred tools is that they allow TPS voltage monitoring without disturbing the connector. Many conditions can be caused by loose, dirty, oxidized, or poor connections that may correct themselves for a short time if the connector is disturbed during testing. This can mislead technicians into replacing a TPS that is okay, and the true cause, a bad connection, may return at some future time.
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