Frusturated at Clutch engagement

[NotSoSlowSHO]

could it be the problems arise because we have a weak quadrant, and a performance clutch has more pressure on it, than a stock clutch, so it gives up sooner than with a stock replacement?

Not likely.

Most of the "performance" clutches use OEM equivelant pressure plates and clamp loads. Typically all that is done to the pressure plate is larger rivets or bolts to hold the strap, all else is the same as a stock pressure plate.

My SHO has been running a SHOnut HD pressure plate and a Fibertuff 6-puck disc for over 40k now. No problems.

Also FYI,

My '89 SHO is on it's 5th clutch. But still running the factory installed clutch cable and quadrant, with no signs of failure or wear. Personally, I find a quadrant failure unlikely. But who knows.... these cars are starting to get a bit old. Maybe this is the start of a trend.

 

[dantheman68]

yeah... im thinking its my quadrant, because i have heard it click... but the engagement makes no changes... same really high release... ive always had it, so its not the clutch

 

[TYSHO]

Sounds like the quadant is OVER tensioning the cable.

Although that does sound like what it could be, that's not possible unless someone shortened the cable and had the Incredible Hulk come over to push the TOB lever arm back while the cable end was installed. The clutch would be slipping like crazy, too.



Well the news on installing the new quadrant parts is that it did not help one bit. It does allow me to manually adjust the cable and stay where I put it. Right now, I have it adjusted where the pedel is only like 3 inches away from the floor, that way I can just push it to the floor and shift like normal for the time being.

The problem officially lies in the pressure plate diaphram as I've replaced the cable and quadrant with new parts, confirmed the torque straps were not bent, and the pressure plate bolts were in place. I think the pressure plate fingers are bent or something crazy is happening from where the lever points were modified for additional clamp load [this is how most performance pressure plates are].

 

[dantheman68]

The weirdest of all, if I push my pedal down only like 2-3 inches, I can shift perfect. But if I push it to the floor, I can't engage any gear. To top that off, when I went on another high speed run I was able to push the pedle down all of the way and have smooth shifts, but that went away on the next attempt. I'm wondering if the problem is with the pressure plate diaphram.

so... none of this got better

 

[TYSHO]

Nope. I just went ahead and adjusted the pedel to where it only was 3 inches above the floor from where it starts tensioning up. It get's hard trying to find the sweet spot 2-3" from the top when you're able to push down a good 5 or more inches, so I have it stopping right at the floor now.

 

[dantheman68]

but has shifting improved?

 

[TYSHO]

Nothing improved. The only thing I gained from it was a new quadrant that holds my manual adjustment better and not letting it go back to the normal position.

 

[dantheman68]

so now if you push it to the floor you can engage in the gears? thats my main concern, because i can shift well if i go 1/2 way down... so by moving that down will improve teh pedal feel... thats what i think atleast

 

[smokin joe]

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=66627&highlight=clutch+adjustment

 

[dantheman68]

WOW! thanks joe, ill have to try that this weekend

 

[smokin joe]

yeah tell me how it goes because my clutch engages at the last 2inches it sucks i think i need 2 shim it also

 

[dantheman68]

yeah im going home this weekend... i dont know where to get that kinda aluminium... ill let you know how it works out... i have the same problem

 

[TYSHO]

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=66627&highlight=clutch+adjustment

That is for people with worn out quadrants. If you can manually adjust it and it doesn't move back on it's own, you quadrant is fine. If it doesn't hold, the new quadrant kits are so cheap and easy to replace, you might as well replace the kit and not hassle with a shim that you have to play with to get it right.

so now if you push it to the floor you can engage in the gears? thats my main concern, because i can shift well if i go 1/2 way down... so by moving that down will improve teh pedal feel... thats what i think atleast

Yeah, exactly. I moved the pedel and changed the feel. If your quadrant is good, you can already do this without needing the "shim" described in that link, which is a poor mans way out from replacing the quadrant.

 

[dantheman68]

? im confused if the quadrant is worn, how can i already do this?

{edit} i cant adjust at all... i tried manually adjusting it and nothing happened...

 

[TYSHO]

? im confused if the quadrant is worn, how can i already do this?

{edit} i cant adjust at all... i tried manually adjusting it and nothing happened...

Did you try manually adjusting it and you just heard the teeth slide back into the old position right away? If so, that's a worn out quadrant assembly and you would need a new kit or that shim to manually adjust it.


Here's the basics on this "shim" crap.

1. You don't need that "shim" if you have a good quadrant that can hold a manual adjustment. This is all the shim is doing for you in the first place because the white "pawl" gear and/or blue "quadrant" gear have worn teeth.

2. If you have a shim, that simply means you need a new "Quad & Pawl" kit. IIRC, Tony was charging $20 per a shim [outside of the 06' convention]. For a little more, you can get new Ford parts that fix this problem and don't require all of the BS work, trying to get it right after several attempts.

3. If you have your quadrant [good one] or "shim" adjusted where it fixes your shifting problem but has slack in the clutch pedal, it simply means you need to fix the real problem. That problem would be either your clutch cable or clutch assembly.

4. All the "shim" is, is like throwing in 20W-80 oil in your motor to stop the oil leaks when you should be replacing the oil seal(s) needed. The oil seals in this situation would be the "Quad & Pawl" kit, clutch cable, or clutch kit.

 

[dantheman68]

well... i heard it click, but the engagement didnt change... i even tried it several times, so i think the white teeth are worn


and i think you do the shim in car, because how would you keep tension on the clutch?

 

[TYSHO]

well... i heard it click, but the engagement didnt change... i even tried it several times, so i think the white teeth are worn

When you say you manually adjusted the pedal, did you pull up on the clutch pedal [holding it in place], push the blue quadrant piece toward the firewall [holding it in place, too], then release the clutch pedal so it would hold the quadrant in place? You have to do it in that order, otherwise the quadrant will return to the same position.

and i think you do the shim in car, because how would you keep tension on the clutch?

Yeah, it is done in the car and if you don't have small hands/arms, you're screwed.

 

[dantheman68]

no i did the push the pedal down then friend holds the lever under-hood, and pull up on the clutch... 1 click, no change... i guess ill try the method you outline

 

[TYSHO]

Where in the world did you get that method?

You do know that when you prop up on the clutch pedal, it takes all of the tension on the cable away? This is what allows you to move the quadrant manually and why it's important to let go of the clutch pedal once you positioned the quadrant where you want it.

 

[dantheman68]

well i didnt know how all that stuff worked... i read it on the forum... just goes to show that you shouldnt belive everything you hear... your way makes much more sense