Front LCA replacement... Is this normal?

[jonheese]

I got new front LCAs from SHOsource, and I'm attempting to install this afternoon...

I got the old ones out without a problem, but when I try to fit the subframe-end in between the mounting flanges on the subframe, I find that the metal bushing/sleeve in the LCA is just too long to fit in there cleanly.

Comparing to the old one (which slides right in without a problem), the new one seems too wide (or long, depending on how you're thinking about it). The ends of the sleeve are knurled, so hammering (gently, so as not to ***** my new LCA) really does little good, especially since I'll need to fine-tune the final location in order to get the bolt in.

I measured the old and new sleeves, and the old one was right at about 2.290" and the new one 2.340", a difference of about 0.05". That doesn't sound like much, but trust me, it's enough to make it almost impossible to get it in there.

I tried prying on the subframe flanges a bit, thinking that maybe the old sleeve had been compressed by over-tightening and the flanges were bent inward, but I can't really get any good leverage, and I don't want to screw that up either.

I know some of you will probably say "Have you tried contacting SHOsource?", and I will do that if necessary, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something totally obvious here first. A quick search didn't reveal much, but I may not have used the best search terms...

Here are pics illustrating the problem, for those who think visually:

The subframe mounting flanges (I didn't measure this distance):

The old LCA bushing, O =~ 2.290"

The new LCA bushing, N =~ 2.340"

So is it normal to have so much trouble getting this in there? It's quite hard to do without the strut rod inserted in the LCA, but it's even harder with it, since the range of movement is limited by the strut rod.

Should I contact SHOsource? Any tricks to doing this? Thanks in advance.

 

[jonheese]

So that was the driver's side (hence the transmission in the first shot), and I just went out and tried the same on the passenger side...

Sure enough, same exact problem:

So if the problem is on my subframe (i.e. bent mounting flanges), then it was done the same on both sides...

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Interesting.

I just finished up with the same install, and the same lower control arms from SHO source. No problems though. They were snug, but by no means not hard to get in.

Id look good and close at the subframe, to see if the mounting tabs are bent at all. If they are, pry them open enough to allow the control arm to slip in.

if they are straight, I wouldnt hesitate to grind the bushing sleeves a bit.

 

[SeanMc]

I had to bend mine slightly as well.

 

[Racer X]

You, sir, have what looks to be the incorrect LCA. That looks a lot like a SLO LCA.

The SHO/ Police LCA will be as wide as your old LCA is at the bushing. The narrow version is for the SLO.

Reference pic:


The one in the pic (currently still on the car and in great shape) are Spicer. RockAuto used to carry them, but it seems like they don't anymore.

That said, sometimes the bushing is a bit off. You can shave it some, or pound it in, your call.

 

[rubydist]

The bushing length is the same in either case (SHO or slo)

The situation you have is normal. You need to pry the tabs slightly apart so the new part fits in there. Then, when you tighten it all up, you are certain that the inner sleeve of the bushing is securely clamped in the tabs so it can do its job correctly.

 

[jonheese]

I had to bend mine slightly as well.

Any suggestions on how one would go about bending them? I didn't spend a lot of time thinking of bending methods, but I couldn't get them to budge much more than maybe 5-10 thous with a couple half-hearted efforts.

You, sir, have what looks to be the incorrect LCA. That looks a lot like a SLO LCA.

The SHO/ Police LCA will be as wide as your old LCA is at the bushing. The narrow version is for the SLO.

Ya know, I meant to mention that in my original post... In the item description on SHOSource.com, it specifically says: "These are the SHO specific control arms which are thicker then the regular Taurus control arms," but when comparing my old ones with the new ones, I noticed the difference in thickness. I'll definitely be sending a note to the SHOsource guys about that...

That said, sometimes the bushing is a bit off. You can shave it some, or pound it in, your call.

Okay, thanks. I was a little wary of grinding the ends of the bushing, mostly because it's knurled on the end and I wasn't sure if it would be bad to grind that off.

The bushing length is the same in either case (SHO or slo)

The situation you have is normal. You need to pry the tabs slightly apart so the new part fits in there. Then, when you tighten it all up, you are certain that the inner sleeve of the bushing is securely clamped in the tabs so it can do its job correctly.

Gotcha, thanks. Any suggestions as far as how to bend the tabs? There isn't a whole ton of room to maneuver or get any kind of big prying implement in there...

 

[LOUDSHO92]

You, sir, have what looks to be the incorrect LCA. That looks a lot like a SLO LCA.

The SHO/ Police LCA will be as wide as your old LCA is at the bushing. The narrow version is for the SLO.

Reference pic:


The one in the pic (currently still on the car and in great shape) are Spicer. RockAuto used to carry them, but it seems like they don't anymore.

That said, sometimes the bushing is a bit off. You can shave it some, or pound it in, your call.

They are SHO arms. You should see the SLO arms...

 

[jonheese]

They are SHO arms. You should see the SLO arms...

Yeah, I just checked out Ingalls' site...

Here's the SLO arm:
http://www.ingallseng.com/ik8427-control-arm-with-ball-joint.html

And here's the SHO arm:
http://www.ingallseng.com/ik8579-control-arm-w-ball-joint.html

So what's up with the thicker ones in RacerX's pic (and the original ones I had on my car)? Extra-thick ones? Old design?

I guess you're saying not to worry about it then?

 

[Eric VerValin]

I just did it a week ago... every time I do em it seems like I have to bend those out a bit to get them to fit. Use a big crescent wrench and bend it out that way, or maybe a big pair of vise grips... It'll squeeze back when you tighten it.

 

[jonheese]

I just want to publicly thank Mike, Kurt, and Matt, of SHOSource. Within minutes of e-mailing them about this, I've gotten a prompt reply and offers for advice and help, as well as correction of the notion that I got the wrong part.

I didn't mean to drag these guys through the mud, so I just want to make sure it's clear that I am absolutely happy with the service they provide.

RacerX, I think the thicker LCAs that you and I have are just a different design, but I believe that the ones SHOSource sells (that are listed on Ingalls' site for 3 times as much $$$) are the correct SHO units.

Thanks again to everyone who helped.

 

[jonheese]

Aha! Vise grips... I didn't even think of that. I'll give that a crack tomorrow. I hope my little spindly arms (speaking of myself here, not the LCAs ) can put enough oomph into it to bend them far enough.

I've got some big crescent wrenches I can probably wedge in there to get some good leverage too.

Thanks, Eric.

 

[Shopower400]

They are a VERY snug fit!! But they WILL go in there! I did both last summer with the help of a 12 rack to help ease the nerves!

 

[jonheese]

Yeah, well "snug" is definitely the understatement of the week to describe what I'm seeing here. There is absolutely no way to force these in here AND have enough ability to move them around to line up the bolt hole in the bushing with the ones in the flanges.

I spent almost an hour trying to finesse it in there, and once it was roughly in place, I spent another 20 minutes or so trying to get the bolt holes to line up, but no dice. Then I spent another 5-10 minutes pulling and prying on it just to get it back out! It's that tight.

When I pick it back up tomorrow, I will be bending the tabs outward to give more clearance, or, failing that, I will be grinding the bushing down a bit.

 

[SHO SPD]

I will be disappointed if those are the only replacement arms available. Clearly the arm is thinner than what you took off. Im not looking forward to replacing mine with thinner arms than the factory ones. Anyone try moog or something?

edit: Moog part number K8577, looks like an exact match to the factory ones. I would go that route

 

[Rockledge]

Several years ago I was able to get the beefier arms from Napa (I'm not sure what they offer these days). My Napa arms look identical to the arm in the center of the pic. The arms I replaced looked more like the other two.



I recall someone commenting that the beefier arms are found most often on a Gen I...

 

[SHO-NUF93]

The Pro Grade-line Raybestos arms are identical to the larger one in the pic above. The bushing was a tight fit in the frame, but not hardly a PITA. Did them, along with my inner & outer tie rods last year(all Raybestos). Moog, TRW, Mevotech, and AC Delco all offer the LCAs as well, but I've never laid eyes on them. The Raybestos also had greasable balljoints.