Front camber excessive negative

[itwonder]

Current camber RF= -1.9, LF= -1.4 degrees. I cut the spot welds, which revealed the adjustment slots in the strut towers have only about 1/8" of space available in the positive direction, which, assuming my math is correct, will only take out about 0.3 degrees of the negative camber. I need more like 3/8" to take out 1 degree. Is grinding the slots 1/4" larger a reasonable thing to do, or does that sound like a hack job? Past comments on the adjustable mounts, Ingalls or Moog seem somewhat mixed; not sure what to do.

 

[TimboSHO]

What springs do you have?

I elongated the holes in one of my SHOs, but to get it right, the spring rubbed on the inner fender (that one had been smashed at one point though).

I did the moog adjustable mounts on the wagon, which had eibachs and tokicos along with drilling the spot welds. I went from -1.5 to 0 like that. You have to pay attention to the caster while you adjust the camber as well. I liked the mounts, but they raised the car about 1/2" and I kept re-tightening the top nut until I got wise and put some loc-tite on them! After that I had no issues, and raising 1/2" didn't make a difference because I had cargo coils on the back.

 

[itwonder]

Thanks for the input. The springs are cargo coils, with 1 coil cut, on Monroe Sensatrac struts. I'm very pleased with that setup.

 

[jayro]

I have Intrax and Koni's. I broke the spot welds on mine to give some more adjustment, though I can't say if it would have been enough to get the negative camber out. I did it so I could get more negative camber for track purposes. Since then I have slotted the towers and added MOOG adjustable mounts along with adjustable control arms in the back. In your case I would think that breaking the welds would get you close enough in the camber department to eliminate any tire wear issues.