Front bumper paint chips off. Maybe get 3M clear bra??

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LittleMichael

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Over the past year, I've had to take my SHO into the shop 2 times to touch up some paint that chipped off my front bumper. The first time was my fault, I scraped a parked car as I was parallel parking. I was actually really happy that it only left a dime-sized chip, with no dents. The 2nd time was for another chip, and I'm not sure where it came from.

I drive around 40 miles a day, mostly highway. I'm thinking that it may just be wear and tear, but I'm a little unhappy on how the pain is just chipping away. I have about 2 or 3 noticable spot where the pain has chipped off. The hood, thankfully, has not chipped. I know the Taurus has special enhancements to help prevent against dings and chips, but does the front bumper use this enhancement, or is it just the metal hood?

Has anyone else experienced this problem? I'm wondering if anyone purchased the 3M clear bra to help with this problem. The 3M bra seems like it may be worth the money. If I get the bra, should I have the front bumper repainted prior to installation, or will the 3M clear bra hide the little chips?
 

steve142857

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I have an appointment with my car dealer for a front bumper repaint job as well as the loading platform of the rear bumper. Since I bought the car second hand last February, it has been getting on my nerves as I take good care of all the car, but there are a lot of chips and scratches. I purchased from Lamin-x the bug shield for the front of the hood and the rear bumper guard. But, I might end up buying that 3M protection bra to protect the front bumper.. don't want ending up paying another 200-300$ for a paint job of the bumper...
So, I am wondering as well if anyone else has installed that 3M bra and how it works in term of protection, installation and look.
Thanks!
 

nynd

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Clearshielded the car since the day I picked it up - looks just like it did after 30,000 Kms. Great protection if your the type to get bent out of shape on any rock chip. This would be the 5th car I've had done... no yellowing, no peeling.. thick protecting covering.
 

LittleMichael

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Thanks for the info.

Let me know how your appt goes Steve. I'm realling leaning towards it, but the big decision for me is whether to paint the bumper prior to installation.
 

steve142857

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Thanks for the info.

Let me know how your appt goes Steve. I'm realling leaning towards it, but the big decision for me is whether to paint the bumper prior to installation.
I figured better paint it before otherwise it will immortalize the chips forever behind that 3M...
 

steve142857

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Ask around - I think you need to wait for the paint to cure before covering it up...
I will have it painted and in a few days I will order the ·M bra... just waiting for some comments on it before ordering it... there is also a Lamin-x clear film 2ft wide by 8 ft long sold for 169$... I have had great experience with that company and like their products...
 

SHO U UP

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Doesn't the 3M clear bra show lines though once installed? I looked at a black M series that had one installed and it really stood out. Maybe with the color of the paint makes a difference, but it just appeared to have scratches on the hood/fender where the lines were.
 

markathome

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There's another post here on the forum regarding paint protection film (PPF).
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=117604

I used Avery Nano-Fusion. Pretty cool stuff...and so far, I'm really pleased. I did lots of research regarding the different materials. BTW, yes, you have to let the paint cure before application.
Google the different products...and talk to those with experience, cruise the forums, etc. Keep in mind, for most warranty purposes, each manuf requires the installer to be certified with their particular product. So, you have to be careful in asking installers that are certified about their thoughts on the product as they are often invested with a particular brand/manuf.
I strongly recommend PPF....
:)
 

SHOrod

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Ask around - I think you need to wait for the paint to cure before covering it up...

The rule of thumb the paint supply store told me (this was probably 10 years ago) was to wait 30 days in summer months or 90 days in winter months before applying way to a freshly painted surface. This was to allow sufficient time for all the solvents to evaporate out, otherwise the wax would trap the solvents and the paint would never fully cure. I would imagine a PPF would be every bit as bad.

30 days seems somewhat extreme but like others have, I'd too suggest checking with the shop that does the paint work as to how long to wait before covering the fresh paint.

-Rod
 

steve142857

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The rule of thumb the paint supply store told me (this was probably 10 years ago) was to wait 30 days in summer months or 90 days in winter months before applying way to a freshly painted surface. This was to allow sufficient time for all the solvents to evaporate out, otherwise the wax would trap the solvents and the paint would never fully cure. I would imagine a PPF would be every bit as bad.

30 days seems somewhat extreme but like others have, I'd too suggest checking with the shop that does the paint work as to how long to wait before covering the fresh paint.

-Rod
I called the director of the body shop division of my Ford dealer to ask him if it was okay for me to have the car cleaned and waxed on the following day of the painting job and he told me that there was absolutely no problem. They cook the paint, so 20 minutes after, the car can be outside... The long process is to sandbalst it, apply the primer, put the base coat and then to apply the clear, once that is done they cook it all and the car is ready... So I asked if I needed to wait a few weeks before putting the 3M bra and same answer, once the paint is cooked, it is fixed and nothing more will happen to the paint... Actually the more I wait, the more chances I have to get it chipped with little rocks etc. So I might just order the 3M bra or equivalent this week and apply it about a week after the paint job...
I don't know much about this, but I figured that if the guy told me so (and he has been in the business for 30 years and working with Ford product for most of it), I can trust the guy. After all, I presume that if something happens, HE is the one that told me it was ok, so HE would have to re-do the job...
 

Showgun

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That's actually what I've heard too Steve: that once it's 'cooked' - it's done: you can do anything with it that you please.
 

SHOrod

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I would get it in writing. I had a car repainted (again this was 10 years ago with a solvent based 2-stage paint) and the day after I picked it up it got egged. I cleaned the dry egg off and the clear under the dried egg was spiderwebbed and cloudy. I called the body shop and they said there was nothing I could do, they bake the paint so it was as cured as it would get. However, after 2 days in the sun, any sign of the egg was gone, I didn't even need to wet sand the area. When I was telling the story to the guy behind the counter at the paint store, he told me about the 30 and 90 days mentioned above. The baking process gets the paint hard enough to handle without risk for damage, but does not fully cure the paint. He proceeded to tell me about a guy that just had a T-bird painted black and wet sanded. The guy took the car home and waxed it all up. Within a month the paint wrinkled up. At the time this store sold DuPont and Transtar paints so it wasn't inferior paint products.

I'm not saying the information above is definitely correct, but I would suggest you get it in writing that the body shop and paint warranty will not be voided by covering the fresh paint with any type of protective film intended for automotive finishes.

-Rod
 

LittleMichael

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Thanks for all of this great info.

Question: What happens if you apply the 3M clear bra without the paint being fully cured? Will that cause some sort of distortion?
 

SHOrod

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The coating (3M or other) would prevent the solvents from fully evaporating (hence not fully cured) and the paint would not properly bond to the primer/body panel. My concern would be either the coating would stick to the paint and peel off the panel, leaving either a bare surface or maybe primer (depends on how well cured the primer was), or years later when you attempt to remove the coating due to cloudiness or scratches, it would take the paint off with it.

This is my speculation though and again not something I've personally witnessed.

-Rod
 

Crash712us

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I recommend waiting the month. I work factory for 25yrs, and we bake for much longer and much high temps. And the paint isn't still fully cured.
 

steve142857

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I recommend waiting the month. I work factory for 25yrs, and we bake for much longer and much high temps. And the paint isn't still fully cured.
What about cleaning the car and waxing it in the following days, any recommendations as to how long I should wait? I had an appointment scheduled this Friday for clean and wax, but Cancelled it after reading all your posts. The piaint job is scheduled for tomorrow... Even if I asked the responsible of the body shop dept at my Ford dealer, I am now not too comfortable with having it cleaned and waxed a couple of days after...
Thanks!
Steve
 

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