Front brake job

[DavidT]

I have searched around for a simple step by step process in changing out the pads and rotors, to not much avail.
I humbly admit that this is my FIRST brake job start to finish by myself.
I've already bought the rotors and pads.
I took the caliper assembly off, but now I am stumped. I THOUGHT the rotor was held on simply by the wheel. It APPEARS that it is held on by a large nut at the hub (?).
Anyone care to give tips, advice, or step by step procedure?

Also, NOW would be a great time to lower my car 5/8". But I really don't feel real comfortable doing it. I have read the procedure at v8sho.com over and over. While it seems simple enough, to an internet mechanic, it could be disaestrous

 

[Ian Macoomb]

You don't need to remove the hub nut. Just remove the caliper bracket and hammer on the rotor. If it's been on a while it might be hard to get off.

The first couple of times I did the front brakes the rotor was rusted to the hub. I hammered on a lot and it didn't break free. It finally came off with a bigger hammer. Now I wire wheel the hub to remove rust and spread a bit of anti-seize on it and the rotors come off fairly easily.

 

[SHOZ123]

Might be some thin quick nuts on it too.

Use a C clamp to push the piston in all the way. Might as well get new slider pins and boots too.

 

[luigisho]

David, this is one of those instances where the regular Taurus manual will come in handy. You can grab a Chilton's or Haynes manual at any autoparts store.
Hopefully this link works http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1b/03/21/0900823d801b0321.jsp

If you are just replacing the pads you can do this by: getting the caliper off, Using a large C-clamp and a small piece of wood or the old brake pad to compress the piston back (open the ps fluid resivior and maybe remove some fluid if it's really full as compressing the piston will push fluid back into the system), then replace the pads, reinstall the caliper, check the ps fluid and top off if necessary, replace the ps fluid cap and pump the brakes to adjust the piston. Repeat on the opposite side.
If you are replacing the rotors you will need to remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper brackets to the hub, swap rotors and reinstall. You will need threadlocker for the cal. bracket bolts and the slider pin bolts as well.
Make sure your slider pins are in good shape. If not, get new ones.

It makes things easier if you take 2 lug nuts and tighten them so the rotor sits flush and tight while you install the pads and caliper.

Don't remove the brake hose from the caliper unless you are replacing a caliper or just feel like bleeding the system of air that will be introduced by doing this.

 

[DavidT]

very helpful, guys. Thanks
So, I don't HAVE to touch the slider pin bolts, right? Unless I just WANT to replace them?
So threadlocker is a must on the caliper bracket bolts?
And do I need to apply anything to the surface of the new rotor?

 

[SHOZ123]

You should definately pull the slider pins out. This is one of the biggest headaches on Ford disc brakes. Much more of a problem in the rear that the front. Use removable thread locker on both the slider pin and the bracket bolts. You can buy a tube of silicone grease for the pins.

 

[Ian Macoomb]

Yes, definitely **** up the slider pins. Pull them out and wipe the old **** off. I spray some brake cleaner inside the caliper brackets where the slide pins reside. Then get some brake **** and **** them up real good.

I've never used the thread locker on the threads and I've never had a problem. Then again I have my brakes off at least once a year or more. Paul and Larry have had problems losing brake bolts so maybe some locktite may be a good idear.

 

[DavidT]

OK, thanks.
Is BLUE threadlocker good enough... it is all I have, but I can pick some red up if I need to.
And I have heavy duty wheel bearing grease, and white lithium grease... would either of these suffice, or do I need specifically silicone grease?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

OK, thanks.
Is BLUE threadlocker good enough... it is all I have, but I can pick some red up if I need to.
And I have heavy duty wheel bearing grease, and white lithium grease... would either of these suffice, or do I need specifically silicone grease?

More than sufficient should you choose to use it, but as mentioned it's not really needed.

Bearing grease would be fine, so would silicone dielectric compound. I would not recommend the white lithium grease.

 

[SHOZ123]

I use a green loctite. It is removable with a bit of effort. OEM uses it on the caliper mounting bolts. I use it now on the slider pins too after loosing a bolt and ruining a caliper and the new pads.

Got to love the AutoZone lifetime warranty on these.

 

[DavidT]

Well, I got 'er done. However, the brake fluid (now to the full line in the reservoir) looks really dirty. I am going to change the fluid.

Just to double check my work, when installing the new pads, I left the caliper BRACKET on the rotor and dropped in the new pads. Then I installed the caliper, pressing firmly over the pads to seat it, to bolt it in at the slider pins. Is this right?

 

[luigisho]

Sounds correct. You bolted the caliper in before you seated the pads by pressing the brake pedal right? You just need to make sure you push the piston in far enough so you don't really force the caliper over the pads and damage the seal around the piston. It sounds like you figured it out though.

 

[jedhead]

I use Loctite 272 high temp red myself.

Bob

 

[DavidT]

Luigisho, you and everyone else have been so very helpful. Thanks!!!

More than sufficient should you choose to use it, but as mentioned it's not really needed.

Bearing grease would be fine, so would silicone dielectric compound. I would not recommend the white lithium grease.

Chris, would you believe that I am just now getting around to changing these SLO pads out that you and Kirk pointed out 3 years ago at the Nashville camfest. The slowdown shimmy is what pushed me over the edge... bought new rotors from Autozone. The old rotors had about a 3/8 inch surface area of debris buildup around the outside edge... just goes to sho how much bigger the sho pad is over the slo.