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93VantuckySHO

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Pretty sure I have a leaking crank seal or cam seal. The CrankPS seems to not be affected, the car hasn't stalled out and runs very well. Not really 100% sure. Fixed my pan leak and verified it was sealed.

It's at 131K, I'm sure it is well past due for a 60k service. Seems like getting the upper stuff done as well would be ideal while I'm doing the front 60k? I also want to do cam seals while I'm at it. I've heard the cam setup is scary :)

Should I get new pulleys and a tensioner? They don't seem to be making any noise now.. I would hate to skimp and have to do it again soon after.

Should be bullet proof after this..
 

rubydist

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my experience is that a serious front leak is much more likely to be from a cam seal or ps pump than from the crank seal, but by all means replace the crank seal and cam seals while you are in there doing the work.

I have seen atx cars at 180k with factory timing belt, so they can last a long time...

typically, the pulleys are still good and do not need replacement, but if they are noisy or sound dry when you spin them over, then replace them. the atx tensioner is either going to be fine, or dead - I have never seen one in between. if you have to put it in a vise to compress it, then it is good.

imho, the easiest way to do cam seals is to pull the cam bearing cap. that is trivial if you have the valve covers off for new gaskets, which you should also do at 130k.

the cam setup is way cool, and not hard or scary at all - you just have to be careful to position the cam sprockets and crank sprocket exactly right when you put on the new timing belt.
 

jimtash

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Do the top end as well if you're pulling the cam seals like is written above. Measure the shim gaps. Check for dry rotted valve cover gaskets and RTV the plug tube seals, even new ones, as a preventative measure. Check the vacuum hoses for dry rot as well and replace them while the runners are off the engine. New wires and plugs wouldn't hurt and RockAuto has some really good deals on them right now.

My V-8 only has 84K on the clock but the valve cover gaskets were hard as a rock and leaked like a sieve.
 

93VantuckySHO

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Planned on doing the VC gaskets and everything above it. Cleaning the intake and should probably replace the vac lines anyways. New PCV and anything else I can see while I'm in there.

Going with motorcraft plugs and wires if I can find them. Going to see if I can will call these at SHOsource..

Should be set for the motor after that it sounds like? Trans needs a pan gasket and filter I'm sure. Power steering isn't as surgy after airing tires to 35, I started the turkey-baster method anyways.

After this little project.. next will be suspension :)
 

jimtash

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I run NGK copper cores simply because the plugs are easy to replace and copper is a much better conductor on top of putting less stress on the ignition system. The V-8 gets the platinum plugs because the surge tank has to come off making it much more labor intensive. Just tossing it out there because you know what you're doing.
 

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