FPR replacement?

[todras]

I replaced my FP and am still having idle issues. BTW ECT, IAC and TPS have been replaced in search of this fuggin problem. Car has 150k on it so it's not a total waste.

I'm going to pull the vac line to the FPR to see if that does anything. If it does then I need to know hor to replace the FPR. Do I have to remove the manifold to replace? I also need to reset the computer to see what codes I'm getting now since I had a ton saved in there last time I checked.

Found this but it's vague to me.
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=32481&highlight=FPR+removal

 

[Sho-Driver]

Check the fuel pressure at the rail. If you are good there, then your fuel needs should be okay up to the injectors. Have you replaced the filter?

If you have to replace the FPR (unlikley), it is best to remove the manifold. From there it is self-explanitory. If you try to remove it without taking the intake off, you could damage the FPR and it WILL leak. Same goes for installation. If it does leak, it can be recrimped.

 

[sdpatt]

What is your engine doing to have idle problems? Symptoms?

 

[todras]

See last post
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=40282

Ignore the 30F part. Doing it all the time since it has warmed to 40. Basically idles like crap. Jumps up and down and wants to stall. If I'm easy to let the revs drop it's usually ok but I'm sick of babying it. Some times when it's colder the revs will start to flutter even if the revs were once at 750. :cuss:

 

[Huntervf]

Did bypassing the FPR do anything for you?

 

[Slo-Sho]

Check the MAF wiring harness for looseness/corrosion. One other resort is to swap the MAF with a known good unit.

 

[Huntervf]

I've been trying to help Todd on this one for awhile now...I don't think he's swapped the MAF but he's cleaned it numerous times, as well as the IAT. He's replaced the IAB, ECT and the fuel pump. No CE light (right Todd?) but codes showed bad 02 sensors and a whole bunch of fuel pump codes (not just the standard 542.) Nothing about MAF or idle speed.

 

[Slo-Sho]

Cleaning a bad MAF isn't going to benefit the car any. Usually the CE light will not trip unless the voltages are on the extreme high/lo side of it's metering range. Hey, it's a possibility...or a vacuum leak somewheres.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Have you run the KOER tests, specifically the cylinder balance test?

 

[todras]

Cleaning a bad MAF isn't going to benefit the car any. Usually the CE light will not trip unless the voltages are on the extreme high/lo side of it's metering range. Hey, it's a possibility...or a vacuum leak somewheres.

I've always thought it was the MAF. Hunter is like no no it will trip a code.

 

[todras]

What will that tell?

 

[todras]

Have you run the KOER tests, specifically the cylinder balance test?

What will that tell?

 

[Yamaha V6]

Bad MAF will NOT always trip a code. I had a bad one on my 91, replaced it & no problems after.

 

[todras]

Bad MAF will NOT always trip a code. I had a bad one on my 91, replaced it & no problems after.

I swear if it's the MAF I'm going to beat you Chris.

 

[Sho-Driver]

Bad MAF will NOT always trip a code. I had a bad one on my 91, replaced it & no problems after.

Agreed, I've swapped MAF's in SHO's and found that one was bad because the 'tuned' car was no longer tuned.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

What will that tell?

It will tell you if one or more of the cylinders aren't contributing their fair share, which might point to a possible injector problem, weak coil, low compresssion, etc. which could be the source of your rough idle.

 

[todras]

It's not a rough idle. It's a fluttering/jumping idle.

 

[revhardSHO]

Have you checked fuel pressure at the rail?

 

[todras]

I think I solved the problem last night. Picked up a new MAF for $85 & installed it.

Took it for a drive and the issue was better. I reved the car up at a light to see what the revs did and it stalled on me. Decided to return home and reset the computer and idle. Was looking around after disconnecting the battery and noticed that I still had my old TPS sensor on. During the last time I was trying to diagnose an idle problem last year that went away; I decided to put my original Ford part back on for some unknown reason since it didn't fix the issue. Decided to put the new one back on while the battery was draining. Restarted the car and drove it around last night and couldn't get my issues to return! So I'm not sure if the issue was a TPS or MAF. I guess I could swap the old MAF on to see what happens but I don't want to touch the car now since it's idling great.

I guess it's good I had this issue because it made me swap the FP out so it shouldn't leave me stranded since the car has 147k on it. The alt. is the only thing original that could do that now.


Thansk to all for the help! How could I diagnose w/o SHOForum?!