first sho.. build advice please

[tmidz87]

I have a 92 sho 3.0 mtx and I am currently pulling the motor to fix a few things and im looking for some advice on squeezing some more power out of it. I would like to invest $1500-$2000 in the rebuild but don't know much about the sho. Figured this would be a great place to get some pointers in the right direction. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[93rev2sev]

Plan on $500 for the gaskets and rod bearings.

 

[DJSHO91]

1st and foremost, get all the maintenance up to date. Then, looking at the car as a total performance package, I would suggest the following as your best Bang-4-$:

1) Replace factory y-pipe with a less-restrictive unit. Some are listed as high-performance and some aren't, but most have the less-restrictive construction(vs the factory unit).

2) Install a set of Sub-frame connectors. These will greatly enhance the responsiveness of the car as a total package. As a firmer platform, the car can put down power more efficiently along with riding and handling at a higher level.

3) Install an ungraded brake system. Whether the 96' Big Brake upgrade or other brake packages available, they will greatly improve the overall performance package.

There are many other options available, but these will establish the basic platform from which everything else can develop from. For details of each of options, use of the "search" option will provide detailed information for your use.

Set up your plan in detail and then follow your plan. Enjoy the work and post photos as your plans proceed.

Welcome to the SHO insanity!

 

[LOUDSHO92]

The y-pipe is a great place to start: SHO Source

I would start with a 60k first doing the valves, plugs and wires: 60k

You would also need to do the timing belt as well along with the water pump and CPS.

 

[Ocnaj]

I too would start with the Y-pipe. How did the 3.0 run before it was pulled?

Where in PA are you located? I'm near Pittsburgh.

 

[rbruso]

Why are you pulling the motor? Sure, it's easier to do things like rod bearings on a stand, but pretty much everything is doable in the car if there isn't any machine work required. And a basic refresh shouldn't need any machine work. It's amazing how durable these blocks are. It's not like some old school V-8s where a rebuild needed to happen at 100k and required a ton of work.

If it does actually need work, it might be cheaper and easier to pick up a known good 3.0 (or go with a 3.2 conversion) and do the maintenance on it.

60K front and top, new rod bearings for insurance and the rear main if it's leaking. If you're pulling the heads for valve stem seals you could pull the pistons and degunk the rings if you're really ambitious (and the engine has 200k+ miles)

 

[19sho90]

Yup. I was in the same boat as you about a year ago. I went through fixed all of my oil leaks(Or 80% of them) made sure everything was up to par(Previous owner did a full 60k) all i need now is rod bearings. (Only has 82k on her so not too worried) Changed my Air Filter Fuel Filer Plugs Wires. and then i Did a a Ported and Polished intake, Big Bore Butterfly's, and a cat-less y-pipe all from sho source(All the performance upgrades you can really feel, and was about 900$ after shipping and everything.(Also got a powder coated intake)

 

[tmidz87]

Its got a oil leak in the back of the engine somewhere and im pulling the motor cuz I want to clean it up. I just lost my license so I figured its time for a project. How do I go about polishing the intake mani and are rod bearings a pain like on other cars? I was thinking about

markvII throttle body
Y-pipe
Fabricating a ram air system
Deleting the ac compressor (doesn't work)
Shortening the shifter
Big brake kit (rear brakes don't work at all currently) (any ideas y)
Plugs, wires, fuel filter
Timing belt
Water pump

Is there anything im missing?

I want it to be done right and not regret putting it back together to find I forgot something

It has 133k on it
was thinking bout cams valves etc but then I saw the price tag lol

 

[Phoenix]

Your first mod on the list is useless on a lightly modded sho. Plus its not a TB its a mark8 MAF (plus you need a chip or a tuner to make that happen)

 

[rubydist]

also on your list:

ram air is a waste of time unless you plan on driving faster than 150 mph.

your rear brakes not working is likely due to the steel brake lines at the rear of the car getting rusty and squeezing shut so no brake fluid can pass through them to the brakes. fixing that should be on the top of your list.

when you do the timing belt and water pump, you need to also do the 3 cam seals, the front crank seal and the crank sensor to avoid having to pull it all apart again shortly to do those.

oh, and stop doing whatever it was that cost you your license.

 

[rbruso]

Big brake kit (rear brakes don't work at all currently) (any ideas y)

First place to check is the rubber lines to the rear calipers. The clip rusts and slowly squeezes the lines closed. Second place to look is the proportioning valve mounted above the rear arms. Is the load lever still attached to the LCAs?

Can you bleed the rears? The wheel has to be supported to lift the load lever high enough to make fluid flow past the proportioning valve, so you need to do it on the ground, on a drive on lift or on ramps.

 

[SHOtime2511]

Usually the rear lines are prone to collapse casuing the calipers to stick.
Get all your maintenance up to date first,replace old hoses,belts,ext.
As far as mods,I'd start with suspension and brakes.
Add a Y pipe and maybe a little intake work like BBB's and ported runners.

After that go big or go home N2o or F/I...

 

[tmidz87]

I forgot to mention a tuner for it above n yes ur correct I did mean mad

Wouldn't a ram air kit work better then a k&n drop in?

 

[tmidz87]

I forgot to mention a tuner for it above n yes ur correct I did mean mad

Wouldn't a ram air kit work better then a k&n drop in?

maf* damn auto correcting smartphones lol

 

[SHOtime2511]

Screw K&N,keep your paper filter.