First mods on my 2010 SHO- please reply ; )

[steve142857]

Hey guys, (first thread, but kinda long lol!)

I have been reading many threads and I have to admit, you guys are very motivating me to start modifying my SHO. I just purchased it about a month and a half ago with 35K km on it... Eventhough I bought an extra waranty for 6 years 120,000 km, I want to extract as much juice as possible out of it without jeopardizing its reliability.
My first mods will be (and I already had my tuner Johnny Motorsport in Laval, Quebec order the parts) :
H&R springs
Airaid CAI
Custom tunes (I already have my SCT X3 that I was using in my previous Fusion V6)
My questions now :
Do the springs need special attention when installed so that the ride still not too rough? I heard guys with civics that wanted to vomit after having installed them, but their car didn't have adjustable shocks... What about our SHO?
With the tune and the Airaid CAI, will it sounds meaner? I would like to hear more the engine than now. In my Fusion, it was night and day after CAI and tune. I don't want to start modifying the exhaust... Is there a resonator that we can remove that can make a difference too?
Finally, I supposed we can boost the psi with the SCT X3... What increase in psi would you recommend to appreciate more power but without messing up with the engine and other parts? Again, I don't want to start to modify intercooler or radiator yet.
Thank you so much guys... I invite Darreli, Eco Brick Bob, Showgun, BDP, Zeus and all the others that I have followed over the last weeks that motivated me to join the «performance team» of SHO's...

By the way, I am still impressed of how that sleeper can perform... I am looking forward to bring it to the drags, but here in Montreal, it only opens early May. I will post my numbers/videos. You can check on youtube under steve142857 my videos so far, but unfortunatelly, the ones for the SHO were filmed with my ****** cell and there is a lag with the sound. When I see the numbers and times published for the car, I believe that they are under rated, or is it my car that is faster?

So far, I have raced Mustang GT 2005 and 2008 (they only had CAI as mods) 0-120 kph and won by 2 cars. Also : MR2 turbo 1991, 0-120 1 car, Civic SI 2007 (for sure) 0-120 3 cars, G37S with 2 people in it 40-140 2 cars, S5 (my friend doesn't know how to launch though) 0-120 2 cars in front, M35X 2006 0-140 4 cars, RAM Hemi 2010 0-120 3 cars and Accord Coupé (that one was impressively fast and the guy told me he was stock) 40-160 2 cars. The only car that beat me so far is a Skyline 1991 with 418 HP at the wheels... 0-160kph 3 cars behind but he started to pull a lot form 100kph...

Looking forward to see how mods will improve and mostly to read your opinions and comments:thankyou:.

Cheers all and enjoy your rides!

Steve

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

I have H & R's on my EB Flex. Also running smaller size extra load summer tires. Rides firmer(NOT AT ALL HARSH) but handles terrific. On Flex the drop is even greater than the SHO. Spring rates likely are different due to difference in weights.

Not many CAI options. I made my own before AirRaid came out. If I hadn't, would have bought it. MY IAT temps are always pretty close to outside temp, unless sitting at idle in traffic, and then they come back down immediately. Not sure how SHO responds. Front ends of SHO & Flex are very different regarding open-ness. May benefit my EB Flex.

I have both sets of basic SCT Custom tunes from Torrie (Unleashed Tuning) and from Livernois for my SCT 3000. However, I have been working with Torrie who also lives in FL and who also had EcoBoost tunes available first.

To boost over 15 PSI, you need a 3 bar MAPv sensor, to replace the 2 Bar. Everything else is up to 3 bar status. You will also need to think about cooling your charge... with a W/M system. Ford's ECM monitors intake air temperatures in 3 places. The cooler the MCT (manifold charge temperature) readings, the more power you can safely produce. Another very critical pressure to monitor is Fuel Rail Pressure. It needs to be fairly consistant throughout the RPM's, Gears, when you are at WOT. Without adequate FRP, it is very easy to get a lean condition and we all know what happens then. Perhaps Darrell can shed some light as to minimum safe FRP, andmaximum Lambda readings under continuous periods of WOT.

Lots of variables!!! Good Luck.....

 

[steve142857]

Thanks for reply Bob,

2 things :

1 ) Did you need to make any special adjustments with installation of the H&R springs (camber bolts) or everuthing fit within specs?
2 ) Do you have the names for the monitors that you recommend and do you think they are necessary for my use if I boost to 13.5 PSI and drive the car to work and race a little at the red light when there is an opportunity? Otherwise I will bring it to the drag, but don't mind to wait between races.
Thanks and, BTW, good job on your brick as you call it!

 

[darreli]

Steve....Congrats on the purchase!

As far as "special adjustments" with the H&R's the verdict is out I think. I definately have some negative camber without changing out the bolts. BPD I believe is the one who found some bolts that work to get the alignment in spec. I have them but haven't installed them yet. I have no wear issues and I lowered the car with 400 miles on the odometer and I have about 18,000 now.

As far as boost, 13.5 pounds should be fine for daily driving. The issues are these cars are tough to tune (lots of new parameters) if your tuner is inexperienced with the Ecoboost platform....go slow! or go with someone that has done alot with these cars (you can see my signature for my choice...but to each there own. Livernois happens to be literally around the corner from me and they've been more than great to me)

Noticed your comment on squeezing as much juice as possible...but I'm not sure anyone really knows how much "juice" that is yet. I know a couple of people have blown an engine but I'm not sure either of them was from making too much power. I would say take it slow or go with a experienced tuner.

Good luck with your endeavors! These cars are alot of fun! Wish the aftermarket would kick in a little more but in due time I think.

Oops! Forgot to comment on EBB's post....My a/f ratio is 10.5 at WOT which is stock and I'm not really sure what the minimal FRP is...I've heard there is a HP pump that was suggested from some of the Ford engineers and I'm trying to get my hands on the part #. That's one of the reasons for me doing the meth inj, it will cut down on the needed fuel which I believe is the limiting factor on making more power right now. That and the heat generated which the meth will help with also. I'll be doing plenty of testing and posting as far as the meth goes....so stay tuned.

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

I am like Darrel. I bought the rear alignment bolts but haven't installed. When I installed my Conti DW's at about 6K, I had balance issues.. Had them Road Force balanced here locally with a real prima-donna guy. Wears gloves etc. Made them perfect. But when I got to IA, and by mid summer, had one out of balance and not ever within Road Force spec. Then I went ahead and installed H & R's. Installer said it was difficult to get rear in spec, but mostly just needed lots of strength. They aligned about 5 days later, wanting to have springs settle in. (and... R.F. balanced tire again) Since then I have over 10 K on suspension and over 14 K on tires. Everything is PERFECT. NO wear issues, no balance issues!

My A/F is based on Lambda and usually at .8 for both banks. 1.0 Lambda= 14.7-1.0
This makes it about 12 -1. You can review what W/M mfg recommend on their websites. (Snow, Alky Control, Devils Own, AEM and others.)

As for FRP... (according to my sources) the magic # to never go below, during WOT, is 1,500 PSI, and it's best to be above 1,800. Whatever the reasons... my FRP #s have been consistently very good. (Knock on Wood.....)

If you have a SCT tuner, you can use their logging software and pick your logging paramaters... The latest version of their software is Livelink 6.3 which came out at the end of Feb. You can download it from the SCT website. Need your SCT tuner S/N.
Your tuner should tell you what to log. (Up to 17 parameters + time stamp).

One thing about W/M injection... If your EB isn't tuned for it, it will actually hurt your times slightly....

I am looking forward to Darrel's POSTs on testing his W/M system.

With the F-150 EB now out... there will be more aftermarket parts for the EB, most of which we can use or adapt if we desire.

Forgot to mention my exhaust.... I have Magnaflow rear mufflers. I am waiting for Kirk at NESHO to make me a mid-pipe that will eliminate my 3rd cat & mid-muffler, replacing it with an x-pipe. We are setting it up so it will be bolt-in interchangeable with the stock piece, so I can go back to stock mid-pipe if it's too loud, or if necessary for dealer visits. This piece will also work on any gen 4 SHO, and can be a part of his custom Catsback exhaust.

 

[darreli]

Hey Bob.....your a/f at wot is 12? Seems a little lean for a boosted vehicle

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

Darrel.... you may know more than me....

My Torrie Tuned A/F Lambda numbers are very consistent at .79-.81.

In reviewing Logs on Stock Tune, the numbers were lower around .7 - .75 but did vary somewhat.

Do you have Lambda log numbers for your Livernois tunes?

I have 2 logs of Stage 4 Livernois tune and the Lambda numbers varied from .73- .79. They seemed to go down and then up and then down & up depending on RPM and gear.
\
Here is some info I found from 2 W/M system suppliers. The latter (RB Racing) is nearly 30 pages long. I just quoted the relative part.

From "Chance" at Devils Own W/M Systems

Just to give you an idea of a/f rations with different fuels.
I usually aim for 11.50 on gas which is pretty much 5.0 with methanol.

Note that Lambda is a ratio of ratios and is 1.0 exactly at the stoichiometric point for any given fuel. This table shows the approximate AFRs for a number different common fuels.

As fuel compositions are seasonal and regional, the AFRs shown here should be considered only as approximate.

Vout Lambda Petrol LPG Methanol Diesel
1.40 0.686 10.08 10.63 4.39 9.94
1.45 0.696 10.23 10.79 4.45 10.09
1.50 0.706 10.38 10.94 4.52 10.24
1.55 0.716 10.53 11.10 4.58 10.39
1.60 0.727 10.69 11.27 4.65 10.54
1.65 0.739 10.86 11.45 4.73 10.71
1.70 0.750 11.03 11.63 4.80 10.88
1.75 0.762 11.20 11.81 4.88 11.05
1.80 0.774 11.38 12.00 4.95 11.23
1.85 0.787 11.57 12.20 5.04 11.41
1.90 0.800 11.76 12.40 5.12 11.60
1.95 0.814 11.96 12.61 5.21 11.80
2.00 0.828 12.17 12.83 5.30 12.00
2.05 0.842 12.38 13.05 5.39 12.21
2.10 0.857 12.60 13.29 5.49 12.43
2.15 0.873 12.83 13.53 5.59 12.66
2.20 0.889 13.07 13.78 5.69 12.89
2.25 0.905 13.31 14.03 5.79 13.13
2.30 0.923 13.57 14.31 5.91 13.39
2.35 0.941 13.84 14.59 6.03 13.65
2.40 0.960 14.11 14.88 6.14 13.92
2.45 0.980 14.40 15.18 6.27 14.20
2.50 1.000 14.70 15.50 6.40 14.50
2.55 1.037 15.25 16.08 6.64 15.04
2.60 1.078 15.84 16.70 6.90 15.62
2.65 1.121 16.48 17.38 7.17 16.26
2.70 1.169 17.18 18.11 7.48 16.95
2.75 1.220 17.93 18.91 7.81 17.69
2.80 1.276 18.76 19.78 8.17 18.50
2.85 1.337 19.66 20.73 8.56 19.39
2.90 1.405 20.66 21.78 8.99 20.38

FROM AN ARTICLE by RB Racing......

Turbo gurus, blindly following false prophets, preach the doctrine of "You Can’t Run Them Too Rich" and demand that you slay the infidel detonation by rich-ening things ad-infinitium. They should have read Sir Harry’s Book, The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine, but as they say, those who do not know history are destined to repeat the same mistakes. Sir Harry Ricardo proved once and for all that you can rich-en things up to a point but, beyond this, detonation is going to rear it’s head no matter how much fuel you throw at it and, in fact, the extra fuel may increase the tendency to detonate! Going rich beyond the well-defined 12.5:1 boost maximum power air fuel ratio is going to cost you power.

Studies in the early part of the Second World War proved conclusively that as you add water you can lean out your overly rich mixtures as you raise your boost pressures. As Sir Harry Ricardo stated..."By the introduction of water...the fuel/air ratio could be reduced once again; in fact, with water injection, no appreciable advantage was found from the use of an over-rich fuel/air mixture". So much for those whose perspective begins with their birth date

1. Maximum Torque occurs at a 13.2:1 Air Fuel Ratio.
2. Transitional Fueling and Maximum Boost Air Fuel Ratios are about 12.5:1.
3. Water Injection is most efficient with a 50/50 water alcohol (or methanol) mixture.
4. Methanol, as an additive, is not a practical choice as it is prone to pre-ignition in higher than 50/50 percentages, is not safe to handle, and is not readily available. It's a good choice, but not necessarily the most practical one when you need some in a hurry. Methanol is usually found where racing fuels are sold.
5. Denatured (ethanol) alcohol, typically 95% pure, is available in paint, hardware, and Home Depot type stores in gallon containers for about $10.00. Expensive but available everywhere. Isopropyl alcohol can be used but it is often 30% or more water by content.
6. Water Injection allows ignition timing to be more aggressive or closer to stock. In other words boost does not automatically mean retard your timing.
7. Excessive amounts of ignition retard will cause a loss of power and overheating.
8. Water to Fuel ratios should be based on weight and not volume.
9 . Water weighs 8.33 lb per gallon.
10. Alcohol weighs 6.63 lb per gallon.
11. Air weighs .080645 lb per cubic foot. It takes about 150 cubic feet of air per 100 horsepower. It takes about 12 lb of air per 100 horsepower.
12. Water or Water / Alcohol to Fuel Ratios are between 12.5% to 25%. This means Air to Fluid Ratios are between 11.1:1 and 10.0:1 with water injection.
13. Maximum water delivery should be in higher load low to mid rpm ranges tapering somewhat at peak rpms where load is less.
14. Atomization of the water mixture is directly related to it effectiveness. Finer droplets cool the inlet charge better and with less mass they navigate the inlet plenum easier for more equal water distribution.
15. Don’t flow water through an intercooler.
16. Atomized water, just like fuel , does not like to make turns thus making accurate distribution something to think about. This is why port fuel injection is the norm. Water is a fluid just like your fuel. Using two staged nozzles at high pressure is the best practical solution. Using individual port nozzles is a bit complicated for a large # of cylinders and makes control difficult.
17. The introduction of water will allow higher boost pressures to be run without detonation. Higher pressures will increase torque. It’s always about torque.
18. Racing high octane gasoline should be used for all forms of competition and for higher than normal boost levels. Water injection as well as charge cooling should be used with racing gas. 91/92 Octane pump gas simply will not cut it. Water spray cooling of the intercooler is a good idea.
19. Fuel Injectors operate in the 1 Millisecond range (.001 second) and are not capable of long term usage for H20 as they will corrode or rust shut in a very short period of time. Unless a solenoid can open as fast as a fuel injector it should not be used to "pulse" water injection events as flow is not directly related to "duty cycle".
20. Varying voltage to water injection pumps or using similar schemes is a recipe for disaster. You have to eliminate the variables, not increase them.
21. Fuel Injection pumps cannot be used for water injection. Water is conductive. Gasoline is not. Water will corrode an efi pump shut in a very short period of time.
22. Water injection has a cooling effect on the engine head, valves, and cylinder. Exhaust temperatures (EGT) are largely unaffected at recommended water / fuel ratios.
23. The cooling of potential hot spots in the combustion chamber defeats pre-ignition, the most destructive form of uncontrolled or unplanned combustion.
24. Higher static compression ratios will require a higher percentage of water or water / alcohol.
25. No, water does not burn. We are not combusting the hydrogen in the H2O.
26. At around 13.2:1 or fuel air ratios of .75, EGT’s will peak.
27. People will try to selectively edit their way to get you to use water injection by stating "One can basically double the power output of an engine using water/methanol" and "It was used effectively in Formula 1 before being banned for adding too much power". This is pure bunk. Water or water/alcohol/methanol does not make power...superchargers and turbochargers make power. The cooling effect of the water injection only allows you to run higher boost pressures and leaner mixtures without engine damage. The increased density or higher pressure ratio is what makes the power, not the water. The last time we checked water wasn't a very good fuel. Water Injection definitely does not give "a 5-15% increase in fuel economy" as some marketers clain.
28. Ferrari suspended water in their fuel during their 1980’s Formula1 period. We don’t recommend that you try this...although Acetone will mix with water.

Comments???

Any of the Gen 1-2 & 3 SHO owners have an opinion on all of this???
You guys are the "Real" motor-heads!

 

[steve142857]

Thanks Darrel and Bob, I am going to see my tuner today and have now many questions for him. You guys answered me well, maybe too deep actually for my poor knowledge. lol. I will keep you posted of my decisions and soon, will be able to go to the track and verify the results. You can expect a few videos and time slips from me as well as what my tuner guy will have done to the car. Have a good day!

Steve

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

I likely knew far less than any of you about this a year ago. Not sure I understand it now, but can "spout off" what others say..

 

[Showgun]

Thanks Darrel and Bob, I am going to see my tuner today and have now many questions for him. You guys answered me well, maybe too deep actually for my poor knowledge. lol. I will keep you posted of my decisions and soon, will be able to go to the track and verify the results. You can expect a few videos and time slips from me as well as what my tuner guy will have done to the car. Have a good day!

Steve

Have fun with the mods Steve.....These guys will help you keep on the straight and narrow. Their knowledge base seems to have no bounds.
Bob here well he's just plain lovable too....

We all love vids too so post up ASATTID..........(as soon as the track is dry.)

I likely knew far less than any of you about this a year ago. Not sure I understand it now, but can "spout off" what others say..

Spout this!













"we love you".

 

[Unknown_Driver]

hey steve...

i heard napierville is open already

as for the hemi ram you should of pulled a lot more...

 

[zeus268]

Welcome aboard Steve! Can't wait to see some pics/vids of your car!

 

[steve142857]

Unknown driver : Is that true, it's opened? wow! I might go right next week then... We're you from? as for the Ram, it depends on their gear ratio (and maybe it was mod too), but when it is geared accordingly, their 0-100kph is done in 6.4 sec. according to books... and it is awd also, so from 0-120, 3 cars seems about it... see you in Napierville, I saw in your signature that you went there.

 

[steve142857]

Thanks Zeus...

So finally I went to see Johnny Motorsport in Laval and he told me that he was not impressed with the CAI from Airaid. Too much restriction and also the factory tubing from the air box to the engine passes from 3 inches to about 1.5 inches tube, which again is very restrictive. So, bottom line, I gave him the OK to be the guinea pig for a custom cold air intake. He will fabric out of aluminum or stainless steel a tubing that stars with a 3 inches circle diameter and on the turn he is going to convert it into an oval form so that the flow is the same but it will fit.
There seems to be a flexible tube (water in it) that goes true the tube next to the engine, so he needs to confirm what is in it and see if he can simply pass it on the side... Don't know if I am clear (in English, not always easy guys)...
Anyway, with this customized CAI and the tune, he told me I should be the fastest in this forum... watch out guys lol just kidding, but hey, he looks very motivated to make it happen, but at the same time, he wants to go progressively and if possible, not touch the boost. He thinks that just with that less restrictive and more efficient CAI, the boost should raise by 1.5-2 psi...
He is swamped right now, but he is ordering the parts (also HR springs) and we will do all at once, probably in two weekends.
That should give me the time to go to the track (apparently opened and I was not aware), test it stock and then appreciate the mods better.
I will film it stock, along with pics before any mods and for sure will do the same after mods.
I am excited to the idea...
Cheers all, appreciate your comments once again!
Steve

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

Went to Bradenton Strip last night (it's 1 AM now). Was HOT & very muggy. Not ideal weather for good runs.

Last run @ 9:55 PM was best. 74 deg and windows started to fog up at end of run!
Drove thru a thunderstorm about 15 min from track on way there. Summer-like FL weather pattern.

Turned a 13.116 @ 104.34 MPH 60 ft was 1.946. Left at around 2,000 rpm with T/C OFF. 1/8 mi time was 8.420 @83.21 mph.

If it had been 60 deg and sorta dry, I believe I would have been in the 12's! Not to bad for a 5 K BRICK!

As for your CAI design... sounds like Hennessey system that Darrel has.
Stock boost, from my logging is 13. PSI on my Flex. The key to performance is the MCT temp & boost. Unless there are few people running, the problem at the strip, is the wait, which heats everything up.

 

[Unknown_Driver]

the problem at the strip, is the wait, which heats everything up.

i roll up with the hood up until i get to the starting lane

was debating on an intercooler sprayer


oh well gotta debate on messing with warranty

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

i roll up with the hood up until i get to the starting lane

was debating on an intercooler sprayer


oh well gotta debate on messing with warranty

I tried to do a run that way.... But I had to stop at the 60 ft mark and shut it...couldn't even see the staging lights! Best 60 ft time ever... but 1/4 was something like 30.218 @ 87....

In an emergency... if you have"ice" in your veins.... you can just *** on your intercoller before run!:woo-hoo::woo-hoo::woo-hoo::woo-hoo::woo-hoo:


Waarrantieee??? :wave::wave::wave::wave::wave:

 

[steve142857]

Went to Bradenton Strip last night (it's 1 AM now). Was HOT & very muggy. Not ideal weather for good runs.

Last run @ 9:55 PM was best. 74 deg and windows started to fog up at end of run!
Drove thru a thunderstorm about 15 min from track on way there. Summer-like FL weather pattern.

Turned a 13.116 @ 104.34 MPH 60 ft was 1.946. Left at around 2,000 rpm with T/C OFF. 1/8 mi time was 8.420 @83.21 mph.

If it had been 60 deg and sorta dry, I believe I would have been in the 12's! Not to bad for a 5 K BRICK!

As for your CAI design... sounds like Hennessey system that Darrel has.
Stock boost, from my logging is 13. PSI on my Flex. The key to performance is the MCT temp & boost. Unless there are few people running, the problem at the strip, is the wait, which heats everything up.

Hey Bob,
I was up last night because of my baby girl and I was pretty sure I had commented on your times... since I cannot find my reply, here again are my congrats on your times... good job!
Funny, Ipassed so much time thinking about my car recently and reading in this forum that I had a dream this night that I was going to the drag and had a run (still stock) at 13.56 at 104... very funny, I remember the numbers, now I just need to go and see if it was a premonition... maybe tonight!
Will keep you guys posted. I really need to try at least a few runs stock beofre starting to modify it (mods in about 2-3 weeks). What do you think about conditions, tonight it is supposed to be around 5 Celcius (41 f) and probably humid, what are the ideal conditions... here in Quebec we really have all possible conditions and from one day to another too! Thanks

 

[Showgun]

Hey Bob,
I was up last night because of my baby girl and I was pretty sure I had commented on your times... since I cannot find my reply, here again are my congrats on your times... good job!
Funny, Ipassed so much time thinking about my car recently and reading in this forum that I had a dream this night that I was going to the drag and had a run (still stock) at 13.56 at 104... very funny, I remember the numbers, now I just need to go and see if it was a premonition... maybe tonight!
Will keep you guys posted. I really need to try at least a few runs stock beofre starting to modify it (mods in about 2-3 weeks). What do you think about conditions, tonight it is supposed to be around 5 Celcius (41 f) and probably humid, what are the ideal conditions... here in Quebec we really have all possible conditions and from one day to another too! Thanks

Yikes, traction should be just about non existent at those temps, Steve, unless they warm the track and you heat the tires.
If you've got summer rubber on then even worse.

Don't expect too much in this weather; I'd say you'll be lucky to get in the 13's at all.
Best of luck tho. be safe and let us know how it goes.

 

[Showgun]

Went to Bradenton Strip last night (it's 1 AM now). Was HOT & very muggy. Not ideal weather for good runs.

Last run @ 9:55 PM was best. 74 deg and windows started to fog up at end of run!
Drove thru a thunderstorm about 15 min from track on way there. Summer-like FL weather pattern.

Turned a 13.116 @ 104.34 MPH 60 ft was 1.946. Left at around 2,000 rpm with T/C OFF. 1/8 mi time was 8.420 @83.21 mph.

If it had been 60 deg and sorta dry, I believe I would have been in the 12's! Not to bad for a 5 K BRICK!

As for your CAI design... sounds like Hennessey system that Darrel has.
Stock boost, from my logging is 13. PSI on my Flex. The key to performance is the MCT temp & boost. Unless there are few people running, the problem at the strip, is the wait, which heats everything up.

Great times Bob...If mother nature had been kinder, you may have seen the 12's you want (and deserve)........
Pick a cool day next time -- I can see you gettin' there ......
As you say: PDG for a Brick. :woo-hoo: