Calypso
**** Deer
$2800 OBO
Well, It’s looking like it might be time to get out of the SHO game. At least temporarily. As much as I hate to let it go, family life and a rapidly approaching “vacation” to Afghanistan are forcing an inevitable sale.
I purchased this car in April of 2007 from another forum member, Dave Kegel. This is the First 3.2 MTX conversion SHO, with the write-up available on SHOtimes. Unfortunately, within 2 months of ownership, I hit a deer with the car. It has since been repaired, but does not look as good as it did when I originally purchased it. With a little bit of time and money though, it could be put back to normal. This was my goal, but, as stated before, I have a new family and an upcoming deployment. I’m just not in the right place in life to have a “project” car, and don’t really want to let this car sit around collecting dust for another year or two before I am.
Currently, the car runs and drives fine, but does have a few issues. Let’s start with the bad:
• Front end damage with a deer, has been repaired for the most part
• Allegedly bad alternator, haven’t had it tested yet. Battery seems to be charging fine and is always putting out about 12-13 volts before cranking, and the alternator pushes 14.5 ish while the motor is running.
• Starter seems to be going out. I will replace it soon with a new one though.
• Small coolant leak seemingly coming from the water pump. Hasn’t caused any major coolant losses though, and no overheating issues whatsoever.
• A few dents on the fenders from the deer
• Broken windshield (consequently, not from the deer)
• Recently developed an exhaust rattle. I think this is because the guys that re-welded on the exhaust didn’t leave enough clearance between it and the body/shifter box. Albeit annoying, it isn’t a drivability issue. I will inspect and see what can/needs to be done about it and fix it if possible.
• Has some wear spots on the intake manifold. I removed and inspected the front motor mount and it is fine.
• The worst issue would be the transmission, or clutch/TOB rather. The pressure plate went out a few weeks before hitting the deer and I haven’t replaced that yet. This causes shifting to be difficult sometimes, without rev-matching. However, the clutch grabs fine and I have yet to notice it slipping at all.
These are the only known issues with the car. I have been driving the SHO for a while now, and it has given me no serious issues. The only issues it has given me are a few times it has left me stranded due to some wiring that I failed to repair completely, leading to the fuel pump not getting power. This was VERY annoying when it happened, but I have since repaired the problem and it has not had any problems since, except for a weak starter, and a possibly bad alternator.
Other than the items listed above, the car is fine, and runs and drives great. I recently replaced the plugs/wires with duralast wires and autolite platinum plugs (about 2000 miles ago). The car has had regular oil changes every 3000 miles with Mobil 1 full synthetic, and the heads were very clean when I removed the valve cover during plug/wire swap.
I think that’s about all. I’m not exactly sure what to ask for it right now, so consider this a gauging interest thread and make an offer. I’ll put up a price within a week or so when I figure out how much I’m asking, unless I get an acceptable offer before then. So ask questions if you’ve got them and I’ll answer as soon as possible.
Oh, the car currently has 218,3XX miles on the body and about 80,000 on the motor (give or take a few thousand)
Thanks for looking.
MODS:
Drivetrain:
3.2L engine
SHONut +40 cams
Ford 80mm MAF
SHO Shop air "horn"
SouthBend Rally clutch
Fidanza aluminum flywheel
Underdrive pullies
155 lph fuel pump
Dual-core radiator
Midwest SHO Y-pipe modified with true 2.5" collector
Fully mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust with Dynomax race muffler (resonator)
Edelbrock Muffler
Tweecer RT
Gen3 subframe bushings
SHONut reinforced motor mounts
Last dyno was 230HP/195 TQ. HP peak is 6700 RPM.
The A/F ratio is not yet optimized. With a wideband O2 and some more twEECing, I think there's more power in it.
Suspension:
Intrax Springs
Tokico struts
20mm front bar w/greasable poly bushings
TRW front lower control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar end links
26mm rear sway bar with Delrin bushings
Heavy duty rear sway bar endlinks
BMR adjustable rear lower control arms w/greasable poly bushings
Rear control arm center H-brace
-2.5 degrees camber front, -2 rear
Brakes:
Wilwood BSL 4 piston front calipers
Wilwood PolyMatrix B, E, and T pad sets
12.2" x .81" 2 piece vented front rotors w/aluminum hats
10" vented rear disk brakes w/Porterfield R4-S pads
Rear brake bias valves
Stainless steel brake lines all around
ATE brake fluid
Wheels/Tires:
17x8 Borbet Type E w/235/45-17 Toyo Extenza HP’s
Misc:
Subframe connectors
SHO Plus hood w/hood pins (no hood latch)
Momo Competition Steering wheel
Schroth Rallye 4 Harness
Lexan rear windows (Currently not installed, stock glass windows are)
Rear door locks removed
Autometer gauges (Oil pressure, water temp, volts)
Photos were taken 2 days ago (18 July 2011)
EDIT* photobucket really took a toll on the picture quality. If anyone wants any specific photos or better quality ones, let me know and I can upload better ones or email them. The car really does look better in person than it does in the pictures, even the hi-res ones before I uploaded to photobucket. Here are 2 links to better quality ones I uploaded:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h127/mjroadkill/32 MTX SHO/DSC_5319-1.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h127/mjroadkill/32 MTX SHO/DSC_5329-1.jpg
Well, It’s looking like it might be time to get out of the SHO game. At least temporarily. As much as I hate to let it go, family life and a rapidly approaching “vacation” to Afghanistan are forcing an inevitable sale.
I purchased this car in April of 2007 from another forum member, Dave Kegel. This is the First 3.2 MTX conversion SHO, with the write-up available on SHOtimes. Unfortunately, within 2 months of ownership, I hit a deer with the car. It has since been repaired, but does not look as good as it did when I originally purchased it. With a little bit of time and money though, it could be put back to normal. This was my goal, but, as stated before, I have a new family and an upcoming deployment. I’m just not in the right place in life to have a “project” car, and don’t really want to let this car sit around collecting dust for another year or two before I am.
Currently, the car runs and drives fine, but does have a few issues. Let’s start with the bad:
• Front end damage with a deer, has been repaired for the most part
• Allegedly bad alternator, haven’t had it tested yet. Battery seems to be charging fine and is always putting out about 12-13 volts before cranking, and the alternator pushes 14.5 ish while the motor is running.
• Starter seems to be going out. I will replace it soon with a new one though.
• Small coolant leak seemingly coming from the water pump. Hasn’t caused any major coolant losses though, and no overheating issues whatsoever.
• A few dents on the fenders from the deer
• Broken windshield (consequently, not from the deer)
• Recently developed an exhaust rattle. I think this is because the guys that re-welded on the exhaust didn’t leave enough clearance between it and the body/shifter box. Albeit annoying, it isn’t a drivability issue. I will inspect and see what can/needs to be done about it and fix it if possible.
• Has some wear spots on the intake manifold. I removed and inspected the front motor mount and it is fine.
• The worst issue would be the transmission, or clutch/TOB rather. The pressure plate went out a few weeks before hitting the deer and I haven’t replaced that yet. This causes shifting to be difficult sometimes, without rev-matching. However, the clutch grabs fine and I have yet to notice it slipping at all.
These are the only known issues with the car. I have been driving the SHO for a while now, and it has given me no serious issues. The only issues it has given me are a few times it has left me stranded due to some wiring that I failed to repair completely, leading to the fuel pump not getting power. This was VERY annoying when it happened, but I have since repaired the problem and it has not had any problems since, except for a weak starter, and a possibly bad alternator.
Other than the items listed above, the car is fine, and runs and drives great. I recently replaced the plugs/wires with duralast wires and autolite platinum plugs (about 2000 miles ago). The car has had regular oil changes every 3000 miles with Mobil 1 full synthetic, and the heads were very clean when I removed the valve cover during plug/wire swap.
I think that’s about all. I’m not exactly sure what to ask for it right now, so consider this a gauging interest thread and make an offer. I’ll put up a price within a week or so when I figure out how much I’m asking, unless I get an acceptable offer before then. So ask questions if you’ve got them and I’ll answer as soon as possible.
Oh, the car currently has 218,3XX miles on the body and about 80,000 on the motor (give or take a few thousand)
Thanks for looking.
MODS:
Drivetrain:
3.2L engine
SHONut +40 cams
Ford 80mm MAF
SHO Shop air "horn"
SouthBend Rally clutch
Fidanza aluminum flywheel
Underdrive pullies
155 lph fuel pump
Dual-core radiator
Midwest SHO Y-pipe modified with true 2.5" collector
Fully mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust with Dynomax race muffler (resonator)
Edelbrock Muffler
Tweecer RT
Gen3 subframe bushings
SHONut reinforced motor mounts
Last dyno was 230HP/195 TQ. HP peak is 6700 RPM.
The A/F ratio is not yet optimized. With a wideband O2 and some more twEECing, I think there's more power in it.
Suspension:
Intrax Springs
Tokico struts
20mm front bar w/greasable poly bushings
TRW front lower control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar end links
26mm rear sway bar with Delrin bushings
Heavy duty rear sway bar endlinks
BMR adjustable rear lower control arms w/greasable poly bushings
Rear control arm center H-brace
-2.5 degrees camber front, -2 rear
Brakes:
Wilwood BSL 4 piston front calipers
Wilwood PolyMatrix B, E, and T pad sets
12.2" x .81" 2 piece vented front rotors w/aluminum hats
10" vented rear disk brakes w/Porterfield R4-S pads
Rear brake bias valves
Stainless steel brake lines all around
ATE brake fluid
Wheels/Tires:
17x8 Borbet Type E w/235/45-17 Toyo Extenza HP’s
Misc:
Subframe connectors
SHO Plus hood w/hood pins (no hood latch)
Momo Competition Steering wheel
Schroth Rallye 4 Harness
Lexan rear windows (Currently not installed, stock glass windows are)
Rear door locks removed
Autometer gauges (Oil pressure, water temp, volts)
Photos were taken 2 days ago (18 July 2011)
EDIT* photobucket really took a toll on the picture quality. If anyone wants any specific photos or better quality ones, let me know and I can upload better ones or email them. The car really does look better in person than it does in the pictures, even the hi-res ones before I uploaded to photobucket. Here are 2 links to better quality ones I uploaded:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h127/mjroadkill/32 MTX SHO/DSC_5319-1.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h127/mjroadkill/32 MTX SHO/DSC_5329-1.jpg
Last edited:
for a blue Gen I
