Finally ordered a new starter:)

[jthod]

Have you done all the test on the alt? Battery? (load at idle, and at xxxx RPM?) you'd need to take it some where to do it (like my shop) where they have a VAT-40, or similar tool.

You need some help and do a little wiggle testing!!

 

[yamahaSHO]

I've done some wiggle testing and I'm starting to think somthing is up with the alternator, but I have some more things to check. I'm trying to avoid pulling the alternator if I don't have to as it is a chore. The blower has to come off for that and it isn't the most pleasant thing to do.

We'll see... I can always take it to Auto Zone. It's very random right now, although even when it runs right I never see 14v inside the car. I haven't checked the output of the alternator in a few months, but I thought it was over 14v.

 

[jthod]

You should have the alt checked at speed. The output test doen't do voltage, it tests the amperage output when a load it put on, and voltage is lowered to 12 volts.

Each car has a different RPM spec. I'd just take it down to a reputable shop, or mine if you want to road trip on saturday, and we can test it out. I work 8-12, then at Pizza Hut from 3-9.

 

[Eric VerValin]

I tell you honestly..... take it to a place that rebuilds them. The have a lot better test equipment vs an autozone setup. Electrical shorts are a pain. I feel your pain. Connector on the alt is lookin ok and all that? shiny screws / clean ring terminal on there too?

I have issues with my battery cables never seeming to be tight enough... its suprising what an extra 1/4 turn of a wrench will do sometimes. Good luck finding it tho!

 

[yamahaSHO]

You should have the alt checked at speed. The output test doen't do voltage, it tests the amperage output when a load it put on, and voltage is lowered to 12 volts.

Each car has a different RPM spec. I'd just take it down to a reputable shop, or mine if you want to road trip on saturday, and we can test it out. I work 8-12, then at Pizza Hut from 3-9.

So you're saying that if I time it right, I can get some pizza?!

I tell you honestly..... take it to a place that rebuilds them. The have a lot better test equipment vs an autozone setup. Electrical shorts are a pain. I feel your pain. Connector on the alt is lookin ok and all that? shiny screws / clean ring terminal on there too?

I have issues with my battery cables never seeming to be tight enough... its suprising what an extra 1/4 turn of a wrench will do sometimes. Good luck finding it tho!

The cables look fine and everything is shiney. I've re-tightened everything.

 

[jthod]

yeah, eventually, I just started. I get 35% off. I'm cooking too.

 

[yamahaSHO]

You're cooking... Nevermind

JK.

I may be passing through on Thrusday. If I do, can I drop the starter off with you and pick it up on my way back this weekend?

 

[jthod]

It needs to be tested on car.

 

[zblackbeast]

^^ you have more than one sho!!

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well, I for a fact had new battery cables, and the ground wire needed like 150lbs to TQ before it started the one time. I was completely ****** off and didn't know what else to do. So I double checked the ground down there on the tranny/starter yanked the **** out of it and it fired right up.


That shop jt is talking about will know whats up. Hope that solves everything. I fear my car is due for some electrical gremlin here soon. (Besides the shorting passenger sun visor) Its like when your at war, and everything is going too well.... your walking into an ambush.

 

[St Louis SHO]

Jason, double check those pigtails on the alternator. They have a pretty good tendency to crap out. Try wiggling those, with a voltmeter on the battery while running and see if anything changes.

- James

 

[yamahaSHO]

It needs to be tested on car.

The car probably couldn't make it all the way there right now.

 

[zblackbeast]

i know its a pain. but tomorrow to you want to maybe swap out alternators/batterys and see if my car does the same thing?

 

[yamahaSHO]

Well, when it is not shorting out, I am reminded of why I like this car so much. Even with the backed out timing and poor tune, it absolutely rips. When boost climbs I just have not traction in 2nd gear. In fear of maxing out my injectors on this tune, I haven't even redlined it, but I'm sure the people on the freeway onramp would have thought different. It just keeps pulling and boy does it feel good.

While the car was running yesterday, I had to slam the hood shut to get it to catch and everytime I would do that, the car would about stall.

I think my next step is to start taking stuff apart and look for the obvious....

 

[yamahaSHO]

I found some of my missing low end... My secondaries weren't connected... The cable popped off. I used to have to wait in first gear till around 4.5k for the tires to break loose... They do it from at least 3k now.

I still havent found the problem, although the harness behind the motor is hanging lower than it should. It is supposed to have a bracket that connects to one of the rear intake supports... I never connected my bracket because it didn't want to reach. I'm going to take it out to see if there is any shorting within that group of wires. I finally got tired of trying small things and taking it for a spin. I have the piping and intake off now... I'm just going to start pulling things out until something jumps out at me. I may get a spare wiring harness to swap in and test....

 

[AutoSHO]

Dang, too bad I won't be out there for another few weeks.

I think there's something up with the charging circuit or the alternator itself, due to it's 'inverted experience' not so long ago.

Have you tried running the car without the alternator connected? That would tell you if it it the wiring running to it, or the alternator itself... Especially since you have some repeatable symptoms (ie stalling when you close the hood, car won't start, etc).

I suspect if it is in the harness (I'm guessing yes) that it is in the bundle that runs in front of/on top of the radiator, behind the radiator support.

I may get a spare wiring harness to swap in and test....

Dang, just threw at least one of those away this last move. Figured I was finally done with needing to keep spare SHO parts around. I do still have that spare new TOB Fork, if/when you ever need it.

Last thought: It has to be something in an unprotected (not fused) circuit. Otherwise it would've blown/burned up by now. That keeps the list fairly short, at least.

 

[jthod]

Like I said, take it to a shop, and have them test the alternator output at idle, and at mid-RPM. They can see exactly what the RPM's should be, and they'll know what (hopefully) they are doing.

It needs to be tested at load, which is when you're having your problem.

Bring it to Milford.

:swing:

 

[yamahaSHO]

I have started it without the alternator in line, however, it started right after I connected it.

I think the best bet is just to have the alternator replaced under warranty. Everythings is pretty much apart and it has a lifetime warranty.

 

[zblackbeast]

^^^^ Lucky...

 

[NEp8ntballer]

^^^^ Lucky...

NAPA + AAA discount = lifetime warranty for the cost of a three year. that's the reason my jeep's starter has a lifetime warranty.