Exhaust stud replacement?

[TYSHO]

For anyone who has bought the studs from SNP, do they have a built on hex nut used for tightening it on the manifold and/or possibly easy removal if the stud were to snap?

I've noticed that my rear studs on the 93 SHO seem to have built on hex nuts that tighten up flush with the exhaust manifold. I figured they're there so 'if' the stud where to snap, it would be easy to remove it or helpful instead of removing the rear manifold.

If I didn't make my self clear, the stud has a nut built on/to it and when you install the new stud you use the nut to install it. After the stud is installed you have another nut, which holds the y-pipe in place, and it's seperate.

Thanks!

 

[Mr Anonymous]

By the part numbers listed on Josh's site, those are the studs with the shoulder and no integral hex nut. You can just spin on the nut that holds the y-pipe on and use that to tighten the stud, then remove the nut.

Heck, if your '93 is a life-long southern car, you shouldn't run into a problem with them snapping, just squirt some penetrating oil on them first and use a ratchet with a pipe over the end or a long breaker bar and just turn them gently and slowly.

 

[TYSHO]

The point of why I want the one with the built on nut is so the next time it snaps, I can just hit it off with the impact instead of taking the manifold off.

These southern cars do get some rust on the exhaust studs, but probaly no where near what the rust belt states get!

 

[autobahnsho]

Make sure you use some anti-seize when you install the studs AND nuts.

I had 3 stubborn nuts, broke 2 of the studs off. When I went to take the manifolds off luckily someone had used anti-seize on them. Besides getting my fingers into weird positions, it wasn't near as hard as I thought it would be...

I now use it on all kinds of nuts and bolts, so if I ever have to take them off again they'll come off without a struggle.

Thanks again, ShoForum!!

 

[rangerj]

You will find that anti-sieze compound helps in any situation where corrosion is a problem, such as the exaust manifold studs AND nuts.

The same is true for nuts and bolts used to attach things made of different metals, such as aluminum. Any bolt threaded into aluminum should have anti-sieze compound on it.

"Galvanic corrosion" (I thing that is the term for it)is the chemical process where two different metals in contact with each other will "corrode" and effectively become melded together.

One more "tip" you will find helpful with exaust fasteners. Use brass nuts and washers to attach the pipe flanges. Brass is a softer metal and it will give before the stud will break.

I completely cover the threads of the stud with brass nuts and use anti-sieze compound under the nuts (on the threads). That way there are no exposed threads to rust.

Food fot thought! rangerj

 

[qiksho]

Always use heat on the exhaust studs to remove them....I have always gotten them out this way.

Without heat I have broken them...even with a 3/8 ratchet, and I am not strong guy. wink

 

[speedy91]

I always just pull the manifold if I break an exhaust stud. A local muffler shop will drill out the broken stud and replace it with a new stud for $5 cash. It is worth every cent for me not to have to deal with exhaust any more than I have to.
Eric

 

[TYSHO]

Ah, I found 3 part numbers and just looked them up on some site to find out each are different. One has nothing but threads, another with the rounded shoulder(SNP Stocks), and the one with the hex shoulder that I was looking for. Turns out the hex shoulder studs are long gone and obsolete and when available they went for $4.38 a piece. I might be able to get a hand on some though.