error codes 24 and 19

[Craig]

I have an 89' SHO since 1990. I just closed another thread that turned out to be the starter solenoid, thanks to help here in the forum. I opened this to work through error codes I'm seeing. I have a $40 GEN 1 Ford diagnostic computer I got from O'Riellys.

I'm getting error codes 24 and 19. The 24 points to COIL #1 failure and the 19 is a CID sensor failure which is the CAM shaft position sensor in this car.

What do you all think? How would you go about trouble shooting. The CAM shaft position sensor is a couple of months old and the coil pack is about 4 years old. How about the DIS module?

My car is a daily driver but I work out of my home. The car has about 150K miles on it and its been pretty well maintained. And its running real well and in good shape in and out.

ct in Kentucky

 

[Ksoder]

I have an 89' SHO since 1990. I just closed another thread that turned out to be the starter solenoid, thanks to help here in the forum. I opened this to work through error codes I'm seeing. I have a $40 GEN 1 Ford diagnostic computer I got from O'Riellys.

I'm getting error codes 24 and 19. The 24 points to COIL #1 failure and the 19 is a CID sensor failure which is the CAM shaft position sensor in this car.

What do you all think? How would you go about trouble shooting. The CAM shaft position sensor is a couple of months old and the coil pack is about 4 years old. How about the DIS module?

My car is a daily driver but I work out of my home. The car has about 150K miles on it and its been pretty well maintained. And its running real well and in good shape in and out.

ct in Kentucky

Have you checked for spark coming from coil #1, and Is your waterpump leaking?

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

 

[Craig]

Have you checked for spark coming from coil #1, and Is your waterpump leaking?

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

I'm not a mechanic. But I'm building a list starting with your suggestions to give him. Thanks. The water pump was replaced about 2 years ago when a leak was found.

 

[Ksoder]

I'm not a mechanic. But I'm building a list starting with your suggestions to give him. Thanks. The water pump was replaced about 2 years ago when a leak was found.

If im not mistaken (which I absolutely might be) when the waterpump leaks, it leaks directly onto a sensor I think, just worth a shot

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[Craig]

If im not mistaken (which I absolutely might be) when the waterpump leaks, it leaks directly onto a sensor I think, just worth a shot

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

Yes, when the water pump was replaced, so was the Crank Shaft Position sensor. But the error 19 refers to the CAM sensor I believe.

 

[sperold]

Some symptoms for a Camshaft Position Sensor are 1) your tachometer may work intermittently or not work at all, 2) your car will not start with the first attempt as your timing system cannot figure out cylinder #1. It usually takes 3 tries to hit the sequence correctly for the timing after it has guessed cylinder #1.

If those things are not occurring, your Cam Position Sensor is OK.

The coil pack on these cars are bulletproof, and very seldom give trouble irrespective of mileage. Do not swap it out for any aftermarket brands.

 

[rubydist]

My suggestion is to throw away the code reader - obd1 code readers are not reliable.

Pull the codes using the flashing light method and confirm that they are what you reported. Then reset them. Drive the car for a week and check again to see if they returned. You don't know how old they are.

I have seen infant failures on all of the sensors, so the "new" cam sensor could be bad. There could also be a wiring issue, as these cars also have known issues of both opens and shorts in the wiring harnesses as they get older.

In my experience, the coil failure code is rarely the coil at fault. In my experience, it has been the DIS in each case. So, if you replace the coil and it doesn't help, change the DIS next.

 

[Craig]

Some symptoms for a Camshaft Position Sensor are 1) your tachometer may work intermittently or not work at all, 2) your car will not start with the first attempt as your timing system cannot figure out cylinder #1. It usually takes 3 tries to hit the sequence correctly for the timing after it has guessed cylinder #1.

If those things are not occurring, your Cam Position Sensor is OK.

The coil pack on these cars are bulletproof, and very seldom give trouble irrespective of mileage. Do not swap it out for any aftermarket brands.

Yes. I've had 2 CAM sensor replacements. In the first, the sensor failed. In the 2nd, the seal behind the sensor failed fouling the sensor. In both cases, it was like riding a stuttering/bucking something.

The tach is working fine. In trying to start, sometimes I start on the 1st attempt, sometimes the 2nd. But right now, it is not taking more than 2 attempts.

 

[Craig]

My suggestion is to throw away the code reader - obd1 code readers are not reliable.

Pull the codes using the flashing light method and confirm that they are what you reported. Then reset them. Drive the car for a week and check again to see if they returned. You don't know how old they are.

I have seen infant failures on all of the sensors, so the "new" cam sensor could be bad. There could also be a wiring issue, as these cars also have known issues of both opens and shorts in the wiring harnesses as they get older.

In my experience, the coil failure code is rarely the coil at fault. In my experience, it has been the DIS in each case. So, if you replace the coil and it doesn't help, change the DIS next.

Thanks everyone. I've been wondering about the DIS. You all have given me some things to look into.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

I use one of these code readers and it's been accurate 100% of the time:

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-...=automotive&sprefix=innova+obd,aps,-1&sr=1-29

It also clears codes by turning it off before turning the ignition off. Removes the need to disconnect the battery with the paperclip method.

Could indeed be that these are old codes, so worth clearing them, driving around some and rechecking. Your mechanic may find the following DIS tests useful:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kxsgo4m0a51fkp5/AADEWPeuPLNRyXE8TBUK6N02a?dl=0

 

[Craig]

I use one of these code readers and it's been accurate 100% of the time:

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW/ref=sr_1_29?crid=2HQY4DBMU2AIU&keywords=innova+obd&qid=1580146695&s=automotive&sprefix=innova+obd,aps,-1&sr=1-29

It also clears codes by turning it off before turning the ignition off. Removes the need to disconnect the battery with the paperclip method.

Could indeed be that these are old codes, so worth clearing them, driving around some and rechecking. Your mechanic may find the following DIS tests useful:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kxsgo4m0a51fkp5/AADEWPeuPLNRyXE8TBUK6N02a?dl=0

Thanks BaySHO.

 

[rubydist]

No need to disconnect battery to clear codes. Just disconnect the paperclip while the codes are still flashing out, and it clears them.