Enough with the noises..

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zblackbeast

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Ok, i have a few noises im trying to pinpoint..

1. Shortly after doing the ALSFB, my right strut was making that popping noise over bumps like *** holes/rough spots in the road... etc. NOW its making a noise on that same side like the ball joints are bad... but they were just replaced.. so idk.. i think the strut is just shot.. ideas??

2. at idle it occasionally makes a sound like little steel balls being shaken in a glass cup.. i think my idler pulley for the alt/ac compressor is going..

3.this isnt so much a noise as a problem, some times followed by a noise....: sometimes ill accidentally bog by pulling the clutch out to fast, and when i do it goes to like 1200 rpm, and BUCKS SO BAD like its missing then it makes this popping noise and then the rpms go back up... rod bearing time?? i know they need done, soo idk whats going on..

:thankyou:
 

38SHO

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welp, take off your belts,

then spin all your pulleys from water pump, power steering, alt, compressor and both tensioners

I'd suspect any of those as they are all applications with bearings that could be going bad, also pull on the pulleys and try to move them around, a little in and out isn't bad, but side to side/up down wobbling is bad news, while your spinning them by hand feel or listen for any abnormal sounds/vibrations like a bearing is moving rough or binding.... also inspect said accesory you find wrong for pulley warpage/cracks....... when you replace the problem get a new belt to put on it...........



also run the engine with the belts off(not too long as u don't have the water pump spinning) and see if the noise is still there, this will end any doubt you have if a bearing is bad...........




I've dealt with all of those sans the water pump making noises on my SHO's...

also helps to inspect pulley movement with belts on and engine running, listen to isolate any directions of noises, use the doppler effect to your advantage to narrow it down, look for anything wobbling, if something is moving excessively that should defintely get a real close look at.............


its hard to disagnose something without listening to it... but this is where i'd start for the engine noise.........



your suspension noise sounds like a bad strut rod bushing or the reciever for it on the front of the subframe........ it could crack... easiest way to check is jack a tire off the ground and whack it with a rubber mallet and see if it moves from the front to the back of the car.. or makes a noise when you do this

I HIGHLY doubt a balljoint is going to be the cause of this problem, especially since you just had them replaced, now if the pinch bolt for the lower balljoint going through the knuckle is loose that could cause the problem... check that by jacking up the tire off the ground and pull down really ******* the lower control arm assembly, or pry it with a prybar against the subframe....... it shouldn't move at all........ if the balljoint stud moves or wiggles in the knuckle you got a problem there that needs to be tightened.. take it back to the place that fixed it originally if thats the problem, raise holy **** too... thats a safety issue......

I doubt your third issue is a rod bearing, although that never hurts to change on a MTX..... midas well change the main bearings too while your there, lot of people overlook that.. they do still wear and can effect oil pressure........

it sounds like a misfire to me, bucking, making a popping noise, shit this was happening to me saturday cause like a ******* I got water on my front valve cover, the water gets in the plug wells and causes a misfire, inspect all plug wells for water or oil contamination..... inspect all plugs for good appearance and gap... then suspect plug wires after all that checks out good
 

zblackbeast

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ill hit the pulleys this weekend.

Ill look at the suspension too.. what exactly do i need to hit? The PO and his buddy did the suspension.. they welded something too.. ill go check that out here in a minute.. ill double check the ALSFB bolts too.. just to make sure they didnt back out..

as far as the miss goes.. i just replaced the plugs about 3 weeks ago with NGK lasers.. the part number i got of of SHOtimes.. my DIS was cracked and i keep forgetting to get the heat stuff to put inbetween it and the intake mount.. i forget what its called, but once i get that im going to replace it... it had a tune up when the 60k was done 30k or so ago, and they looked like poo.. (the plugs) but the wires are good.. as far as the coil.. who knows.. i may replace it with the performance coil i can get for the SOHC Explorers....
 

zblackbeast

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10k ago the following was done:
Ball joints and lower control arm
torsion struts
torsion strut bushing
alignment
torsion strut to subframe cups were welded
 

whiteman_01

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Number one could also be a bearing plate on the top of the strut. I had a noise like that in my 92 and i replaced lca's strut rod bushings (after welding) and swaybar ends and bushings. Turned out to be the bearing plate, lucky for me i was going to replace it all anyways.
 

hawkeye18

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I had a strut pop like that once. I forgot to put the two big washers on either side of the strut mount when I replaced it while installing Tokicos. The strut shaft ate its way through the rubber bushing and was no longer held in place vertically! Bad juju. Check the washers.
 

shobote

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You have over 90k on the plug wires ? with that mileage, they should be replaced no matter what they look like. Clean your MAF sensor with electronics cleaner; the bucking/stumbling could be due to the MAF filament having some contamination. Mine also did that and after cleaning runs like a champ with no stumbles.
 

NebraskaSHO

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I had a horrible popping noise in the 99 when I got it.

Strut mounts were shot in the front and rear.
 

shobote

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no.. plug wirers were changed >50k ago max.. I cleaned the MAF last week....


hmmm, not sure what is up; just to verify; you did remove the MAF screen with snap ring pliers and clean the MAF filament, and not just the inside of the MAF, correct ? Also, are you running a stock air filter, or is it an aftermarket oiled filter ? The oiled filters are notorious for contaminating the filament quickly.
 

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