When I first start my car in the morning the engine surges up & down. Then when I start driving it if I stop the engine stalls. I'm getting codes: 114, 551, 173, & 542. I recently replace the IAC & TPS. I also put in an aftermarket DIS. Any suggestions? (The fuel pump codes have been there for a while, I don't know how to fix that either.)
Engine Surges at start up
- Thread starter ahelm
- Start date
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Possibly a vacuum leak or a bad MAF? Try disconnecting the MAF (car will run a pre-determined value) and see if it runs better , or worse. If worse, MAF is fine, if better, MAF needs to be changed. Can try cleaning the MAF with electronic cleaner as well.
Dirk37
Mr. Resourceful
I looked up the codes here http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/ and this is what they mean
114 - IAT sensor out of range – IAT
551 - Problem in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) solenoid/circuit – Solenoids
173 - Oxygen sensor not switching – system is or was rich – Single, Right or Rear HO2S – Fuel control
542 -Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on – - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
114 - IAT sensor out of range – IAT:
Check to make sure the IAT is plugged it, it sticks out of the side of the airbox. These sensors are pretty simple and robust so I wouldn't recommend replacing it until you're sure all of the wiring is good. Also make sure the connector is clean and not corroded.
551 - Problem in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) solenoid/circuit – Solenoids:
This vacuum solenoid is also pretty robust, check to be sure it's plugged in and the connector isn't corroded. Also make sure the wires are intact as far as you can follow them.
173 - Oxygen sensor not switching – system is or was rich – Single, Right or Rear HO2S – Fuel control:
Replace your O2 sensors. Rockauto has them for pretty cheap. This will probably solve a lot of your running issues because the ECU uses these to determine how much fuel to give the engine.
542 -Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on – - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits:
This is probably a result of the car stalling. Since the car runs the fuel pump is obviously working, fix the other problems and then see if this is actually an issue.
114 - IAT sensor out of range – IAT
551 - Problem in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) solenoid/circuit – Solenoids
173 - Oxygen sensor not switching – system is or was rich – Single, Right or Rear HO2S – Fuel control
542 -Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on – - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
114 - IAT sensor out of range – IAT:
Check to make sure the IAT is plugged it, it sticks out of the side of the airbox. These sensors are pretty simple and robust so I wouldn't recommend replacing it until you're sure all of the wiring is good. Also make sure the connector is clean and not corroded.
551 - Problem in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) solenoid/circuit – Solenoids:
This vacuum solenoid is also pretty robust, check to be sure it's plugged in and the connector isn't corroded. Also make sure the wires are intact as far as you can follow them.
173 - Oxygen sensor not switching – system is or was rich – Single, Right or Rear HO2S – Fuel control:
Replace your O2 sensors. Rockauto has them for pretty cheap. This will probably solve a lot of your running issues because the ECU uses these to determine how much fuel to give the engine.
542 -Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on – - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits:
This is probably a result of the car stalling. Since the car runs the fuel pump is obviously working, fix the other problems and then see if this is actually an issue.
I have a couple of modifications to the above to suggest:
I have never ever seen a SHO motor run right when there was a 114 code. While it might seem that the intake air temp is not that important, for some reason the pcm is very dependent upon this input circuit working right. In my experience, this code is more likely from a connector or wiring issue than from a sensor that is actually bad. However, you really need to find and fix this problem in order for your car to run right.
The 173 code could be from a bad oxy sensor, but typically they fail reading lean rather than reading rich, so it is more likely that you have a fuel problem, like an injector that doesn't want to shut off or something like that. If the oxy sensors have not been replaced for a long time, it might be a good idea to change them anyway, but don't be surprised if the code remains. I would suggest starting with a few tanks of gas with some very good fuel injector cleaner to work on possibly sticking fuel injectors.
The 542 code can always be ignored on these cars - that code is set any time the engine stalls, and since yours is stalling with alarming regularity, you will have this code.
I have never ever seen a SHO motor run right when there was a 114 code. While it might seem that the intake air temp is not that important, for some reason the pcm is very dependent upon this input circuit working right. In my experience, this code is more likely from a connector or wiring issue than from a sensor that is actually bad. However, you really need to find and fix this problem in order for your car to run right.
The 173 code could be from a bad oxy sensor, but typically they fail reading lean rather than reading rich, so it is more likely that you have a fuel problem, like an injector that doesn't want to shut off or something like that. If the oxy sensors have not been replaced for a long time, it might be a good idea to change them anyway, but don't be surprised if the code remains. I would suggest starting with a few tanks of gas with some very good fuel injector cleaner to work on possibly sticking fuel injectors.
The 542 code can always be ignored on these cars - that code is set any time the engine stalls, and since yours is stalling with alarming regularity, you will have this code.
Thanks for the input. I just had two more codes pop up today. I noticed that the car wasn't stalling like it normally did, but when I tried to accelerate it would hesitate and buck a little bit. The new codes are 212 & 219. (Plus the other ones already mentioned.) I will check the wiring connection and let you know what I find. Also, is the IMRC the Ignition control module? If not where is the IMRC located? Thanks.
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212 = spout circuit grounded
219 = spout circuit open
I would interpret this as a wiring problem between the spout connector and the pcm. The fact that the intake air temp code is nearly always a wiring problem causes me to wonder if your local rodents have been lunching on the engine wiring harness. I would start by having a hard look at the under-hood wiring for damage.
219 = spout circuit open
I would interpret this as a wiring problem between the spout connector and the pcm. The fact that the intake air temp code is nearly always a wiring problem causes me to wonder if your local rodents have been lunching on the engine wiring harness. I would start by having a hard look at the under-hood wiring for damage.
I checked my wire harness and connectors and I don't see anything out of the norm. Codes 212 & 219 came from the DIS connector coming loose. I fixed that. My car started to run better and stopped stalling out for a while, but the weather was also getting warmer. It was cold today and the issues popped up again.
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