Engine Noise

[93shogun]

All,
Have a 93 3.2 ATX that has a little engine noise on the rear bank passengers side of the engine. It's definitely in the top end and not rod bearings. Sounds really bad between 1900-2200 RPMs then fades out smooth as glass.
Loud Tapping noise. Car doesn't smoke and runs and ideals very smoothly.

My instinct tells me it is a valve, since I acquired the car with 187K on it and doubt much has ever been done to the engine, with all the other things that were wrong with it.

I'm getting ready to do a shim job on the valves and timing chain and check out the cams and replace the gaskets. I've been told it's most likely the valve clearance or the timing chain tensioner. Since I have not worked on one of these things before I wanted to give you guys a shout and see if you have any other points that I might want to check out prior to disassembly.

Ive been thinking of finding a Yammer familiar dealer to do a diagnostic on it, then do the repair while I'm in there. Any thoughts/ Suggestions for a rookie?

93SHOGUN

 

[JRA2000TL]

Could be a timing belt tensioner if it's on the accessory side; otherwise it's probably a cam chain tensioner. Trust me, I know this because I have the same issue with mine and have been told a few dozen times that's what it is, so I'm just passing the info on that I was told. I also put a video of mine on here for others to hear it, and they still had the same conclusion. Mine is also on the top end passenger side, but it's on the front at Cyl #1 mostly but you can hear it across the top camshaft all the way across. Just haven't had much time or extra $ to devote to the car lately. I thought mine was a valve too. If you can loosen or pull the timing cover just enough to see the belt when the engine is running, you'll be able to tell if it's slapping around; if so, it's the timing belt tensioner. I loosened mine (couldn't get that one center bolt off that's right in front of the belt), but I got it loose enough to pry it open while the car was running and saw that there is no slack in the belt. I was able to eliminate that.

Be careful when pulling the valve cover bolts. I've been told they break or strip easy. I soaked mine in PB Blaster and will do it again before I get ready to pull the valve covers. I may even pick up a set of extra bolts from someone on here before I pull mine in case they do break; then I'll have extras. It's a 5mm hex for the valve cover bolts.

 

[93shogun]

Just as I had suspected

Thanks JRA2000TL

I was pretty sure it was the a valve, but my second geuess was the tensioners. I'll be tearing it down in the weeks to come and I'll give you some feedback on how it all went. I'll make special note of any issues in the process so that maybe you can be better prepared to do yours.

I agree on the valve cover bolts. I have heard the same thing about them. Maybe I better order in an extra set for myself prior to dismantle.

Thanks for your input.

93shogun
187K

 

[gurucomputers]

If it is the timing belt tensioner the only place I have had luck getting them for the ATX is Ford Performance Specialist.

They are about $200.00 shipped but don't replace it with a used one. Bite the bullet and get a new one.

 

[rubydist]

The valve cover bolts aren't so likely to break as they are to get the hex stripped out. Its only a 5mm allen head, and they have a tendency to get filled with dirt and junk. Take a dental pick or very small nail, and dig out all the crap from the allen socket before you try to loosen them. If you do this, you will not have a problem. (btw, I have a set or two of the bolts if you really need them.)

 

[Mike Spataro]

I have a 3.2 ATX that had the exact same symptoms with a 160K. The timing belt was loose and flapping around, hitting the timing covers. Turned out to be the timing belt tensioner. It was making lots of noise at 1800- 2000 RPM and then ran smooth above 20000 RPM. I suggest you remove the upper timing belt cover and view it when the engine is running to be sure this is the same problem.

Change it out with a new belt and a good tensioner and you will be back on the road.

Mike

 

[gurucomputers]

It was making lots of noise at 1800- 2000 RPM and then ran smooth above 20000 RPM. Mike

WOW 20000!!! I'm sure it did after everything flew apart and there was nothing left to make any noise.

You know I am just flipping you shit for your typo. Couldn't resist.

It's all good.

 

[Eric VerValin]

$20 its still your rod bearings....

Its amazing how the sound travels upward thru the cynders.... that is prime mileage for one to spin... ask me how I know... mine spun @ 189,161 miles... I changed my oil, and all that... even with a scope it sounded like it was up top... Do yourself a favor and check those anyway.. its just another $50 for the peice of mind.



Trust me man... I replaced the tensioners too after I checked my valves... and still it was there.. Your words are all I'm going on.. and "Loud Tapping Noise" is not good... I wouldn't start it again until you find it. If you can pull your Y Pipe off easily, then in 20 minuites or so you could see how those bearings are doing. Why spend all the time on top of the motor, without rebuilding the bottom end?

 

[JRA2000TL]

I'm sure 93shogun will get to his before I have a chance to get to mine. I'll see what his winds up being since he said he's got the exact symptoms. I will be sure to clean the dirt out of the vc bolts before I remove them because I know mine have alot of junk in them.

Eric, how long will an engine run on a spun bearing? I've run the **** out of mine to redline a few good times and that car just keeps on going. I typically drive it 10-20 miles on the weekends and I may run to the grocery store in it once or twice during the week, but I still don't drive it much. I probably put 40-50 miles on it this weekend though. Since Feb. when I bought, I probably put 2k miles on it or less. If it turns out to need a motor, I may see about trading it + some cash (when I get caught up) for a Gen II MTX with good paint and up to date maintenance.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well mine didnt sound healthy at all when it actually spun. I didnt drive it at all. You could get a slight ticking sound before it actually spins, for 10k miles if your lucky. That stuff is up to murphys law, and the sho gods..

 

[shonut260]

Hey,
I had the same noise last week tore down the top of the motor and didn't find nothing until I took off the top timing belt cover and rotated the motor back and forth with the alt. nut and seen that the timing belt went loose. The tensioner for the belt will be just visible towards the back, if you can move it with just your finger it is shot. The noise I got was just above idle to 2000 rpm. Tore the motor down the rest of the way and seen that the seal was done on the tensioner and leaking. Thankfully had spare motor with a good part as these are hard to come by and are $158. The $150 I paid for the spare motor just paid for its self. Good luck.

 

[93shogun]

Culprit of My Engine Noise

OK Guys here is the scoop of the really noisy tapping between the RPMs listed above. I decided to do an upper and lower and front 60K in my case a 187K..
I ripped the engine apart to find that I had a sticking timing belt tensioner and a really loose timing belt. I decided to go for the gold and do the whole job. New Water pump, and housing gaskets, CPS, Front Crank seal, Cams seals, Thermostat, Upper and lower Plenum intake gaskets, Valve Lash, Valve cover gaskets, Plug wires, Spark plugs.
The Intake was nasty nasty, 12 cans of carb cleaner and a paint job later the intake is a master piece.
Back to the noise that was happening. The tensioner was stuck not because of being worn out, but because the CPS cam seal had a nasty oil leak and the rear cam seal was leaking and just built up such crud that the hydro couldn't operate properly. So cleaned it up nice and tested it and man it sprung right into place. Tested it several more times over the last few days and works properly. Timing belt was off 2 teeth.. Cant believe it ran as well as it did being off. Not to mention it had been changed before and the ***** didn't line anything up. He used a white marker to mark the cam pulleys and crank with on the rear timing cover. He had no clue if it was in time or not. I could see where the belt was slapping the timing cover in two locations which accounted for the tapping sound.

But I did find one thing that I didn't like and need to find a replacement for. The crank timing gear back ****** was bent and at .30mm from the CPS. So if anyone has a timing gear they don't have any use for let me know.

As for the noise I'm sure it is gone now. I have checked the rod bearing's and they are not even worn. The cams on this car are super clean not even any wear on the shims. They are all at the top end of the spec, very tight. So I suspect this car has new cams and shims at least, under a magnifying glass you cant see any scratches on the cams they are spotless.

It will be a couple more weeks before I have her running as I am taking the time to replace all the sending units and the sensors I can find. Putting Cruise and air back in the car having a shift kit put in the tranny as we speak. So hopefully with the nice Xmas bonus I can have the windshield replaced the have the car registered and tagged and inspected just in time for 500 mile road trip for X-mas.

Hope this gives anyone with the same issues a heads up in what to look for. OH also checked the cam chains they are tight as ***** hat band. Thats another area of concern when it comes to top end noise I have hear for these cars.

Many thanks for the encouragement from you guys and some pointers.
The job was really very easy I am in the reinstall stage now.

JIM
93ShoGun

 

[93shogun]

OH and one last good word... www.partsamerica.com
Discount code. onlinesave15 for a 15% discount on parts and free shipping over $75.bucks.
YOU CANT BEAT THAT.

Good quality parts & Felpro gaskets.