Engine noise after high RPM's??

[Silver Bullet]

Recently my engine has been making a loud tapping sound that begins whenever give it a good shot of throttle and the RPM's get high. It never makes this noise under normal driving conditions though. Only when I either take off really hard, or decide to juice it, and rev it up on the highway. When I pull over I can hear a noise that is similar to the older engines that had a loose lifter tapping/rapping, with no oil pressure. It seems to be on the top of the engine, near the back (Standing in front of it). After a few minutes, the noise just absolutely stops as if I were imagining it and does not come back until the next time I get on it... This is mind boggling to me, and I have no idea what is going on with the engine?? My check engine light has been coming on a lot the past couple weeks, but the only code the scanner spit out was for the EGR... Any thoughts as to what may be happening??

<small>[ March 30, 2003, 12:18 AM: Message edited by: Silver Bullet ]</small>

 

[Levand16]

Rod Bearings? I think thats one of the signs that the rod bearings are going bad. I'm not sure though.

 

[betterman]

You'll probably want to run the codes if you are getting a check engine light. One thing that comes to mind is that your o2 sensors are bad and they are causing your engine to run lean causing a ping or knock. But then again its just a guess I would wait for more information from the more well informed people on the forum.

 

[projectSHO89]

Please post the exact code so that it can be discussed. If it's a 332, I posted a complete diagnostic for that one awhile back.

As for the noise, time for a mechanic's stethoscope. $10 at AutoZone or 5 bucks at Harbor Freight.

If the noise appears to be coming from the top of the engine on the driver's side (either front or rear bank), my suspicion would be the timing chain tensioners. The stethoscope would help you pinpoint the origin of the noise. If the source of the noise is from "down below", then I'd suspect the rod bearings.

The CEL is not likely to be related to the noise.

Steve

<small>[ March 30, 2003, 08:04 AM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

How many miles have passed since your last valve gap adjustment?

 

[Silver Bullet]

SDPATT... I took my car to Drum Hill Ford in Massachusetts for the 60K servic/Valve service when the odometer was at 69,000 miles. I am now at 112,800... I trusted that they did all they were supposed to do, but I'll never really know for sure since I was not there to watch the job process. Have you heard of any SHO owners getting ripped off at Ford, or reports that Ford failed to do what they were asked to do??

 

[SHOtimer]

That last comment about Ford service was sarcastic right? If it wasn't your in for a surprise.
Doug

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Silver Bullet:
SDPATT... I took my car to Drum Hill Ford in Massachusetts for the 60K servic/Valve service when the odometer was at 69,000 miles. I am now at 112,800... I trusted that they did all they were supposed to do, but I'll never really know for sure since I was not there to watch the job process. Have you heard of any SHO owners getting ripped off at Ford, or reports that Ford failed to do what they were asked to do??

Unless you specifically requested the valve adjustment, chances are they probably only performed the services specified in the shop manual as being due at 60K, which for a '93 would have been an oil change, coolant flush, spark plugs, and maybe a new assy belt. The invoice you received at the time of the service should specifically detail what parts and services were included.

 

[Silver Bullet]

Somehow my invoice got misplaced... I remember requesting that the valves be adjusted though, and I will NEVER forget the price I paid for the whole job. The total for parts and labor was $2,138.76!! I am not kidding... I had won a good amount of money on a scratch ticket the week before, so I was like "Whatever" as long as my car was fixed properly. At the time, I did not belong to SHOFORUM, and believed the best thing to do was to take the car to the dealer because they know it inside out. They also installed a new water pump while they were at it, because the mechanic suggested I replace the old one because he said there was movement and it would go on me soon. The part that aggravates me the most is that I was not able to physically see exactly what they did to my car!!

* I wonder if I called Ford if they would still have the job in their computer?? Worth a try I guess...

<small>[ March 30, 2003, 11:15 PM: Message edited by: Silver Bullet ]</small>

 

[yamahaSHO]

Silver Bullet:
Have you heard of any SHO owners getting ripped off at Ford, or reports that Ford failed to do what they were asked to do??

HAHA... That was a good one

I am glad I have never taken my SHO or any car I have owned to the dealer or mechanic. FWIW, When I bought my SHO at 58k, the PO said that the plugs were changed less than 10k ago. He also said the dealer did all the work(also gave me all paper work). When I did my 60k at 59k, the plugs looked as if they were never gapped. 3 of them looked as if they had been dropped before installing.

<small>[ March 31, 2003, 12:33 AM: Message edited by: yamahaSHO ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

The "quality" of the service I received from the dealer on my '89 SHO was one of the main reasons I traded it in on my '91 and never allowed them to touch the engine on her. The 60K service on the '89 was a tremendous disappointment. They were supposed to perform the upper and front end services, but when the car was returned after 4 days, the engine sounded like a rattling old sewing machine, there were several timing belt cover bolts missing and the intake manifold had been badly scratched on its beautiful runners and plenums. There were grease stains on the leather seat and console areas in the interior. I felt like the car had been violated.

Even if they know to perform the valve gap adjustment, most shops will not touch a valve shim if the gap measures to be within the allowed range. If they don't have to pull a shim out they won't. Only the better SHO specialist shops and private owners will remove, inspect and replace each of the shims to guarantee the long term performance of the SHO engine.