Engine dumps upon acceleration

[Echowolf]

SHO Gods !!!

Car: 1994 Taurus SHO, Auto, 120K

Just got done doing the 60K- gaskets, plugs, wires, etc, thought the maintenance would fix it...
btw, this problem existed before the maintenance.

Car starts right up no problems, the problem can occur in park or in drive, give it gas or "stomp on it" and you can hear an breath of air from the front of the engine then it dumps like it's going to die, then it will slowly rev up to whatever rpm you are gassing it to. If you slowly ease into the throttle it will rev up fine, but if you give it gas quick, it dumps again.

I tried, all gears, forward and reverse- does the same thing.
I tried replacing the Throttle Position Sensor
I checked the fuel rail and the fuel lines for cuts or breaks
I checked for leaks, no leaks...

Any ideas?

TIA!

 

[lowc]

how does it idle? any codes?did you check grounds?what did you check for leaks?

 

[rubydist]

sounds like it goes way lean when you stomp on the gas. there are several possibilities, so hopefully you find a code. let us know what you get when you pull codes.

 

[Echowolf]

K i'll get the codes tomorrow

The idle is fine, car starts up perfect, car shuts off perfect, shift is fine and on my clean garage floor there are no pools of wetness underneith- this is the only way i checked for leaks, other than flashlighting around the engine compartment for wet hoses and such.

 

[CademiaX]

This sounds just like my problem, no cel, no codes...

--edit--

Just fixed my issue. I orginally just pulled the whole maf housing out and cleaned it. This time I used a torx t20, removed just the sensor, and some maf cleaner and that did the trick.

The sensors are tiny, I didn't even realize they were caked in dirt at first glance, but if you compare the in flow to the out flow, you will see it, spray it down, blow it dry, dont touch the little coils! Lightly brushing them with a q-tip might be ok... I just blasted half a can at it until it all came off.

 

[Echowolf]

Pulled the codes tonight- the dam car told on me though, i will try the Key On Engine on tests again, apparently i didn't do something right...

Here are the codes anyways

The Definitions are from the shophoenix page, not sure how correct those are because he states "Not all of these codes will apply to the SHO"...!?! why post on your sho website and name yourself sho phoenix but not post anything completely relative to SHO? pfft, anyways.

the codes don't seems relative to the problems with the acceleration dumping and blubbering, but I will go ahead and look at the connectors on the EGR, the brake pedals...and the ECT...
Anyone gather anything else from this?
I am gonna post a video of the problems...

Key On Engine Off
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE

Key on Engine On
116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
521 (R) Wheel not turned during test or PSP problem - PSP- I turned the wheel, but didn;t keep it there during th test-should I?

538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test - Goose test?

536 (O,R,M) Brake On Off open or shorted to ground - BOO

 

[CademiaX]

Ok, maybe this problem isn't like mine, I didn't have any codes.

 

[rubydist]

327 on the SHO typically means the little lines off the pipe from the egr valve to the exhaust manifold are filled w/ crud and must be cleaned.

116 may not be a problem, if the engine was cold when you did the test, or it may mean that the ect is bad or bad wiring

521 may mean that you didn't turn the wheel enough - 1/4 turn each way and back to center - or the rack could be bad.

538 means that you didn't 'goose' the engine to over 2500 rpm at the proper point in the test.

536 means that the brake light on/off switch isn't working properly or you didn't step on the brake at the proper point in the test.

I would look for a vacuum leak on the egr / dpfe system - that could explain your sound and the 327 code possibly.

you need to make the 116 code go away to get the car to run properly - if it thinks the engine is cold, it will run in open loop w/ fuel enrichment for around 20 minutes, which will ruin gas mileage, possibly ruin cats, etc. if it thinks the engine is hot, it will de-tune the engine until it sees a 'proper' temperature. either is truly bad.

 

[rjsig8]

I have had many problems like that because im on my 5th sho two things i would check first is the mass air flow sensor and the crank sensor. If the front seal of the crank is leaking you cant usually tell,also if the water pump is leaking slow.The heat from both will **** the engine, then you can start it after it dies. not an expert but the amount of problems i have had i know a little.

 

[Echowolf]

Alrighty Ruby my Friend,

New Engine On Codes

116- Still there

121- NEW- (O,R,M) Throttle Position (TP) sensor out of range - TPS -I just installed a new one

327- Still there

411-NEW-411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) - ISC

412-NEW-412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC

536-Still there- Had the brake on the whole time, cause it was in neutral and I was reving to 2500

538-Still there- I revved it, maybe not right time, i know i did it right after the CEL cleared to do so.

Now, I have white smoke coming out the back side of the engine under where the ODB-I plugs are, smells like burning plastic and still can't see anything dripping from anywhere or onto anywhere from anywhere, looks like it's coming from or around the power steering hoses area where they go into the engine, they are covered in oil and crud, i figured it was burn off, but it doesn't seem to stop until the car cools down and doesn't start until the car warms up.

Should I just shoot it out back?

 

[rubydist]

don't shoot it, that will just prove you are a wuss....

I would just buy a new ect sensor - you need the one with 2 pin connector, not the single pin connector one. its not that expensive and it can't hurt.

the new tps is either bad or you don't have it connected properly - that needs to be verified. you can check it out w/ a ohm meter across the connector as you turn the tps - iirc its the middle pin and one of the outside ones. resistance should vary smoothly with no jumps.

the idle speed control voltage is on the same power line as the voltage to the tps - maybe that wiring is messed up somewhere.

which brings us to the white smoke below the pcm and that is a serious problem - the main wiring harness can fall down and touch the exhaust manifold and basically melt into a blob. you need to check that out and fix the wiring, and then tie it up properly to keep it off the manifold. once that is done, I would not be surprised if all your other issues are resolved....

 

[Echowolf]

LOL- Fix the SHO=Not a wuss
Nice sense of humor! Thanks! I will look into those items this morning...

 

[Sholovenothate]

clogged catalytic converter

 

[SHObill]

Change the fuel filter!!!!