Emissions HELP!!!!!

[joshy1410]

My 95 ATX failed emissions badly this last week.

HC were up around 2.8 and the allowed limit is .8
CO was up around 68 and the allowed limit is 15

i had it scoped out and the following codes came up.

111
172
214
332

The place recommend replacing the EGR Valve and the EGR solenoid. and the exaust from the resonator back.


i replaced the EGR Valve and the EGR solenoid. myself because they charge an arm and a leg.

i knew my mufflers were bad so i looked at my exhaust and only the mufflers need to be replaced all other pipes are solid i am going to wait to see how next test goes before replacing these

ran some some fuel injector cleaner through it to clean up some of the carbon. and took it in.

got it tested again two days ago and got these numbers.

HC were up around 2.4 and the allowed limit is .8
CO was up around 74 and the allowed limit is 15


i then replaced my O2 sensors.

soon i will but my mufflers on. i also heard the CPS could involved. Do you guys have any ideas with what could be wrong.

until its fixed i am getting a wonderful 11 miles to the gallon

Thanks in advance for the help,

JOSH

 

[Vsho93]

if you still get the egr code check the egr passage on the intake , mine also failed , replaced egr , still failed had the egr port on the intake cleaned car passed with flying colors

 

[joshy1410]

any way i can clean it out myself, instead of paying 80 bucks to have it done at car X

 

[Bizzy]

First thing is to clear the current codes then run the car for a little while to get fresh codes. Re-read the codes so you know they're new.

I believe your 172 code should have been fixed by installing the new 02 sensors.

Code 214 is the cam sensor (CID). Easy fix and it's not totally necessary to remove the intake if you have decently small hands. Question though, does your car experience a hard start condition at times? Does your tachometer work?
See this thread for info and some pics.

Code 332 is more than likely caused by the openings in the intake (aka nostrils) for the EGR being clogged. There's a wonderful writeup on how to clean those with a little Berryman's and a coat hanger located here:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=7907

 

[joshy1410]

can i just take the positive terminal of the batter for a while to clear the codes??


before i did this the CEL went on and off at random, now it is on solid after i drive a few miles

 

[Bizzy]

Best to do it right that way there are no questions on whether they've been cleared or not. It's easy as pie to do.

Attach a paperclip to the test connectors just like you were going to run the codes. Turn the key forward and let the codes start to run. While the codes are flashing pull the paper clip out then reinsert it into the connectors. That's it. Turn the key off and put the connectors back where they belong and then take the car out for a nice drive with varying types of driving (city/highway) if possible. Bring it back home and re-run the codes.

Note: Since the car will be up to operating temps, this would be an ideal time to run the KOER tests in addition to the KOEO tests. Click here to read the procedure to do that if you don't know how. Since some engine codes are only shown when doing the KOER tests, it sounds to me like you need to run them all.

 

[gurucomputers]

any way i can clean it out myself, instead of paying 80 bucks to have it done at car X

I just did this myself. Very easy to clean
1. Remove the air box to TB hose (The big one)
2. Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts from the throttle body
3. Disconnect the hoses to the throttle body (I think 3)
4. Slide the TB off gently to avoid damaging the gasket.and set aside.
5. Remove the two bolts from the EGR that attaches it to the intake.

Now get a small piece of bailing wire and put a 90 degree bend in it, look inside the intake and you will see two nostrils in front one on the left and one on the right bottom of the V shape. Poke this wire through to get out the yucky stuff. If you have an air compressor the next step is a breeze. Find a piece of rubber hose about a foot long that will fit snugly in the ERG hole. Stuff it in about 1/4 inch. Fill the rubber hose with B12 spray cleaner and let sit for about a minute. Now blow low pressure air through the hose and you will see all the nasty black soot come out the nostrils which can be cleaned out with a rag. Do this a couple of time to clean it out good. If you don’t have a compressor you can try blowing through it. I have never done it with out air so I’m not sure how well this will work. Put it all back together with a new EGR gasket or make one yourself.

Hope this Helps
Others feel free to add to this

 

[joshy1410]

Best to do it right that way there are no questions on whether they've been cleared or not. It's easy as pie to do.

Attach a paperclip to the test connectors just like you were going to run the codes. Turn the key forward and let the codes start to run. While the codes are flashing pull the paper clip out then reinsert it into the connectors. That's it. Turn the key off and put the connectors back where they belong and then take the car out for a nice drive with varying types of driving (city/highway) if possible. Bring it back home and re-run the codes.

Note: Since the car will be up to operating temps, this would be an ideal time to run the KOER tests in addition to the KOEO tests. Click here to read the procedure to do that if you don't know how. Since some engine codes are only shown when doing the KOER tests, it sounds to me like you need to run them all.

how do i run the codes myself with the paperclip thing.

Thanks

 

[gurucomputers]

how do i run the codes myself with the paperclip thing.

Check Out
http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=83

This is the procedure for checking and a list of all the codes...

 

[Sammy~D]

it must suck haveing to get your emmission check i live in minnesota so we dont have to worry but do everything the said it should help

 

[Bizzy]

how do i run the codes myself with the paperclip thing.

Thanks

LOL, click the link I provided in my post. :wave:

 

[gas it]

LOL, click the link I provided in my post. :wave:

Children these days can't comprehend very well. They're too busy playing video games and stuff like that.

I would also clean the MAF wires if you have a K&N filter. If you do have a K&N take it out and use the cheapest paper one you can buy. 11mpg is killing your cats, oil, and rod bearings, by dumping too much fuel into the cylinders. I bet your oil looks black if you haven't changed it in a while. And when it's hot it's probably as thin as water, not good for the bearings.

 

[joshy1410]

Children these days can't comprehend very well. They're too busy playing video games and stuff like that.

I would also clean the MAF wires if you have a K&N filter. If you do have a K&N take it out and use the cheapest paper one you can buy. 11mpg is killing your cats, oil, and rod bearings, by dumping too much fuel into the cylinders. I bet your oil looks black if you haven't changed it in a while. And when it's hot it's probably as thin as water, not good for the bearings.

regarding the air filter, so basically a cheap one would be allowing more air into the system to compensate for the fuel. and because i have a K&N one I'm all good.

i will be changing my oil as soon as i get the car back from the transmission place.

 

[joshy1410]

yesterday morning as i left for work i saw tranny fluid all over my garage. i was quite confused as i only had 3000 miles on this transmission. so i made sure i had enough fluid to get to the transmission place, turns out its the seal for the torque converter is where the leak is from. so when i get it back i will clean it out and let you guys know what happens with emissions.

Thanks for all the help.