Electrical radiator corrosion

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shopartsnw

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I am working on a club member's car, and I have a rather strange electrical issue.

The car is a bone stock 91+. I swapped engines in the car a few years back and it has been fully maintained.

Here is the background. A year or so ago, his alternator went out, so he bought another one from a local parts house. It may or may not be related, but since then, he has gone through 3 or 4 radiators. THe radiators keep generating leaks. I did not swap his alternator or radiators (other than the first one with the engine), but he has had a local shop do the radiators, and last time, they commented on how the coolant smelled like burned electrical parts. They thought the car had a short or some other electrical issue that was corroding/burning a hole in the radiator and the car had problems with overheating.

The owner got frustrated, so the car has sat for almost a year now, and I am just helping him out. Unfortunately, I do not know where the leaks were being generated in the radiator.

Here is what i have found.

1) His battery was 100% dead. I was able to bring it back to life and it is now holding voltage. It is a 2 year old Spiral cell (Red Top branded for a different company).

2) His new alternator was dead and putting out 0 volts. I took an old used alternator from our parts and put it on his car. I noticed that his new radiator had a very small pulley, so I am inclined to think that is was a SLO alternator, and the smaller pulley made it overspin. I would bet that is why the relatively new alternator is dead.

3) After changing alternators and charging his battery, his charging system seems to function normally, and the car is not overheating (the cooling fan comes on and off as it is supposed to, so I would think the CCRM, temp sensors and fan are all in good condition).

I would bet his overheating problem is related to the bad alternator not putting out the correct voltage (messing up the fan and CCRM), but I have no way of verifying this.

On a normal car, I would say the car is now fine, and he just needs a new alternator of the correct style.

BUT

His comment on the radiators failing worries me. To double check everything, I started looking for stray voltage, floating ground, etc. I am measuring all over the engine and components, and I get a very consistent 0 volts. It seems very constant and well grounded. I measured between the radiator core and the ground terminal and I got -.57 to -.61 volts. I thought it strange that I am getting NEGATIVE voltage. I am actually measuring voltage below the voltage of the negative battery terminal.

I started measuring around to other components, and came up with the same -.6V The only component that measured any odd voltage was the radiator core, and it was relative to everything. The radiator cap actually measured -.26 V and it is totally isolated from everything by the plastic radiator neck??

While I am measuring, I would periodically get 0V from the radiator, and then I would go back, and it was back to -.6V I don't know why it is doing this, and I never saw it change from 0 to -.6 while I was in one place. It was only between moving the probes, and even then, it woudl usually go back to -.6V if I came back to the radiator later. I get the -.6 V with the car running or with the KOEO. I did not check the voltage when the key was off because I went in for dinner.

Since it is negative voltage (don't know where that could come from in the electrical system, and because it seems isolated to the radiator, I am wondering if I am seeing some sort of a dielectric reaction??

What are your thoughts, and what would you recommend I do?

Thanks

- Mike
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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What kind of meter are you using Mike? Is it a digital, does it have adjustable ranges?

The voltage readings are indeed weird. But have you verified continuity of grounds, as well as hot leads?

Im interested to see how this pans out :oogle:
 

shopartsnw

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Cheap digital meter 0-20V range. The -.6V is pretty repeatable. I tried measuring the differential voltages between all the ground points/engine components, and I get 0V between everything except the radiator core.

I am working though checking each of the grounds and the hot, but where would I get negative voltage (below the voltage of the negatve battery terminal).

Baffled in Battle Ground

- Mike
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Sounds to me like there is a faulty ground somewhere, and the component that utilizes such ground is sourcing a ground thru the coolant itself.

Pop the radiator cap with the engine running. I bet you will get a reading.

Id start checking over EVERY single component that touches the coolant or the radiator core. Cooling fans, coolant sensors, etc.
 

SHOZ123

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Bad ground and they need to do a coolant flush afterwards filling only distilled water and antifreeze.
 

93rev2sev

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Clog in the cooling system overpressurizing radiator?

Edit...you can get that kind of voltage from a potato. I would disconnect the battery, remove it, and check for voltage in the same area, if the voltage is still there, then I would assume the chemicals in the radiator are creating a bit of voltage.
 
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shopartsnw

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I think 95% of the problem was the alternator. With the used alternator and a charged battery the problems almost entirely go away, so I am thinking the "new" alternator was bad and causing problems. One problem was low voltage which was causing the CCRM and cooling fan to not work properly, and with that lower voltage, I am sure the compouter was not happy. Just to keep the potato voltage down, I added a small ground to the radiator. All is well with the car now, so we will see if the radiator lasts or corrodes out.

It does have new coolant, so corrosion should not be an issue.

Thanks for the help

- Mike
 

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