EEC read with tweecer...values are erratic...

[shorage]

Hello all, when i got to read the eec with the tweecer, the readings are erratic, as an example....it says that the idle is 15000 rpm and i can hear the fuel pump clicking (very fast) on and off.....almost like a bad contact. I will be reseating the eec and tweecer to confirm.....do i have to removethe battery ground to remove the eec? I know i have to remove the battery for the tweecer to be removed....but i removed the eec and then i added the tweecer to it.

Just need a little advice here.....did i fry my computer? It was working fine for 22 miles, then all of a sudden, it acts up like crazy...when i switch the dial to "off" on the tweecer....the car runs fine....but when i coast down to a stop...it idles for a second then dies....

THen when i enable say position one on the tweecer dial.....it runs like turd and i uploaded the stock JOSH X2J program......

again, it ran fine till recently......


Another question, what did people do to stabalize the eec when the tweecer is attached to it? I kinda just let it sit there......

Any advice....direction.....

thanks in advance guys.....im still awaiting the tweecer FAQ

 

[1slickRED89]

did you select "XJ1" at the bottom of the screen? also the recommended practice is to use packing tape to hold it to the EEC.

 

[AREA 91]

It's X2J. If you had normal readings for 22 miles, than it went nuts, I would suspect a bad connection from the TwEECer module to the computer. I have had to "fart around" with mine in the + several times to get it right! A cardboard shim and packing tape has cured it. I believe with the ALSFB's, Extreme MMT's, +40 cams, etc.... have a severe effect on the computer. Just sitting in the car at idle and watching the dash move up and down was enough for me to make sure the TwEECer was properly secured. Not that your SHO vibrating at an idle is a bad thing.

Bbbrrrrrburmburmbrumpbrumpbrumpbbrrrbrumbrumbrumpbrump! Something like that for those of you that were at the last convention.