dyno results in:

[DavidT]

I will post a pic later (has a/f data):
Max wheel HP: 322
Max wheel torque: 256
HP topped out at 6700 rpms
9 psi @ 7K

Here's the bad:
3rd run, I installed the extension that put the cone filter in the fenderwell. As I hit about 6500 rpms, it started running rough. Let off immediately. On THAT run torque started diving around 5-6 K. I doubt the adjustment caused that... rather something broke???!!!???
As I started home, it was running horrible! Exhaust sounded disgusting, loss of power. After a few miles on the interstate, it seemed to improve.

Also, transmission fluid started leaking as I started my second pull. Why? Does the tranny take stress on a dyno? After crawling underneath, it is dripping off the shifting linkage, also appears to be coming out of the shaft that enters the trans. behind the oil pan...???

What could possibly leak onto the cat. that is closest to the mufflers (unequal length SS hi flow Y). It was smoking...???

Ever since I installed the new belt and idler pulley on the blower, I hear an additional sound coming from the blower. Kinda like the belt pulsating (not sure how else to describe it)

SO do the #'s look good for the amount of boost?
A/F dropped off the scale (somewhere below 10)from 5500-6500 rpms. Running pretty rich there.
Pic. soon to come.

 

[flosho]

You have a gatorback belt, I know sometimes those whistle or make a wierd noise because of the design...

 

[Toolman]

Considering you are running so rich up top, those are not bad numbers. Any idea what happened on the third run? Did it run better later?

 

[DavidT]

Have no idea what happened. I THINK it is ok now... somewhat paranoid... I seemingly get it running pretty good and go destroy something running it on a dyno

 

[Lance Cheney]

I will post a pic later (has a/f data):
Max wheel HP: 322
Max wheel torque: 256
HP topped out at 6700 rpms
9 psi @ 7K

Here's the bad:
3rd run, I installed the extension that put the cone filter in the fenderwell. As I hit about 6500 rpms, it started running rough. Let off immediately. On THAT run torque started diving around 5-6 K. I doubt the adjustment caused that... rather something broke???!!!???
As I started home, it was running horrible! Exhaust sounded disgusting, loss of power. After a few miles on the interstate, it seemed to improve.

Also, transmission fluid started leaking as I started my second pull. Why? Does the tranny take stress on a dyno? After crawling underneath, it is dripping off the shifting linkage, also appears to be coming out of the shaft that enters the trans. behind the oil pan...???

Make sure the secondary bearing is bolted down right (back of the engine). Other than that it sounds like you need a new axle seal. Not sure how much you're losing but you don't want to run the trans dry.

What could possibly leak onto the cat. that is closest to the mufflers (unequal length SS hi flow Y). It was smoking...???

Oil pressure sensor, oil level sensor (maybe, haven't got an unequal length Y-pipe so I'm not sure), antifreeze possibly (a few coolant hoses above that for the heater core).

SO do the #'s look good for the amount of boost?
A/F dropped off the scale (somewhere below 10)from 5500-6500 rpms. Running pretty rich there.
Pic. soon to come.

This a 3.0L or 3.2L? (I thought the other post said 9:0 CR w/3.2L but I don't think you posted that)? 255wtq seems a bit low but it's not out of the question. Can't remember what a low CR 3.2L made without the blower, but it was pretty bad (~180wtq?) vs. a normal CR motor (205+), and 9psi of boost only ups that so much, even at 7k where a typical SHO is running out of steam (130-150wtq at 7k). I have a dyno of a stock 3L with boltons and a 9lb SC is at ~270 wtq, 315whp.

The A/F looks like a typical Sho Shop burn. Very rich for a bit more detonation resistance than tuning for optimal power. I probably wouldn't mess with that right now -- maybe if you had an intercooler you could get it reburned leaner.

-Lance

 

[DavidT]

secondary bearing? What's that?

It is a 3.0 with forged pistons (lowered compression to 9:1)

Also, I am pretty sure it IS coolant. BOTH cats were steaming. When I replaced the Tstat, I noticed mucho Barrs stop pouring out when I drained the coolant, so I was expecting to find some leaks eventually
Please don't tell me heater core... I hear thats a "blankety-blank"

 

[RJ-92]

Take care of that tranny leak soon please. ATF is flamable, and if its dripping on the cat your not going to be happy. I just heard a story this week about a 2001 Pontiac GTX burnt to the ground due to a tranny leak. And a friend of mine had his 1 yr old 2002 GMC 3/4 ton go the way of the smores doe to the same thing... leaky tranny line.

 

[Lance Cheney]

secondary bearing? What's that?

It is a 3.0 with forged pistons (lowered compression to 9:1)

Also, I am pretty sure it IS coolant. BOTH cats were steaming. When I replaced the Tstat, I noticed mucho Barrs stop pouring out when I drained the coolant, so I was expecting to find some leaks eventually
Please don't tell me heater core... I hear thats a "blankety-blank"

Heater core leaks will be inside the car, so I don't think you have to worry about that. You can generally see indications of coolant leaks by looking for dried-up white powdery stuff, but you may not have had enough leak yet for that. It's not a bad idea to just replace all of the hoses and then you just shouldn't have to worry about it for a good long time. Otherwise, if the leak is still there at idle you should be able to track it down.

Luckily tranny fluid leaks from the output shaft aren't real close to the cat assembly, but I would get it taken care of anyway. The bearing I was talking about is the one some people refer to as a 'support' bearing. The passenger's side axle has a straight section, then a bearing, then a section that pivots. That bearing is the one I was talking about.

3L, 9:1: 255 wtq sounds about right to me.

-Lance

 

[DavidT]

thanks for the info.
I looked at the s/c belt, it needed to be tightened down again.
It's only been on the car for a few days. I have retigtened twice for the break in period.
I am hoping that was why it started running rough at the end of the 3rd pull on the dyno...
Does the breakin period EVER end, or will it ALWAYS need to be tightend every so often?

 

[DavidT]

interesting... it started acting up again... just like it dad in the 3rd pull on the dyno... running like a dog. Except this time, the s/c belt felt pretty tight. Had me baffled. Opened the hood while it was idling... had a light show going on at the #3 wire at the coil pack. I took it off and reconnected... all is well. Is this a sign I need spark plug wires? (it didn't really seem loose... but it MUST've been...)

 

[AutoSHO]

For the $75 or so dollars you can get nice plug wires for, I would not hesitate to replace them.

 

[SHO92]

Make sure there is no dust and grime on the coilpack. The static electricity that the dust already has can cause the spark from the coil to arc. Also try adding some dielectric grease to the connection at the coil pack. If that still doesn't work, they try replacing the wires.