Anyone ever had an issue with a driveshaft maybe being out of balance? About to bite the bullet and replace the rear carrier assembly and figured I would do the driveshaft at the same time if it is possible that it may be the reason for the shake. Thanks in advance.
Driveshaft balance?...
- Thread starter Billy VK
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xFallenxCripplex
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How bad of a shake did you rebalance/rotate your tires first?
Every year I change from winter to summer or vise versa I usually fell a little to much vibration so I rebalance the tires then everything is fine . Costco does it for free since I purchased all four there.
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Every year I change from winter to summer or vise versa I usually fell a little to much vibration so I rebalance the tires then everything is fine . Costco does it for free since I purchased all four there.
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Fresh alignment and fresh balance on new tires. The car shakes from about 65 to 80. When I say it shakes, I have gotten out of the car at a rest area to check lugnuts to be sure a wheel isn't falling off. The car was inspected by the local dealer when I got it and they say it is nothing considered excessive. What a shit answer for such a pricey car. I have seen the rearend gear having chipped teeth cause a vibration and have heard of the driveshaft issue. I bought both in hopes that one fixes the issue. I guess we'll see. I put the car up for sale, but if that fixes the issue, the for sale signs are coming off it.
I am also chasing a vibration under acceleration, thought it was the drive shaft but then found a broken internal CV axle boot, and then confirmed corroded/worn internals. Haven't replaced it yet but I'm pretty sure this is it, in my case. Suggest you check that before spending that kind of cash.
I had that all checked as well. My shake is constant whether accelerating or coasting. Surely seems to be a balance issue. So, one time I launched the car in the snow and it dragged ass. Felt like the rears did nothing. Then, digging through some posts, I found others had that issue.... they showed pics of the inside of the rearend housing and it had teeth missing on the gears. I got the driveshaft and the rear carrier assembly complete for 200 bucks from LKQ and it is local for pick up so no shipping. I have a buddy helping with the swap in his shop so it won't be too painful on labor. Fingers crossed it fixes it.
Make sure you "phase" it correctly when you install it.
https://managedmobile.com/driveshaft-phasing-importance/
https://managedmobile.com/driveshaft-phasing-importance/
interesting... thanks for the info.
Johnbigdog
SHO Member
A Ford/Lincoln dealership should have a vibration analyzer to tell you what system and order the vibration is.
You could just pull the driveshaft and go on a test drive to see if the vibration is there or not. Maybe one step before that is to disconect the electrical conector tothe ATC clutch in the front of the rear diff.
You could just pull the driveshaft and go on a test drive to see if the vibration is there or not. Maybe one step before that is to disconect the electrical conector tothe ATC clutch in the front of the rear diff.
Yeah, pulling the connector won't work because the parts continue rotation.
Johnbigdog
SHO Member
Right, my thought is if the clutch is dragging the wind up is amplified with activation. Making the car 2wd is an easy 1st step
Gotcha. Yeah, whether the drivetrain is under stress from acceleration or just coasting along the car still has the vibration. The car made a crazy noise when backing into a spot a couple weeks ago with hard acceleration. I'm guessing it was the resend jumping teeth on the gear. I guess we'll see after Friday because it's all being replaced that morning... Fingers crossed.
6500rpm
Quality Always Shoots Straight
Did you have the rear toe link recall performed yet? If you car is involved it might be a good next step provided parts are available. ZSHO had this posted over at EB, explains the issue really well and could be a possible cause for your phantom. Looseness in the ball socket, not so much the weld.
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It only gets more interesting... Swapped all my wheels with another sho... Shake is almost completely gone.... Have mine checked... No bends no bad tires.... All rebalanced and move the wheels around and almost 75 The percent better. The frustration continues though....
Johnbigdog
SHO Member
You can have balanced tires, but still have a vibration. That's what road force balancing finds. If there is a bad tire or wheel.
You could have a shop match mount the tires first if you want a cost effective rout first.
You could have a shop match mount the tires first if you want a cost effective rout first.
Yeah, I have had road force balance done before and it helps. They match the high spot of the wheel to the low spot of the tire then balance. Great process. I had that done on the last set of tires on the car and it still had the shake. no idea what the scenario is currently on this car but the process I just went through drastically helped.
Johnbigdog
SHO Member
You can have your tires road force balanced, but still have a bad tire or rim. If the force is over 20Lbs there is still a problem, and could be covered by the tire manufacturers warranty if you have the lb read out per tire.
Just knowing where the high spot is (road force) in the tire and wheel is at and then putting that at the 6 o'clock position on the hub with the tire in the air may be enough to reduce the vibration more.
If you have had 2 sets of tires with the same vibration, you may have a damaged rim.
Just knowing where the high spot is (road force) in the tire and wheel is at and then putting that at the 6 o'clock position on the hub with the tire in the air may be enough to reduce the vibration more.
If you have had 2 sets of tires with the same vibration, you may have a damaged rim.
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