disassembly of suspension, for koni...
- Thread starter SHOman24v
- Start date
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Denny
Taurus Homeland
You'll need a nice BIG bar for leverage on the subframe and you'll be able to separate the ball joint from the assembly
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
If you don't have a pickle fork/ball joint separator, you can pry apart the two parts of the pinch joint on the knuckle slightly with a cats paw and that should make it easier to remove. If you have to use the cats paw to pry the ball joint out of the knuckle, be sure to put a piece of wood between it and the LCA first. You could also try to tap it out from the top, but I'd recommend doing so very gently.
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
No one has mentioned the lowr ball joint pinch bolt. Of course, that must come off first. Be careful with the grease boot on the ball joint. They have a tendencey to get damaged when prying gets serious. Let any shop do it and see what I mean.
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
3-foot crowbar, placed per the service manual. worked for me today. One side was a little tight, the 3 lb hammer and brass drift got it broken free so the crowbar could work. I think I bent the crowbar, anyway. Danged salt! squint
New tension strut bushings and new swaybar endlinks (the old ones were only a year old) both tightened up the front suspension and FINALLY fixed my noisy front suspension.
Steve W
New tension strut bushings and new swaybar endlinks (the old ones were only a year old) both tightened up the front suspension and FINALLY fixed my noisy front suspension.
Steve W
rangerj
Active Member
SHOMAN24V,
I figured you needed $.02 more. Look in the factory shop manual for the recommended nuts and bolts that should be replaced, not reused.
For example, the pinch bolt and its nut, the axel nut, and if I remember right the nuts that hold the struts (on top of the strut towers), to name a few. The nuts that are recommended to be replaced are all "lock" type nuts, and are good for one use, and one use only.
When you re-attach the tie rod ends, use new cotter pins, as a safety precaution (cheap insurance). If you are spending that much money on the suspension, why not replace the lower control arms with new ball joints and bushings?
Well thats my $.02 (in 1959 $$$)rangerj
I figured you needed $.02 more. Look in the factory shop manual for the recommended nuts and bolts that should be replaced, not reused.
For example, the pinch bolt and its nut, the axel nut, and if I remember right the nuts that hold the struts (on top of the strut towers), to name a few. The nuts that are recommended to be replaced are all "lock" type nuts, and are good for one use, and one use only.
When you re-attach the tie rod ends, use new cotter pins, as a safety precaution (cheap insurance). If you are spending that much money on the suspension, why not replace the lower control arms with new ball joints and bushings?
Well thats my $.02 (in 1959 $$$)rangerj
RStalveyARFF
too many shos
how do you like the smell of the old strut fluid? Raunchy to say the least eh?
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