Died during acceleration

[sho941076]

Last night while test driving my 90 SHO (which I would venture to say she was finally operating very close to 100%) she died at about 6500~7000 rpm right when I was coming out of 3rd gear. It didn't sputter, just completely shut down. My first inclination was the fuel was out, considering one second its reading 1 mark on the gas gauge, and when it shut down the fuel light came on. I did get it to restart briefly, but it sounded horrible and ultimately I couldn't get more than 200-300 rpm on it before it quit. Put approximately 4 gallons in and primed it multiple times and no go, she may as well be a paper weight. I've had SHO's for a while so my next inclination is the crank sensor, as this is an old car, but to my dismay no water leakage at least to the ***** eye (with flashlight as well) and hours later it still doesn't start even when it is cool. Decided to run codes on it and KOEO I am getting 11 on the immediate code list, and code 18 and 22 on stored codes. Cant run KOER for obvious reasons.
I think its also of note I have been pouring money in this old girl to get her to run properly, and before my test run I was pulling code 11 KOEO and KOER.
Parts that have been changed in the last week, as I was working on a severe power loss issue. So the recent part changes I have done are
New Cam sensor
New TPS
New O2 sensors
New DIS (and yes I did use arctic silver)
new fuel pump and sending unit
New plugs and wires
new air charge sensor
reused BAP sensor from my 94 as the 90's was bad
Before I swapped out the bap there was a significant stutter on the low end of the rpm range, but was resolved with my 94's bap sensor.
It was heartbreaking to have her shut down like that after working so ******* getting her back to where she needs to be. I've searched over the forums to see if anyone else had this specific problem but have not found a similar situation as of yet. Any help to a previous conversation of this nature or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help.

 

[SHOdded]

One is a timing code, and one is (oddly enough) a BAP code. Quoted from the RCM site:

"The BAP sensor measures barometric pressure using a frequency. This gives the PCM (computer) information on engine load. It is used as a barometric sensor for altitude compensation, updating the PCM during key-on engine-off and wide open throttle (WOT) events. The PCM uses BAP for spark advance, EGR flow (if so equipped), and air/fuel ratio."

I'd check the wiring/connections on the BAP sensor. Also check the timing belt, hopefully it hasn't bit the dust. Have you done a front 50K on this SHO?

 

[rubydist]

18 = spout circuit open
22 = BP out of self-test range.

if the bp was bad and you just changed it, and if you were not getting the 18 code previously, I would say there is a good chance you have a wire harness problem or a pcm problem.

sudden engine shutdown as you describe is often due to crank sensor, and if you have not changed the crank sensor recently I would recommend changing it even though you don't see water on it - most of the ones I have seen die had nothing to do with water on them.

 

[sho941076]

Thank you both for the quick responses. I guess I should have been more clear. I had the 22 code before I swapped the BAP sensor from my 94 to my 90 (I am currently rebuilding, albeit slowly, the engine from my 94 so it is going to get all new sensors). I am almost positive I didn't remove it from memory, but to be honest it could be crazy coincidence and went bad on my test run too. I had not previously had a 18 code, and prior to going out I ran a KOER check to see if it was pulling anything and the code came up all clear (11). I am going to step out and take a good look at the timing belt, cause now that I think of it I threw the belt on this same car a couple years ago and it had same result (and honestly I cant believe I didn't think of doing that). The timing belt isn't that old either, but crazier things have happened I guess. Is there a way to shoot the wires on the crank sensor to test it? It seriously is the only one I haven't changed aside from oil lvl and coolant temp.
If it was a pcm issue wouldn't it come up in the diag test? Or is it common that it doesn't?
Thank you both again for the direction.

 

[sho941076]

Timing belt is intact. All the connections to the sensors are good and appear to be in good order, although I didn't do any voltage readings. I don't have a wiring diagram to go by either so I wouldn't know what I am looking for anyway. Hate to just throw parts at it but at this point I don't know what to do. The codes are pretty vague, so I guess I will just try the crank sensor and while I'm there I may as well do the water pump/timing belt and tensioner as well.

 

[Slo-Sho]

Any updates?