rangerj
Active Member
The two most common causes of ATX failure are old age (mileage), and a heavy right foot.
That having been said, I just finished a 95 ATX. The pump would lose it's prime. It started about a year ago and started to happen more often until recently when the trans acted like it was in park or neutral all the time, ie no go.
When I got inside the 10 year old seals were as hard as rocks. The clutch plates and clutch disks were like new, as were all the bearings and gears. I did replace one carrier gear because it had been re-engineered because of failures. I found out that the seals had also been re-engineered (better rubber or "neopreme"). The point here is to get the latest up-dated (improved) parts.
The best and easiest way to get the latest up-dated parts is to get an OEM rebuild or seal kit (Ford/Motorcraft). If you are installing up-rated performance parts, then that is another story. Follow the kit manufacturers instructions and recommendations.
After the trans is removed, and the torque converter has been set in a pan to drain, clean the trans case BEFORE taking anything apart. Engine degreaser and/or "Brake Clean" work well with hot water.
During the rebuild process be CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. Once the trans has been "gutted" you can clean out the inside with Brake Kleen. It will dry without leaving a residue. Do NOT clean the cluch disks if you are going to reuse them (100K + = replace them). As you remove parts label them and keep them in the order in which they came out.
DO NOT mix up the clutch packs. (Note: the low/reverse clutches will usually be a different color(darker) than the other clutch disks. They are usually a different material)
I "zip strip" the clutch packs together so they cannot get mixed up, and will be in the same order as they came out. I also keep the snap rings attached to the packs because they are usually different, ie tapered, flat, wide narrow, etc. DO NOT MIX up the snap rings.
Lastly, watch out for bearings and thrust washers. They must go back in the same place they came out of, and usually have a specific orientation, ie a right way up or down.
If you are neat, clean, and organized, it is easy. You might say it is "automatic" -----PUN INTENDED!
It would also be a good idea to check for a rear main (engine) seal leak while the trans is out. You should also check the drive shaft boots. The drive shaft seals should be part of the rebuild or seal kit.
Because an automatic transmission is hydrolic, the hydrolic fluid is part of the engineering of the trans. Do the research before you use any fluid other than the factory recommended trans fluid. Most of the new transmissions are using a synthetic fluid and the manufacturers are updating or improving the fluids regularly. They usually have a recommendation, for or against, using the newer fluids in the older transmissions.
Does anyone out there have access to Fords TSBs or know if Ford recommends the new fluid for use in the old transmissions? If you are not sure, use what the factory recommends.
OK Bizzy, have at it!
rangerj
That having been said, I just finished a 95 ATX. The pump would lose it's prime. It started about a year ago and started to happen more often until recently when the trans acted like it was in park or neutral all the time, ie no go.
When I got inside the 10 year old seals were as hard as rocks. The clutch plates and clutch disks were like new, as were all the bearings and gears. I did replace one carrier gear because it had been re-engineered because of failures. I found out that the seals had also been re-engineered (better rubber or "neopreme"). The point here is to get the latest up-dated (improved) parts.
The best and easiest way to get the latest up-dated parts is to get an OEM rebuild or seal kit (Ford/Motorcraft). If you are installing up-rated performance parts, then that is another story. Follow the kit manufacturers instructions and recommendations.
After the trans is removed, and the torque converter has been set in a pan to drain, clean the trans case BEFORE taking anything apart. Engine degreaser and/or "Brake Clean" work well with hot water.
During the rebuild process be CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. Once the trans has been "gutted" you can clean out the inside with Brake Kleen. It will dry without leaving a residue. Do NOT clean the cluch disks if you are going to reuse them (100K + = replace them). As you remove parts label them and keep them in the order in which they came out.
DO NOT mix up the clutch packs. (Note: the low/reverse clutches will usually be a different color(darker) than the other clutch disks. They are usually a different material)
I "zip strip" the clutch packs together so they cannot get mixed up, and will be in the same order as they came out. I also keep the snap rings attached to the packs because they are usually different, ie tapered, flat, wide narrow, etc. DO NOT MIX up the snap rings.
Lastly, watch out for bearings and thrust washers. They must go back in the same place they came out of, and usually have a specific orientation, ie a right way up or down.
If you are neat, clean, and organized, it is easy. You might say it is "automatic" -----PUN INTENDED!
It would also be a good idea to check for a rear main (engine) seal leak while the trans is out. You should also check the drive shaft boots. The drive shaft seals should be part of the rebuild or seal kit.
Because an automatic transmission is hydrolic, the hydrolic fluid is part of the engineering of the trans. Do the research before you use any fluid other than the factory recommended trans fluid. Most of the new transmissions are using a synthetic fluid and the manufacturers are updating or improving the fluids regularly. They usually have a recommendation, for or against, using the newer fluids in the older transmissions.
Does anyone out there have access to Fords TSBs or know if Ford recommends the new fluid for use in the old transmissions? If you are not sure, use what the factory recommends.
OK Bizzy, have at it!
rangerj
