Did I do something wrong? Or is this a junk bearing? Video inside...

[Eric VerValin]

Well, I have about 600 miles on this guy, and in the last 50 I could feel something dragging on that side, so I took the wheel off and this is what I found. Any ideas on this and what could cause early failure? Should I bitch at the shop that pressed it in? Or just autozone for their crappy bearing.





Now the only thing that isn't perfect on this guy is that I dont have a washer behind the nut because I haven't come across one yet in my J/Y adventures, but I wouldn't think that not being there would cause that would it?

 

[Eric VerValin]

As you can see, i got some 95 knuckles, and had both done at the same time.. the other is fine. ?

 

[Phoenix]

1-The CV shaft nut is not tight enough.

or

2-The bearing is scraped due to unproper pressing in the knuckle. You need to support the bearing under while pressing in the hub in.

 

[Shoaz]

1-The CV shaft nut is not tight enough.

or

2-The bearing is scraped due to unproper pressing in the knuckle. You need to support the bearing under while pressing in the hub in.

Or both. If the car was driven much with the CV nut not properly torqued (and it wants a LOT of torque) then the bearing may have failed prematurely due to improper preload.

One needs a good 1/2" torque wrench that goes high enough (don't quote me on this, but 180 ft-lbs or something like that, IIRC). I had to buy a second 1/2" torque wrench because my old one only went to 150 ft-lbs.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well, I put them both on with a 1/2'' impact, then just used a 6 foot long peice of pipe on my 1/2'' ratchet and a impact socket. I dont have a torque wrench that gets that high. But you guys think its already toast? My friend who works on semi's was saying there are plenty of bearings that are junk from the factory, but I bet I could get a replacement from AZ since its so new, I'll blame them and get a new one. But from the looks of it its already toast I'm assuming? I'll have to ask him to bring one of his big tq wrenches from work home, and I guess we'll press it out this time. I had it done at a shop the last time, so I can't say if they did it right. The driver side seems ok tho. ? I dunno what to think about it.

 

[93rev2sev]

Alls I know is that A LOT of slop. It musta felt like you were hydroplaning everytime you gave it gas?

 

[Phoenix]

Max torque them (axle nuts) with your 1/2 impact with lots of air. When you see it stops moving , it's time to stop.

So far that's what i'm doing without a big torque wrench handy. 0 problems.

If it still does that wiggling , the bearing is fubared.

Rarely saw those BCA (is it?) that had a fail right off the box. Still possible though.

 

[gmorrell]

I know a whole bunch of "ASE Certified Experts" are going to jump in here after I type this, telling us that I'm full of it, and "that's how they're all done..", but one should never use an impact wrench when servicing bearings, especially not to set preload - it can Brinell (flat spot) the rollers and races.

IIRC, the hub nut torque spec is like 180-200 ft-lbs, isn't it? Can you borrow an appropriate torque wrench from someone?

FWIW, there have been some isolated instances of Taurus aftermarket hub metallurgy being, well, sub-standard, which leads to early bearing failure. Thank the Chinese, and while you're at it, thank them for poisioning our pets, and possibly us as well...

Gary M.

 

[Eric VerValin]

I wouldnt doubt it at all... Here's the bearing with the part number and all. Wouldn't suprise me if its junk.








The bearings were the same part number, but I did get them from different stores, so I would imagine they were ran at different times. (eg.. not the same 'lot')

 

[St Louis SHO]

know a whole bunch of "ASE Certified Experts" are going to jump in here after I type this, telling us that I'm full of it, and "that's how they're all done..", but one should never use an impact wrench when servicing bearings, especially not to set preload - it can Brinell (flat spot) the rollers and races.

<-- ASE and I agree with you...

 

[Devin]

Proper torque is up to 203 according to Chiltons and 175-200 according to Alldata. I personally shoot a little lower than the max and will probably aim for 195.

I dunno about just setting the impact to max and leaving it at that. I would at least have a shop check the torque if you don't have a wrench that goes that high (I don't!).

 

[midnightauto]

I know a whole bunch of "ASE Certified Experts" are going to jump in here after I type this, telling us that I'm full of it, and "that's how they're all done..", but one should never use an impact wrench when servicing bearings, especially not to set preload - it can Brinell (flat spot) the rollers and races.



Gary M.

This is the real world. And in the real world 2 raps with the impact is called warranty torque ask any dealership mechanic on flat rate.

 

[Shoaz]

This is the real world. And in the real world 2 raps with the impact is called warranty torque ask any dealership mechanic on flat rate.

So I think the lesson is that if one wants it done right so that the bearing doesn't fail prematurely, one would do well to catch a Sears 1/2" torque wrench on sale for about $80 (which is close to the cost of ONE bearing that you might save, let alone the time and hassle), and do it one's self.

It's always surprising how much people will spend after the fact to make up for spending a little bit more the first time.

And if you can just borrow a torque wrench, all the better.

 

[Devin]

Such is why one should not take their SHO to a dealership

 

[midnightauto]

If you take it to a dealer they will ask you what's a SHO ford never made those

 

[SHOBlu]

I know a whole bunch of "ASE Certified Experts" are going to jump in here after I type this, telling us that I'm full of it, and "that's how they're all done..", but one should never use an impact wrench when servicing bearings, especially not to set preload - it can Brinell (flat spot) the rollers and races.

IIRC, the hub nut torque spec is like 180-200 ft-lbs, isn't it? Can you borrow an appropriate torque wrench from someone?

FWIW, there have been some isolated instances of Taurus aftermarket hub metallurgy being, well, sub-standard, which leads to early bearing failure. Thank the Chinese, and while you're at it, thank them for poisioning our pets, and possibly us as well...

Gary M.

<-- ASE and I agree with you...

and I'm ASE certified but thats how a lot of so called "pro's" do it for the sake of saving a minute or two :shakehead. Eric, one other question I would ask is did you ever roll the car without the cv joint preloading the bearing? That too could cause a premature failure. :scratches head: I don't know other than what the others posted.........

 

[naval-avi8or]

Where exactly is the play at, hub to bearing or outer race to knuckle.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Nah man, it wasn't rolled anywhere just bolted up, smacked with an impact, lowered down, then hit with my 1/2''. I was out late last night at some family get togethers, and the coffee hasn't hit me yet this morning. I"ll get motivated and get it yanked off the car here this afternoon, and let you all know where the play is for sure naval.

 

[firstgen89sho]

I think that you will be requiring that washer in behind the nut, spreads the torque of the nut out a little more, that could be the problem with the bearing there.

 

[Eric VerValin]

I was trying not to say anything about that.. lol see if anyone rememberd. But yea I think thats where the problem was. It was just as tight as the other side, but the way the torque was spread out on it without the washer, its just on the corners of that nut. I tried stopping at a place I know that has a few sitting around, and going to ask him about taking one off. Are they all the same size? Auto and 5 speedS? both of his parts cars are autos. Mine isn't.