Determine Whether I Need New Plug Wires

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SuperG

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I recently had a misfire and I replaced the spark plugs...misfire gone. Well, I would like to go ahead and figure out how well the plug wires are transfering current.

How do I go about doing that?

For that matter, how do I check the coil pack?

Thanks for the help!
 

Dave Kegel

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The best way would be to measure the resistance of the wires. I did a quick Internet sarc and found this, although I can't vouch for the accuracy:

"Ford calls for 7k ohms per foot for many engines. An old rule of thumb was
6k ohms per foot and no more than 18k ohms."

Dave Kegel
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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true... you can measure the resistance of each wire, and look for consistancy


but the resistance does change when you send all that power through them that the coil pack delivers... so I am unsure of tha accuracy. shrug

kinda like when looking at a car to buy...

there is a difference between starting it up... and driving it off shrug
 

sdpatt

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The plug wires don't usually fail by an increase in their internal resistance, so even a precise measure of that parameter won't tell you if the wires are healthy. They usually fail through the breakdown of the insulation that allows a spark leak to ground before reaching the plug. Improper plugs, plugs with overly large gaps, or poor connections at the plug can exacerbate the insulation weakness.

If your plug wires are more than 6 years or 120,000 miles old, you can be assured that they are not in prime condition. Do yourself and your SHO a favor and use the Motorcraft wires for replacements.

<small>[ April 09, 2003, 08:56 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
 

oh_SHO

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Scott's advise is an excellent guide to go by. I wish I had known that a year ago. I just replaced my 10-year-olds that had 130K and WOW what a difference. It was the best $90 (w/shipping from Ford Parts Network) I've spent all year.
 

Dave Kegel

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Boy, tough crowd today. :)

The question wasn't "How to tell if the wires are bad" it was "how do I figure out how well they're transferring current." Obviously they're bad if your car has a misfire, but I thought he was looking for more information than that.

Dave Kegel
 

Huntervf

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I guess I'm just old school...if the car drops a cylinder and the plugs/wires have been on there for awhile then replace them. If your SHO seems to be running ok stick with the setup you got until something happens. I do understand the question, but in this instance I think the best answer is to just go with what you have unless they've been on there for awhile and you're suspicious that they may be causing an occasional misfire or something to that effect.
 

SuperG

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I have the replacement wires, but I hate to tamper with something that ends up not making a difference. After I installed the new spark plugs, I was really happy with how the engine was running (no more misfires). However, if I pay close attention, there is a slight hesitation, although, very small. So I thought there might be some way to test the wires.

In the meantime, I have slowly been cleaning things, like the IAB, MAF, etc...
 

rangerj

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SuperG, and anybody else,

When you install your spark plugs use a torque wrench. Over-torquing the plugs distorts the gap, which will effect performance and the longevity of the plugs and the wires. rangerj
 

sdpatt

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More importantly, properly torqueing the plugs can prevent you from stripping the threads out of the aluminum heads. That is a very bad thing to do.

Plug wires won't cause a hesitation unless the hesitation is really a misfire. The engine control system is usually the cause of a hesitation problem.
 

SuperG

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OK, speaking of "engine control system," what does that consist of and what do I do to verify it is working properly?
 

rangerj

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SuperG,

Ah, Gary there have been whole books written to answer that question. That having been said, I'll try to give you the Readers Digest version.

The engine is controlled by a micro-processor, a computer, or as Ford referres to it an Electronic Engine Controller.

It controls the DIS (Distributorless Ignition System),and the EFI (electronic Fuel injection). Internal combustion engine basics, you have to have fuel and spark.

The computer is programmed to respond to the information it receives from a number of sensors, for example the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), which tells the computer the degree of "open" the throttle plate is at. The wider the throttle plate is open, the computer tells the injectors to stay open longer to add fuel.

As to how you can test the "SYSTEM". It has a system for self testing. If the computer gets a signal from a sensor that is "out of the expected range" it records a "code". To check the system you "pull the codes".

Keep in mind that the sensors can only communicate with the computer in electrical terms, i.e. volts, ohms, amps and/or fractions thereof. So a code could mean a sensor has failed, or it could indicate a connection or wire is at fault.

A sensor code could mean that the sensor is sending bad information because of a fault elsewhere, e.g. an oxygen sensor is not switching and staying on the lean side due to a vacuum leak.

This is very brief and very basic, but it is the start of your learning process if you want to learn. Do a search on how to access the codes, and the lists of the code numbers, and their meaning. Then try accessing YOUR codes, if any!

Anybody else want to jump in here? thumb rangerj
 

rangerj

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SuperG,

Yes, Codes can be recorded without activating the "Check Engine" light. The failure of certain sensors, or the signal being out of the expected range of certain sensors, will activate the Check Engine light.

The Check Engine light does not mean that the engine is about to self distruct. It means that the vehicle should be serviced as soon as possible, so that the engine can be brought back into permissable emmissions standards.

If I remember correctly, the Idle air control sensor, Throttle Position sensor, Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, Oxygen sensors, Coolant Temperature sensor will trigger the Check Engine light. I am not where I can access my reference material so I am not sure of the aforementioned list.

How about some help here folks? Are these the right sensors? Are there other that will trigger the CE light? rangerj
 

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