Decarbon procedure

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Rockledge

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I've used that procedure a couple of different times on a couple of different engines, minus the water part. I don't think it (the water) is necessary and it's not a part of the original TSB service regarding the Ford 4.0L OHV engine which is referenced in the SHOTimes article. Here's the bulk of the original TSB wording:
Article No: 01-19-7

ENGINE - 4.0L OHV - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION

NOISE - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.0L OHV ENGINE ONLY

FORD:
1990-1997 AEROSTAR
1990-2000 EXPLORER, RANGER

ISSUE
Some vehicles equipped with the 4.0L OHV engine may exhibit an engine noise which may be perceived by the customer as a piston/connecting rod bearing knock. This carbon knock is heard only under load during the drive cycle. Carbon knock is a customer drive duty-cycle phenomenon that cannot be repaired with an engine exchange. This may be caused by carbon build-up within the combustion chamber.

ACTION
Verify condition. If normal diagnostics fail to correct the condition, de-carbon the combustion chamber to help quiet the carbon knock noise. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Use Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner PM-3.

2. Carbon removal:
a. Disconnect canister purge line from throttle body.
b. Attach a vacuum line to the canister purge port.
c. At hot engine idle, allow the engine to ingest 1/2 to 2/3 of a can of Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner. Use caution not to ingest too quickly due to potential hydro-lock issues.
d Shut engine off and allow it to soak for one hour.
e. Start engine, allow engine to ingest the remainder of the Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Gleaner.
f. Remove vacuum line and re-install canister purge line.
g. Road test vehicle at 3500 RPM for 2-3 miles.
h. Repeat above procedure two times for a total of three times.
i. Change oil and filter.

***********
My feeling is that any reputable carburator cleaner product (i.e. Berrymans) will perform as well as or better than the Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner PM-3.

.
 

Racer X

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I've got a can of Seafoam sitting in my garage for this very thing. :thumb:
 

Jaz2099

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Racer X said:
I've got a can of Seafoam sitting in my garage for this very thing. :thumb:
Okay, so what exactly do you do. I did the sea foam thing. Do you do the water thing? Do you change your oil? All I did was suck the seafoam let it sit and drove it until the smoke was gone. I'm thinking the changing oil is just if you do the water thing, right?
 

Off Road SHO

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No, You should change your oil, but I would do it 2 or three more times in the same 24 hr period before changing the oil.

Dip the sucking vacuum hose just far enough into the can of B-12, seaFoam, or whatever cleaner, to suck up a little liquid with a lot of air. You'll feel the hose jerking when you have it just right. Make sure the engine is running at about 2500 rpms also, so that the liquid is atomized properly; otherwise, it tends to condense out and puddle in the low spots of the intake. Take it slow, don't rush to empty the can.

Tom
 

Jaz2099

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Off Road SHO said:
No, You should change your oil, but I would do it 2 or three more times in the same 24 hr period before changing the oil.

Dip the sucking vacuum hose just far enough into the can of B-12, seaFoam, or whatever cleaner, to suck up a little liquid with a lot of air. You'll feel the hose jerking when you have it just right. Make sure the engine is running at about 2500 rpms also, so that the liquid is atomized properly; otherwise, it tends to condense out and puddle in the low spots of the intake. Take it slow, don't rush to empty the can.

Tom
So ok we are talking about doing the whole can here --- 1 pint? Doing it 2-3 for a total of 2-3 pints? Because the seafoam can says do 1/3 of a pint making the 2-3 times you say to do it 1 can not 2-3 cans --- just want to get a clarification. I'm thinking you are meaning 2-3 cans but that seems like a lot to me. Thank You
 

Off Road SHO

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No, A 1 pint can will do 3 or 4 applications. The key is to let it sit and let the chemicals absorb down into the carbon, causing it to swell and come off in all the turbulence. The inside of the exhaust manifold gets absolutely covered with the black crud when you do this so make sure you run the car at operating temperature for a good 20-30 minutes after the last application and then change your oil while it still very warm and the gunk is in suspension.

Tom

BTW, this process is nothing new. My grandfather had technical write-ups from Coulter Caddilac from the 1930's about mixing oil and turpentine and pouring it down the carb to get rid of carbon build-up.
 
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