S
shoebilly
Guest
80 a hole is a standard price for a bore.
Cylinder boring - any idea on cost??
- Thread starter 92ShoOff
- Start date
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ManySHOs
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Just to add to that, make sure the crank and rod journal surfaces are not only in spec and round but make sure the crank looks good too (i.e., no scratches or gouges). I'd have it polished. Technically you can do this yourself with emory cloth (that's what my shop used to clean mine up). Just don't alter the shape of the journals or take too much off! If the crank doesn't look good, use another one. If you do that, make sure that you balance everything. I used a 3.0 crank with 5 matched 3.2 rods and one extra from another 3.2. I absolutely had to get it all balanced if I want the engine to last but I probably would've done the same even if they were all balanced as a set from the factory. My 3.2 is silky smooth and I have no doubt that the balancing has a lot to do with that.
Ian
Ian
ManySHOs
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shoebilly said:
That's a rip off. Most shops around here (South Jersey) charge $120-$150 to bore out a V6.
A "performance" shop may charge a little more but a bore is a bore is a bore. It all depends on the competency of the person and the equipment used. The guy that did most of my 3.2 work (bottom end and heads) is a NAPA machinst and probably the best machinist for miles around. I was really lucky to find him.
Ian
92ShoOff
SHO Member
Thanks again in for providing the great help!! So would this be what you're talking about to install the pistons?? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP-901-9200&N=115&autoview=sku
I've used one of the band style adjustable ring compressors so should I be safe getting the pistons down in the block with that little skill? And what would you recommend for getting the rings on the piston being that I'm using those gapless rings? Anything special involved with those?
So just using the emory cloth a little on the main crank journals would polish them up?? Thanks again!
I've used one of the band style adjustable ring compressors so should I be safe getting the pistons down in the block with that little skill? And what would you recommend for getting the rings on the piston being that I'm using those gapless rings? Anything special involved with those?
So just using the emory cloth a little on the main crank journals would polish them up?? Thanks again!
ManySHOs
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92ShoOff said:
Yah, that's what I was referring to. I never used one but I've heard that they are far superior to the adjustable ones. After I ruined my 3.2 block when I an oil rail ring jumped during assembly. I took begged my machinist to assemble the next block. He also had the same thing happen to him but he only scraped the cylinder instead of cutting a groove in it. He had to disassemble everything and hone out the scrape though! I wish I had used the ARP sleeve the first time as I probably could've avoided these mishaps. If you get it, please let us know how it works!
I didn't install the rings myself. I also had my machinist do it. I'm scared of those fragile thin rings! Emory cloth will work to polish up the journals (main and rod) but double check with your machinst or have him/her do it (or just google "crank polishing" for some DIY info.)
FWIW, I used Hastings rings that I purchased from Russ/RCM automotive.
Ian
SeanMc
NoMoSHO
Total cost for my engine rebuild was $3700.
This included:
Boring to 3.3L
Stage 2 cams (were supposed to be stage 1, but oh darn)
JE HC pistons
Ported and polished heads
This included:
Boring to 3.3L
Stage 2 cams (were supposed to be stage 1, but oh darn)
JE HC pistons
Ported and polished heads
rangerj
Active Member
A good performance machine shop will rough bore the cylinders by machine and then finish the bore by hand. Each cylinder will be finished bored to specification for each piston. The additional labor is what costs more. A bore is not a bore is not a bore! $80 per cylinder is not unreasonable for quality performance boring. You get what you pay for.
I would never ever pour money into a block without having it cleaned, magnafluxed, and measured, including the crank bore, the deck, and the rod bores. Again, a motor that revs in the 7K range MUST be balanced. If you do not do this right the odds are the engine will not last, especially if you want performance.
Compare the cost of doing it right to the cost of a good used motor if budget is a factor. Does it really make sense to spend more on your rebuilt motor than the whole car may be worth?
Yes you can reuse fasteners, but do you really want to risk a catastrophic failure because of a $0.50 nut or bolt? Food for thought.
I would never ever pour money into a block without having it cleaned, magnafluxed, and measured, including the crank bore, the deck, and the rod bores. Again, a motor that revs in the 7K range MUST be balanced. If you do not do this right the odds are the engine will not last, especially if you want performance.
Compare the cost of doing it right to the cost of a good used motor if budget is a factor. Does it really make sense to spend more on your rebuilt motor than the whole car may be worth?
Yes you can reuse fasteners, but do you really want to risk a catastrophic failure because of a $0.50 nut or bolt? Food for thought.
ManySHOs
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rangerj said:
Finish by hand? Are you referring to honing the cylinder walls? I admit that I am fairly new to this but when I shopped around for a machine shop to work on my 3.2, I was under the impression that what you've described is standard practice for most shops.
rangerj said:
I agree, I just think it's unlikely that someone will find the problems that magnafluxing will reveal on an SHO block. It's typically used for finding cracks, wall imperfections/variations, etc, right?
rangerj said:
That was my issue. The only problem is that I didn't know if I had a "good used motor" until it was checked out. I actually found out that I didn't. That's why I am using a 1994 3.0 overbored, a 1990 crank, 5 matched 3.2 rods + pistons and 1 3.2 rod and piston from another motor. My donor motor spun a bearing and had excessive cylinder wall wear.
rangerj said:
Are the rod/main bolts and nuts even available new anymore? I don't know; I've never heard of anyone having an SHO engine fail due to fasteners. It's good insurance but IMO probably not necessary (knock on wood). IIRC, the bolts on this motor aren't TTY (torque to yield) and can be reused.
Ian
ManySHOs
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rangerj said:
Finish by hand? Are you referring to honing the cylinder walls? I admit that I am fairly new to this but when I shopped around for a machine shop to work on my 3.2, I was under the impression that what you've described is standard practice for most shops.
rangerj said:
I agree, I just think it's unlikely that someone will find the problems that magnafluxing will reveal on an SHO block. It's typically used for finding cracks, wall imperfections/variations, etc, right?
rangerj said:
That was my issue. The only problem is that I didn't know if I had a "good used motor" until it was checked out. I actually found out that I didn't. That's why I am using a 1994 3.0 overbored, a 1990 crank, 5 matched 3.2 rods + pistons and 1 3.2 rod and piston from another motor. My donor motor spun a bearing and had excessive cylinder wall wear.
rangerj said:
Are the rod/main bolts and nuts even available new anymore? Even if they were, I know they would be more than 50 cents. I don't know; I've never heard of anyone having an SHO engine fail due to fasteners. It's good insurance but IMO probably not necessary (knock on wood). IIRC, the bolts on this motor aren't TTY (torque to yield) and can be reused.
Ian
ManySHOs
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I also wanted to add; make sure your machinist chamfers the tops of the bores so you don't rip the rings out of the pistons when you try to install them.
Ian
Ian
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